3 link or 4 link...REAR

fordtrucknut

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 16, 2012
Location
bedford va
So I know this can be debated all day and night so lets have at it..I am getting ready to start a fresh build, very minimal street use, mainly will just be driven to and from the trail.
Vehicle will be a 98 2 door explorer, shooting for 108-110" wheel base 5.0 435/doubler/ built 44 front and built 9 rear.
Definetly going to run 3 link front with 5.5" EB coils (for now)
Was planning on going 3 link rear with air shocks, but a couple people are suggesting do a 4 link rear due to a rear 3 link wandering around a lot
So I guess mainly what I want to here is who IS running a 3 link rear? and how does it do?
 
First question is what are you calling a 3 link.

If its traditional with panhard it shouldnt walk around.

If there isnt anything in the way of running a 4 link, thats what id do. Same material cost really. But either should work fine.

Sent via telegraph
 
Yea when you say three link do you mean 3 parallel bars and a panhard bar or do you mean 2 lowers and a Y shaped upper with one pivot on the axle?
A traditional 3 link with a panhard bar is not a good idea if you have a 3 link in the front. With the front panhard from drivers frame rail to passenger side of axle to match the drag link and rear opposite you'll get "yaw" when you hit bumps..... pretty sketchy to drive. With both pointed the same way it'll do even weirder stuff. Do yourself a favor and 4 link the rear. If it's built right neither a 3 or 4 link will wander around.
 
yes, traditional 3 link with panhard bar, I have NEVER done a build anywhere near this level, I have done axle swaps and stuff but to straight up design my own link set up, never!
Is there really that much math involved in figuring out a 4 link?
0nly thing I can think of as far as being in the way would be the gas tank, I would like to keep it if possible and it mounts up inside the driver frame rail so that automatically becomes an issue with the upper link bars for a 4 link.
I really wanna get this thing right the first time and move on to the next project.
 
ok so sounds like gas tank will be coming out ...again! lol
As far as which style 3 link, its still open for debate..honestly.
So how complicated is it to set up a 4 link?
 
Honestly there's a lot to getting it right. To say that you want to build it yourself and get it right the first time is almost impossible. I've done probably 50 rear 4 links on 8-10 different types of vehicles. I still have things I want to change on every build I do. There are sooo many variables that need to be taken into account. The best advice I can give you is to look at lots of pictures. Search for other explorers and see how guys are doing it. Pay close attention to where they mount the links and how they feel about it after they've driven it some. Take it in, you'll learn more than you can imagine. Don't get caught up in trying to have crap loads of flex. Flex doesn't mean crap if you can't use it.
 
yea, there again I have only found 2 truly built,linked 2 door explorers. But yes I am trying to read read and read, the explorer wont even be in the garage for a few more months.
thanks, keep the advice coming, im gonna need it!
 
If you decide to adapt a Clayton's type product to your frame let us know, we will be happy to take care of you on any Clayton's parts you need.
 
4-link rear
 
OK thanks guys, I already ordered the joints from Barnes, for a 3 link ..not a big deal ill just order more lol and I already have the tube.
on a side note what is the recommended size joint to use on the the panhard bar for the 3 link ( front )
 
Not meaning to thread hijack, but what are you guy's opinion on a wishbone or a Y upper link? I think someone mentioned it above. Just curious because I'm learning all this stuff too.
 
Y shaped upper links are okay I suppose. They need to be super strong especially on something that goes fast. There is really no benifit to it that I can think of other than saving the cost of a joint and bung, but what you save there you've gotta turn around and spend on extra material to beef up the whole unit. A Y link will make the axle track 100% straight up and down. The biggest mistake I see when guys make their Y links is that they angle the joints at the frame. The joints really need to be mounted so that the bolts are perpendicular to the frame not angled 20-25 deg. like upper 4 link bars would be.
 
AHh I see what you mean by angling the joints. The motion at those joints would be similiar to those uppers, right? Also, I can see where you would spend just as much money beefing up a Y link as you would doing a 4 link. Thanks for the info!
 
I used the calculator from TRIAGED on the PirateBB. I read a lot about 4 links and used his Excel Calculator as a sanity check.
 
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