360 rebuild

jeepeater2003

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
raleigh
rebuilding my 360 and wondering what would get me in the 300 hp range and for how much

i know mopar is more expensive than chevy to build but its what i got.

should i just get a rebuild kit and maybe a more radical cam and a few other little things like intake manifold, headers...
also what should i do to the head for cheap power while its at the machine shop?

its a carb as well.

tyler
 
In my experience, 360's don't need a lot to make power. I do lean towards the intake, carb and headers. Maybe a HEI distributor conversion.
 
whats alot of power to you though. like 250 hp?
 
I don't wanna seem like an A$$ or anything, but your distributor IS at the back of the engine, correct?
 
You talking AMC, Mopar, Ford? I guess AMC from your sig, if it's an AMC be sure and do the little oil mod for the frnt of the engine.
 
yeah, that's why I asked about the distributor. Mopar small block distributor is at the back, and AMC V8s have the distributor at the front.
 
the distributor is at the front.

what exactly do you mean "the little oil mod"

tyler
 
AMV V8's have a front oiling problem that you can mod to correct and theres also another oiling problem you could fix, never done it but i will be doin it to my 401

get a 3 angle valve grind on the heads for more air flow it doesnt cost much and is well worth it
 
head work is what will net you the most. Maybe cutting the block and heads both to gain more compression. The right combination of valves, springs, cam, and pistons,...300hp is easy.
 
Its not hard to get 300 hp from an amc 360. You dont necesarily need the 'oil mod'. The oil mod, in the valley, you drill/tap into the oil pump gulley and run a line to feed additional oil to the rear mains. This is only effective on cold starts and at high rpms, not needed for rockcrawling. Unless you drop some serious coin to run high rpms, you dont need the oil mod. The best oil mod you can do for a 360 is drill out the mains. The next oil concern would be your oil filter adaptor - the adaptor is the bolt-on part that your oil filter screws on to. Take your oil filter off, and look at the base of the filter adaptor, next to the threaded body should only be one hole for the oil return if your lucky. If your unlucky youll have another hole for an oil return bypass. That bypass causes erratic oil pressure and cavitation which is known to toss a rod or two or if your lucky will just blow the oil filter cap off. And of course, run a good deep sump oil pan and pickup.

With that, a 360 is an expensive bitch to build - trust me on that. Factory cast pistons are fine just thirty over or whatever overbore you can go, close out the quench and have the block 0 decked and mill the heads down to bump up compression to get you in the lower mid 9s. You can also run a ROL performance head gasket which is .039 compared to the felpro .045 which will raise compression a hair. I find a mid 70s head with the dogleg exhaust ports flow pretty well. Dont need to go overboard on head porting for offroading, just do the normal valve grinds and gasket port the exhaust which is normally 1.88x1.88 for a performance exhaust gasket. Another hp increaser but not so cheap trick, run a 1.7 roller rocker and a chevy +100 pushrod - performance increaser but not a cheap one, the machine shop will have to grind the bosses and drill and tap 7/16 for guideplates. The summit 8600 cam is a great torque cam for a budget, or isky makes a really good grunt cam but is fairly expensive. Do a low rise dual plane intake, a holley 670 w/ vacuum secondary. Double roller timing chain, etc, etc. Toss on a set of 1.75" primary headers and a 2.5" two into 1 exhaust. With the above, you will be in the mid 300s. There are other tips/tricks, the above are some basics to get you going.
 
i think you should have kept your 6 shooter, but hey i mean even i am tryin to do a little swap now. maybe a 5.0, lt1, or ls1.
 
if i were to do it again i would have kept the 6 but to late for that. haha. i have always wanted a v8 and im swapping in an auto as well so i guess u could say iv been wanting to do it for a while..
 
Yo,
I would contact one of the well known cam manufacturers and tell them your goal. Crane, Crower, etc will gladly fit your machine with the right cam for the task. If you are going to crawl with that motor, low end torque and throttle response are paramount. Horsepower, a function of torque and RPM are secondary. Cubic inches, compression and stroke will get you the torque. Big valves, headers, godzilla carburetor are better at racing. Most cam manufacturers have economy cams that will do well for you and keep expenses down.

Best of luck with the project. :beer:
 
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Buyer beware
 
thank god mine wasn't like that. i contacted one of my buddies who builds engines but isn't a big amc man. he made a couple of calls and got some info for me. he is going to do everything just about menchioned like 3 way angle valve job, cam, springs, raise compression a alittle and some other little things. we hope to be pushing 350 HP at the least so well see.
thanks all and ill chim in when im building it and get the specs.

tyler
 
what exactly do you mean "the little oil mod"
tyler

Mainly this for the rear bearing...
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1465991432069564115hsrZDB

and this to improve the timing chain lube for good measure.....
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1466010537069564115eWFeQY

Like studnuts said, its mainly done for high rpm applications, true.....but I can't think of an application where more oiling is gonna hurt anything....and for me, 180K motor and wtf I'm in there anyway. Can't say from personal experience if its better or worse, need to fire it and get some mileage first. Later...
 
what about spark. should i use just motorcraft stuff or just dish out some more money and get aftermarktet.
if aftermarket what is a good choice and how easy is it

and if just motor craft, does anyone have the wireing scheme
 
also etjeep. do you have a write up for those oiling mods?
 
The DUI and HEI are nice, but pricey and arent all that great. The best spark improvement is the stock distributor, with a 460 cap/rotor, mustang base, and a ford TFI coil bundled with an MSD box.


what about spark. should i use just motorcraft stuff or just dish out some more money and get aftermarktet.
if aftermarket what is a good choice and how easy is it
and if just motor craft, does anyone have the wireing scheme
 
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