22ft camper into jeep hauler build! Fuller style

marty79

marty79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2013
Location
Newton, NC
Bought a 22ft camper stripped for my trailer. Has dual 3500lb brake axles with 15"rims.
Cut it down to 17ft. (19.5 with tongue).
Did a little dovetail with some 3ft ramps. Added in extra braces since factory was only 4ft center. Gonna leave it open, just add some storage up front for tools & such. Best part its still light enough to move it around unlike the last 18ft car trailers I used for years. Almost done, get lights wired this week and registered!
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I Nearly had you a 28' camper, but the first person that wanted it, has finally got back to pick it up. [Boo!]
BTW, are your 3500# axles, got 4 Lug wheels? Never seen that one!
 
rodney eppes said:
I Nearly had you a 28' camper, but the first person that wanted it, has finally got back to pick it up. [Boo!]
BTW, are your 3500# axles, got 4 Lug wheels? Never seen that one!
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Yeah they're stamped 3500lb on them, pretty good deal I got. I made sure not to get mobile home axle trailer
 
rodney eppes said:
I Nearly had you a 28' camper, but the first person that wanted it, has finally got back to pick it up. [Boo!]
BTW, are your 3500# axles, got 4 Lug wheels? Never seen that one!
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Don't laugh but those 4 bolts is how the wheels unbolt? Haven't even looked into it yet lol
 
Leaving it open?
The plan is to park the 4 tires on the 4 metal pads you added outside the original frame?
 
Ron said:
Leaving it open?
The plan is to park the 4 tires on the 4 metal pads you added outside the original frame?
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Yep. The center of my tires fall right on the frame rails so it works out perfect. Besides those pads are beefier than the frame itself lol
 
Post a vid of the first muddy loading session.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Post a vid of the first muddy loading session.
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Haha thought about that already, prob add some other stuff later on. That's all I had layin around right now.
 
Am I missing something? Or it may be an illusion seems like you would have to much weight in rear of trailer if your straddling the tires!? Wanna see the xj on it bc it may just be the picture... weight distribution would be my #1 priority even before anchor points and paint if it wasn't/isn't...
 
I did forget you shortened it as well...
 
C.Berry said:
Am I missing something? Or it may be an illusion seems like you would have to much weight in rear of trailer if your straddling the tires!? Wanna see the xj on it bc it may just be the picture... weight distribution would be my #1 priority even before anchor points and paint if it wasn't/isn't...
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According to measurements, front of rear tires should be right behind rearmost trailer tire.
And yes this is all in hopes that I don't have to build ramps over the tires of trailer but if so, no biggie. Trailer right now is "self balanced" if you look at the pictures so that turned out pretty good.
 
C.Berry said:
before anchor points and paint if it wasn't/isn't...
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As for anchor points, I can tie it down anywhere in rear since the last crossmember and endpiece are 1/4thick but I put all those anchors down just to have em for whatever lol
 
So let me understand this correct.
There's 2wires coming out of each brake on trailer..so 4 total brakes. One from each is + and one from each is - ?
All the negatives go to trailer ground and all the + go together to the blue wire on big plug?
So which is which? Or does it not matter as long as all the same ones I keep + ??
Thank you but I'm overlooking this wiring diagrams lol and confusing myself
 
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Is this right
 
That image simplifies it I think
 
Since I already connected all the "grounds" in one wire heading to front do I put them to trailer ground or to the white ground on the 7way plug
 
Ground to the frame. In my opinion closer to the axles the better. Less wire to run or get damaged. Essentially everything grounds to frame. Short lead from connector makes it common to truck side. This is then bonded to truck chasis, again preferably close to the rear. Only difference would be a dedicated hot circuit say for a battery or small 12 volt what ever.......but the ground will always be the same.
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marty79 said:
According to measurements, front of rear tires should be right behind rearmost trailer tire.
And yes this is all in hopes that I don't have to build ramps over the tires of trailer but if so, no biggie. Trailer right now is "self balanced" if you look at the pictures so that turned out pretty good.
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If it balances out on its own right now I would strongly recommend getting a toolbox, spare tire and some junk to get some weight up on the front of that trailer (~150-200lbs) or that thing is gonna tow like shit empty.
 
NC-V said:
If it balances out on its own right now I would strongly recommend getting a toolbox, spare tire and some junk to get some weight up on the front of that trailer (~150-200lbs) or that thing is gonna tow like shit empty.
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As soon as I get some funds, there will be toolbox/storage for welder and generator up front so yeah there will be some weight. Thanks
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Yes but I would move the ground to frame and not rely on suspension and related for a conductor.
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Thanks for clearing that up..1 more thing though, does it matter which wires are ground and hot on The brakes as long as they are the same?
 
marty79 said:
Thanks for clearing that up..1 more thing though, does it matter which wires are ground and hot on The brakes as long as they are the same?
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Nope. Doesn't matter even if they aren't the same on each. One ground, one power. Doesn't matter which is which. Although I personally match green/black/darker to ground and lighter/red/blue to power.
 
a_kelley said:
Nope. Doesn't matter even if they aren't the same on each. One ground, one power. Doesn't matter which is which. Although I personally match green/black/darker to ground and lighter/red/blue to power.
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Awesome, thank you very much!!
 
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