22re Cam timing

[Archdukeferdinand]

Believe my 22re Jumped time. Long story. I can see the driver’s side chain guide is gone, so my suspicion is that it’s a jumped tooth or 2 off, didn’t think to check the balancer because I was so pissed at what I found.

With those marks lined up, the notch on the crank pulley is about 15-20* past 0 on the timing marks. Also the valves that should be are loose, the ones that should be tight are tight (for TDC cylinder 1)

With the crank pulley notch at 0, the little mark on the Cam gear is shy of 12 o’clock and the piston doesn’t quite seem at the top of the cylinder. (again, #1). Seeing the drivers guide gone and where the chain has begun to eat into the metal around it, I know the timing cover’s coming off. Just double checking what all should be done while I’m at it. Also wondering on good sources for parts as ENGNBLDR seems to be closed.

 

[BrianGreen]

Been a while since I’ve messed with mine. Make sure you’re at TDC on compression stroke. Rotor should be pointing at #1 cyl plug wire.

LC engineering is a good source too.

 

[Archdukeferdinand]

Distributor looked in the right(ish) place with the crank pulley notch at 0* Checked with a screwdriver and the piston was close to or at the top of the cylinder before I bothered to pull the cover. I think it’s only a tooth or two out.

The long story: Previous owner told me he’d installed metal guides, 2 years ago I had a shop put on a new loaded engnbldr head because the headgasket had blown. I asked them to verify that the guides were metal, when I picked up the truck and asked, they told me “the timing was fine” - not what I asked. When I pressed them about the upgraded guides they told me they had checked and they were metal. Both of them straight lied to me so here I am doing this in a poorly lit, 30 degree shop. The kicker is I had the engnbldr timing stuff too- but took the shop’s word it was unnecessary.

I can see where the driver’s side guide is gone and there’s some chain scars on the head so I’m fairly certain I’m on the right track. #1 TDC by the cam mark seems about 15-20 degrees past 0 on the crank pulley. Appreciate the response.

 

[RatLabGuy]

First, remember to pull the oil pan and look at what goodies are in there. If you're lucky you'll find all the timing chain parts, and you can piece it together and what it was.
OK, so lets assume the guide has come off - that also means that here's extra slop in the crank-cam timing. That could explain the odd timing you have here. It's been quite awhile since I've dealt with this, and I can't remember exactly how much the tensioner pushes the cam timing "forward" 9if that's the right term) but it could be as much as 5 deg or so.
So the point is the timing may be fine. Keep in mind its really hard for the chain to jump a tooth, even with the guide gone. The distance between the cam and crank never changes, so the only real opportunity might be at the moment the guide lets go and it starts flopping around. Also there's not that many teeth on the sprocket so each one is something like 5 deg - so if its off by a tooth the performance will be way off. I'd think it would be super obvious when it was running that something was seriously wrong, not just the "marbles in the timing cover" noise.

Luckily if you follow 4Crawler's guide you can do the whole thing in a Saturday if you're efficient.

 

[RatLabGuy]

OOOH - just hit me - when you're turning the engine the right way - which side of the cam sprocket has the slack? I *think* It should be driver's side where the tensioner is. IF it's jumped a tooth then it will be slack on the wrong side.

 

[Archdukeferdinand]

Yeah the performance was way off, bad power loss and slow rev issues. Turned out to have jumped a tooth. I tore most of it down today, just waiting on some parts (nicer weather wouldn’t hurt either).

It started during a rough, cold startup at 15 or so degrees (F). Not sure if there was some extra slack and the chain broke the guide due to the cold or what but the truck drove home fine the night before. Heard a bit of a rattle on startup but then it mostly went away and the truck just ran like shit. I didn’t want to believe it was timing because a shop told me the metal guides had been installed and chain/tensioner were fine just 11,000 miles ago.

But we all know where wishful diagnostics get you. Thanks for the replies!

 

[RatLabGuy]

So was it in fact a plastic guide?
IMO, having to go into the pan to fetch the pieces is the worst part, b/c of al the crap you have to move to do it. A lot of guys just leave them in there lol.

 

[Archdukeferdinand]

Yeah sure was. There’s still some of it bolted behind the gear. Luckily the diff bolts were well soaked from a leaky rear half moon (courtesy of the same shop) so everything broke free pretty easily getting to the pan. Bit of a pain but I couldn’t stand to leave the pieces in there.

 

[Archdukeferdinand]

Finally got to tearing the rest down and getting the diff out.

Two teeth smashed off the crank gear

All the trash I pulled out of the oil pan.