3 link set up

madJeepJ10

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2009
Location
Marion
ok yall will probably think i am crazy but that y i want your input. i am wanting to do a 3/4 link on my xj with the factory arms just cutting them in half and making them longer and then boxing them in with thick still on the bottom i have someone with fab skills and welding skills but i would like to have yall ideal. i figer since i have a bunch of them laying around and dont have the money y not try. and its just an off road rig no pavment thank you for input.
 
Don't build a Cherokee. Otherwise sounds legit
 
lol its a Comanche and its not all stock it has a 4.0 aw4 then its got dana 300 transfercase then dana 44s out of a fullsize jeep with 5.13 locked
 
jscrayto said:
@John Fuller
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ha ha ha!! yes that would be me. MadJeepJ10 it is very doable since (as referenced here) I have done this for years and years problem free even on the highway speeds of 50+ so yes you can do it. You can even (for trail rig only) just combine 2 sets for lowers and uppers and just go with that cause if you cut them just right, they overlap almost equal length and become plenty strong. I know i'll get picked on for this (as i have for years here) but hey, I have become a "master" at cheap builds/ghetto builds (LOL) however they worked fine for me on and off the street. I did a 10" lift long time ago with combined arms uppers and lowers and drove for 2 years before i blew it up and hit I540 beltline all the time on 36s no problems...just weld them up good and cut them just right and they overlap plenty. if you want to get fancy cheap (i think there's such a thing!!!lol) cut each one as long as possible and add small C-channel down below and up top to make long arms. I've done that and nothing wrong with that either. pretty much whatever you think of doing it will work as long as they are welded properly and overlap at least good 4"-5".
 
thanks guys so then that saves me from having to buy johnny joints front and rear
 
sure man. i know what's it like to have X amount of money for a build and when you start to lay everything out on paper....X doesn't go very far so you have to pick what's more important that can't be "fabbed" and what can. good luck with your build.
 
madJeepJ10 said:
thanks guys so then that saves me from having to buy johnny joints front and rear
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find you a cheap good set of JK upper and lower arms...they are great stock replacement and heavy enough to cut and lengthen into durable enough long arms or use them as they are for short arms...either way they are a real good cheap but strong upgrade too
 
hey jody you know jake he will not let me do anything dangerous like that thank you that important tip and i promise when its done it will be guber strong with all the thick still we got around here
 
Just look them up online they sell them for samurais I had some on mine they work good on low power rigs it'd basically just 2 shackles bolted together
 
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"Revolvers" were also popular a few years back... provided additional droop/flex (ramp champs), but unloaded & caused several undesired issues real-world
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And similarly "Z-box"
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:lol:
 
on the double shackle dose the leaf have to be longer or can it be stock leafs
 
madJeepJ10 said:
on the double shackle dose the leaf have to be longer or can it be stock leafs
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The zuk guys do "missing links" to accommodate a longer spring. The "revolver shackle" were commonly used with stock springs.
 
Caver Dave said:
"Revolvers" were also popular a few years back... provided additional droop/flex (ramp champs), but unloaded & caused several undesired issues real-world
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I have been running Revolvers for over a decade with zero of the issues that people claim to have with them. The additional travel keeps tires on the ground, which increases traction, which helps the truck get to where it needs to go. Explain to me how that is an issue?

Z-boxes, on the other hand, are a really BAD idea. You have to have at least one solid mounting point for a leaf spring, and those make the springs all sloppy under a vehicle.
 
OnlyOneDR said:
I have been running Revolvers for over a decade with zero of the issues that people claim to have with them. The additional travel keeps tires on the ground, which increases traction, which helps the truck get to where it needs to go. Explain to me how that is an issue?

Z-boxes, on the other hand, are a really BAD idea. You have to have at least one solid mounting point for a leaf spring, and those make the springs all sloppy under a vehicle.
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You may not have experienced it, but revolvers can unload on a steep downhill. It could be enough to send you out of control, or just enough to make you feel that way. They work the same when the suspension wants to droop, no matter if it during articulation when the tire drops out, or when you drive off something and the whole rear drops out.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
You may not have experienced it, but revolvers can unload on a steep downhill. It could be enough to send you out of control, or just enough to make you feel that way. They work the same when the suspension wants to droop, no matter if it during articulation when the tire drops out, or when you drive off something and the whole rear drops out.
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Not buying it. Physics. If you are going down a slope that steep you are already on the verge of tipping over. Slip vs. tip: basic Statics stuff from engineering school. The only thing that the Revolvers would allow for is that the rear of the vehicle can angle up closer to vertical before the tires/axle (and it's associated mass) pass the tipping point. They do not randomly open up as gravity acts to keep them closed until there is not enough gravitational force to do so.
 
The problem I've seen with revolver shackles is that they work TO good. Massive flex requires a long slip driveshaft that'll handle crazy angles that people running leaves tend to overlook. They will unload downhill which is why I never owned any. A good quality correctly set up leaf pack will do the job.
 
OnlyOneDR said:
Not buying it. Physics. If you are going down a slope that steep you are already on the verge of tipping over. Slip vs. tip: basic Statics stuff from engineering school. The only thing that the Revolvers would allow for is that the rear of the vehicle can angle up closer to vertical before the tires/axle (and it's associated mass) pass the tipping point. They do not randomly open up as gravity acts to keep them closed until there is not enough gravitational force to do so.
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You are correct, but COG plays a big part in this. If you are going off a steep slope in a vehicle with a high COG, that mass and its inertia are trying to continue the motion. That mixed with the force in the rear springs are causing the rear suspension to move towards is equilibrium/neutral position. And since the sprung mass has a lower force (gravity) against that motion, it could cause the suspension to travel until it encounters the opposing force (gravity) keeping the unsprung mass on the ground.

The only difference in this situation between a standard shackle and a revolver, the revolver allows more suspension travel.

Now if your COG is low and/or far forward & have soft rear springs, the effects might be minimal on everything but the steepest slopes.

In the end, most of it has to do with "driver feel" in the seat. The extra amount of travel could cause the COG past the tipping point, or could just feel unerving to the driver.
 
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