3 speed stack vs doubler vs range box

Van-go

Van-go

Not an old man
Joined
Dec 11, 2014
Location
Greensboro
This set up is going in a stretched YJ 117 wheel base with a chevy 5.3.
I am running an SM465 tranny. At the moment it has an Advanced adapter on it for mounting it to a 23 spline case such as atlas, 300, 231, etc...
It has a 10 spline output with a 23 spline spud shaft (spud shaft splines are a little twisted)
This adapter will allow me to bolt the stak, or the range box up no problem.
I will just need to Change the tranny output to a shortened 32 spline output.

I am trying to decide between these 3 options.

1. Stak 3 speed 32 spline input with 1350 yokes front and rear.

2. NWF Eco range box with 241 internals (32 spline input and 2.72 low range) this will have a Ford 205 bolted to it.(already have the 205 laying around)

3. 10 spline input Chevy 203/Ford 205 doubler. (Have the 205)

I am running an SM465 tranny. At the moment it has an Advanced adapter on it for mounting it to a 23 spline case such as atlas, 300, 231, etc...
It has a 10 spline output with a 23 spline spud shaft (spud shaft splines are a little twisted)
This adapter will allow me to bolt the stak, or the range box up no problem.
I will just need to

My buddy has a 3 speed stack with 1:1, 2:1, & 3.75:1 ($1300) includes air shifters but I’ll probably sell them...
I would have to change the output shaft in my transmission ($300) to run the stak. But otherwise it bolts up.

Range box will give me 1:1, 2:1, 2.72:1, and 5.44 if math serves me well.
Cost will be about $900 with no shifters
I will need to change tranny output still $300

203/205 is for sale on Facebook and will be $1000 shipped to me for the adapter from tranny to 203, the 203, and the ord adapter from a chevy 203 to a Ford 205. Picture is below.

5D7D874F-D4A6-4F7F-9AE9-F225C083A0C0.jpeg



ground clearance, packaging under jeep, cost, strength, and weight are all factors. Somewhat in that order.

They should all be plenty strong.
 
Option #2
 
I'm with @drkelly, option 2.

I ran a Klune/205 combo (nearly identical to NWF/205) in a YJ back in the day. That was my favorite transfer case combo that I ever had. Multiple gear reduction options and very strong. I did have to hack my floorboard a bit to tuck the 205 above the frame rails.
 
I like option 2
I'm going to do the same combo behind my Aw4 this winter. The 205 is tough, cheap, easy to twin stick.
 
GONOVRIT said:
You’re running a a manual trans with a 947:1 1st gear. Why not just a stock 205? It’s been done many times. Have you ever wheeled the combo you have?
Click to expand...
It was in the bronco I parted out. I drove it around a little on 38’s
I will be running 4.10’s in my axles cause they were already 4.10 and if I break a gear, it’s cheap and easy to find.

It wasn’t quite low enough.
 
Jody Treadway said:
I'm with @drkelly, option 2.

I ran a Klune/205 combo (nearly identical to NWF/205) in a YJ back in the day. That was my favorite transfer case combo that I ever had. Multiple gear reduction options and very strong. I did have to hack my floorboard a bit to tuck the 205 above the frame rails.
Click to expand...
I’m planning on hacking it up anyway lol
 
I plan on leaving my 4.10s as well
 
I run 203/205. It's Damn strong, one of few things I haven't managed to break yet, but they're HUGE. The height of the 203 makes it a pain too get a flat belly in yj and keep drive line angles accepable.

I'd go option #2 but with nwf fab magumn box instead of the ecobox That way can use 2.72:1 without fear of breaking the mid shaft.
 
I'd go option 2, but like 71chevy I'd prefer the Titan or Magnum instead of the Eco.

71chevytruckguy said:
I run 203/205. It's Damn strong, one of few things I haven't managed to break yet, but they're HUGE. The height of the 203 makes it a pain too get a flat belly in yj and keep drive line angles accepable.

I'd go option #2 but with nwf fab magumn box instead of the ecobox That way can use 2.72:1 without fear of breaking the mid shaft.
Click to expand...

NWF has the Titan, ORD has the Magnum. Both replace the input shaft of the 205, and I've heard great reviews of both of them. Definitely more expensive, but for me it I feel it would be worth it. BlackBox-i NP205 Titan Series Magnum Box

ckruzer said:
stak cases are still for sale?
Click to expand...

Trail Worthy Fab bought the rights to the the stak, or something like that, and now produce two and three speed Hero cases. Trail Worthy Fab Transfer Case

Duane
 
I’ve still got the 203 and triple stick shifters for it to make the 203/205 doubler for free for you. You’d still need the adapter for the 203 to 205. And change the input gear but you can find them on eBay for around a 100.

Stak cases are out of business so if you brake something you might have a hard time find the parts. Jody talked me out of a stak case for that reason.


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Loganwayne said:
I’ve still got the 203 and triple stick shifters for it to make the 203/205 doubler for free for you. You’d still need the adapter for the 203 to 205. And change the input gear but you can find them on eBay for around a 100.

