3-link track bar question, and many more!

strange1

strange1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2005
Location
Elkin
Does the track bar need to be parallel with the axle tube, or can I push the frame side bracket forward for diff clearance?
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It’s pretty typical to off set the track bar to clear the diff. It just need to be parallel with the drag link.
 
This , the most important part is the geometry with the drag link. if they are on much different angles it begs for problems
 
They don't worky so good if the pair make an "x" either........saw that before.

Another handy bit is the make them as close as you can identical in length from "pivoty" place to "pivoty" place. Both moving in the same plane and arc ratio is perfection.
 
DonYukon said:
you should have ZERO issues with those angles. looks good
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Except the track-bar hitting the diff and the oil-pan.... hopefully a paychecks worth of bumpstops will help.
 
From the last photo I seen the bars well forward of the diff
 
NickMaul said:
How far are you from full bump in that pic?
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That pic is my projected ride height, there will probably not be more than 4” up travel. The axle has pushed forward a bit more since that first pic.
 
Now that we have that settled, what size tube do the guru’s recommend for the upper link? I bought a tube/heim kit from @Barnes 4wd that came with 2x.250 for both the lowers and the upper. As you can see there’s not a lot of room for the upper link. Can I get away with 1.5”x something for the upper link?
83E8F7D3-77D0-42A1-B608-6B2FBDB947FF.jpeg
 
If you need the space it will be fine with 1.5” .250 wall for the upper. But you need to make darn good and sure that you get the upper link frame bracket welded in very good. Add a gusset if possible. There are extreme forces applied to it. I was recently wheeling with a buddy and his upper link mount let go due to a bad weld. That was on a Thursday evening in Harlan. Wiped out the front coilovers, his weekend was done for.
 
strange1 said:
Now that we have that settled, what size tube do the guru’s recommend for the upper link? I bought a tube/heim kit from @Barnes 4wd that came with 2x.250 for both the lowers and the upper. As you can see there’s not a lot of room for the upper link. Can I get away with 1.5”x something for the upper link?View attachment 342107
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Looks like plenty of room on the driver's side, could you do a low profile truss and move it over?
 
hurt4x4 said:
Looks like plenty of room on the driver's side, could you do a low profile truss and move it over?
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I’m trying to stay fairly low. At full bump I can barely squeeze my hand between the diff and the oil pan.
 
strange1 said:
Now that we have that settled, what size tube do the guru’s recommend for the upper link? I bought a tube/heim kit from @Barnes 4wd that came with 2x.250 for both the lowers and the upper. As you can see there’s not a lot of room for the upper link. Can I get away with 1.5”x something for the upper link?View attachment 342107
Click to expand...

You could cut and plate the frame for more clearance and "massage" the exhaust.

As everyone said, 1.5x.250 will be fine, the mounts are usually the issue.
 
So it seems that 1.5 x .250 wall it is. But now the question is do I tap it for 1-1/4 heims (I’ve already got the heims, but will have to buy both RH and LH taps and pay someone to put it on a lathe? Or do I use a 3/4 heim and weld in tube adapter (much cheaper in the end)?
D7FAB754-7EE6-48CA-8FF2-1EE02DA91714.jpeg


that track bar is ugly, but just barely clears both the diff and the oil pan. I’m still not satisfied that it is the best solution.
202F3345-95DF-4A2E-BAC7-D60A44E33B08.jpeg
 
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strange1 said:
So it seems that 1.5 x .250 wall it is. But now the question is do I tap it for 1-1/4 heims (I’ve already got the heims, but will have to buy both RH and LH taps and pay someone to put it on a lathe? Or do I use a smaller heim and weld in tube adapter (probably a little cheaper in the end)? View attachment 342330

that track bar is ugly, but just barely clears both the diff and the oil pan. I’m still not satisfied that it is the best solution. View attachment 342331
Click to expand...
My vote would be tapping for 1.25 heim, but I'd say either option would be pretty close as far as strength. Track bar looks pretty similar to what I had to do on my Tacoma.
20191116_172009.jpg
 
strange1 said:
So it seems that 1.5 x .250 wall it is. But now the question is do I tap it for 1-1/4 heims (I’ve already got the heims, but will have to buy both RH and LH taps and pay someone to put it on a lathe? Or do I use a 3/4 heim and weld in tube adapter (much cheaper in the end)? View attachment 342330

that track bar is ugly, but just barely clears both the diff and the oil pan. I’m still not satisfied that it is the best solution. View attachment 342331
Click to expand...
Some guys with lathes already have 1-1/4" RH and LH taps ;)
 
jeepinmatt said:
Some guys with lathes already have 1-1/4" RH and LH taps ;)
Click to expand...
Do you know of anyone convenient to I77 between north Charlotte and Elkin?
 
My plastic angle finder sitting on top of a 35 year old, finger tight, ball joint isn’t the most scientific method; but it looks like I may have gotten lucky.

Full bump
3796D98C-B429-4959-99B7-6F1A5E3C93AA.jpeg


Ride height
2C69502D-50E0-4D99-97DA-4278493C9A98.jpeg


Full droop
24ACE1B6-DE4A-48FE-9ED3-95421237AD40.jpeg


full bump/steering straight
4EEF19B5-59AF-4B0D-826A-66D19D47DD41.jpeg


and full lock turning left, the reason I can’t push my track bar away from the diff. It’s hard to see how close the tie rod is because my phone focused on the TRE. I’ll probably end up having to limit the drivers side bump to about an inch lower than the passenger side, but I doubt if anyone would ever notice it I don’t point that out.
D7F2C73C-045D-407C-BA4B-93D092CC56C9.jpeg
 
hurt4x4 said:
My vote would be tapping for 1.25 heim, but I'd say either option would be pretty close as far as strength. Track bar looks pretty similar to what I had to do on my Tacoma.
Click to expand...

Do you have a bushing on one end, or heims on both? If heims, do you have trouble with the bar ‘rolling’ forward or back on the heims and causing interference?
 
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