Stak cases are out of business so if you brake something you might have a hard time find the parts. Jody talked me out of a stak case for that reason.


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Click to expand...
I’ll still take you up on the offer. I will use it down the road if I don’t use it for this.

I guess I shouldn’t go the stak route...
it was going to make the shortest front driveline angle for me. That was a big plus for me, but I’ll make it work.
 
I run a 4 speed Atlas, behind a Turbo 350, only issues I have had is I have broke a couple yokes.
That said, and in what I have saw working, and mind you, working hard, If I had to do it over, I'd go with the 203/205 set up. I have only seen one break and that was an intermediate shaft that had been welded together.
I'd also recommend a third option, go back with an auto. I think you'd be hard pressed to find anyone that has went from a manual trans, to auto, that wanted to go back to a manual.
 
Van-go said:
I’ll still take you up on the offer. I will use it down the road if I don’t use it for this.

I guess I shouldn’t go the stak route...
it was going to make the shortest front driveline angle for me. That was a big plus for me, but I’ll make it work.
Click to expand...

Don’t matter to me if you don’t use it. I’m just gonna junk it. But it would be the cheapest to get done right now, and up grade it later if you don’t like it.


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Auto for sure. Being in a super shitty spot and having to dump the clutch is scary :handed:
 
I’m building a similar drivetrain for my k5 4 speed plus a doubler/range box. It’s got a 10spline 465/205 combo now and that with 4.10s wont crawl well (53:1). I’ve got a 32 spline sm465 but those are kinda long. But I’ve considered just going through another sm465 to put a supershort 32 spline output and light rebuild/freshen up. I had though about just even putting a 203/205 behind it using a 10 spline input on the 203. But honestly I like the gear splits of the range box before the 205. With a 4 speed you can easily run those 4.10s but have as low as a 143:1 crawl ratio plus you’ve got 3 other gears in double low. With the NWF or ORD integrated input shafts/setups you can just run the range box without the 205. With 203/205s you don’t get any benefit running either by itself. With the integrated input shaft it only adds 5 1/2-6” of drivetrain length also it’s just a tighter package. With my build that’s a little more important than your 117 wheelbase. But I debated this for the last 2 years almost, because I had a buddy with a 203 he was gonna give me.

I vote option 2 with the integrated input for more capabilities which translates into you enjoying your rig more.


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203/205 is not much longer that a stock chain driven t case but they are heavy. They are also pretty damn bullet proof. The benefit of a stak or atles is they are 8" or so shorter than the doubler. A 3 speed case also gives you another option where a 203/5 is only 2:1 or 4:1. Not that you really "need" another option but still.

I would say go with what makes sense for the drive lines... None of those options are bad tho.
 
BigGreenMonster said:
203/205 is not much longer that a stock chain driven t case but they are heavy. They are also pretty damn bullet proof. The benefit of a stak or atles is they are 8" or so shorter than the doubler. A 3 speed case also gives you another option where a 203/5 is only 2:1 or 4:1. Not that you really "need" another option but still.

I would say go with what makes sense for the drive lines... None of those options are bad tho.
Click to expand...

That’s pretty cool. How much longer tho? Isn’t the more weight you can get to be in powertrain in lower, the lower the cog? So could a doubler offset a lot of Cage work etc?

Intrguing to say the least. Gunna go look up some recipes. Curious about the costs of one properly built.
 
BigGreenMonster said:
203/205 is not much longer that a stock chain driven t case but they are heavy. They are also pretty damn bullet proof. The benefit of a stak or atles is they are 8" or so shorter than the doubler. A 3 speed case also gives you another option where a 203/5 is only 2:1 or 4:1. Not that you really "need" another option but still.

I would say go with what makes sense for the drive lines... None of those options are bad tho.
Click to expand...

Technically 203/205 setup is a 3spd, 1:1, 2:1, 4:1. Just different ratio options vs a 3spd stak/hero.

GONOVRIT said:
You’re running a a manual trans with a 947:1 1st gear. Why not just a stock 205? It’s been done many times. Have you ever wheeled the combo you have?
Click to expand...

This would be my option, and likely the cheapest. stock 205 alone and gear the axles. If you are breaking R&P, you likely arent going to want to throw a cheap used set of gears back in the axle.
 
ckruzer said:
That’s pretty cool. How much longer tho? Isn’t the more weight you can get to be in powertrain in lower, the lower the cog? So could a doubler offset a lot of Cage work etc?

Intrguing to say the least. Gunna go look up some recipes. Curious about the costs of one properly built.
Click to expand...

I am sure someone has a doubler they can access relatively quick. If not I can try am measure mine. I do not know how much they weigh... If I has to guess I would say it is 250-300#. They are stout.

I have had mine for a long time so IDK what the adapters cost now but I think I have less than 2k in mine. ORD doubler, shift rails and triple stick was 11-1200... 200 or so for the 205. The 203 was free 3 or 400 for rebuild kits. I have no idea what an atlas cost... Probably a bunch.
 
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