3D Printers??

Tacoma747 said:
I got the X1C, you can upgrade a P1s to essentially be an X1C, but I just figured I would start with the X1 in case I ever wanted to print nylon, etc. I print ABS often, and have printed nylon a time or two. I have about 1600 print hours on mine, I literally have had I think 1 clogged nozzle, and have pretty much never had to 'tinker' with it. I sold the CR10 to JJ not really knowing what I was diving in to with the X1 (as I didn't have it yet I don't think), but I remember having to constantly tinker with the CR10, level the bed, etc (granted, there were some functions on it I didn't figure out till I was getting rifle of it).

I'd love to have an H2D for the dual nozzles, and maybe one day when I have more Bambu gift cards I will buy one. I currently have about $300 worth of gift cards from Makerworld points.
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Wow! What are you printing that the machine has run 1,600 hrs?

This is my first time clicking in this thread. I have never used a 3D printer myself, but have gotten a few parts printed at work. I can't think of a need to have one at home.

Are you guys just printing trinkets for fun, or actual useful items?
 
drkelly said:
Wow! What are you printing that the machine has run 1,600 hrs?

This is my first time clicking in this thread. I have never used a 3D printer myself, but have gotten a few parts printed at work. I can't think of a need to have one at home.

Are you guys just printing trinkets for fun, or actual useful items?
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Go check out the 3d printing thread, there are tons of pictures in there of random things we all have printed. I have sold some things, but as a general rule most of the stuff I have printed has just been for personal use. Most of what I have sold has been prop guns from the Fallout series video games, and I have only sold a few of those as I was modifying the files to get them to print how I wanted.

Socket organizers
prop guns
random junk
countertop egg storage
fuel pump mount (nylon)
printer accessories
chick feeders (as commercial options waste a LOT of chick feed)
Christmas ornaments, Moravian star tree toppers for gifts

Lots of stuff. If I had to guess, I have sold around $300 worth of stuff, plus I have gotten around $400 now worth of gift cards from MakerWorld which I use on filament and such. Most of my points I have gotten came from modifying other peoples files to print in less pieces, without supports, etc. I am by no means a good designer, I can get by with TinkerCad. My biggest challenge sometimes TinkerCad's file size limitations.

For instance, one of my uploads was a Lego 'cup' to hold a 12oz can. I printed one off makerworld, but the can fit loose in it, and it required supports. I resized it, and made it print without supports, does it have a ton of downloads, no, but it was simple and every little bit counts. Another one was a Fallout gun "The Fixer". I took someone elses files that printed in about 18 pieces, merged them together to print in about 6-7 pieces making for a much stronger and simpler finished product.
 
Bumping this one.

Talk to me fellas… got my son an A1 a year or two ago. We learned a lot and wanting to take it to the next level. Big Bambu fan with a bunch of friends running them. I was about to go p2s but considering jumping up the the H2D AMS.

Am I on the right track or should I pivot?
 
frankenyoter said:
Bumping this one.

Talk to me fellas… got my son an A1 a year or two ago. We learned a lot and wanting to take it to the next level. Big Bambu fan with a bunch of friends running them. I was about to go p2s but considering jumping up the the H2D AMS.

Am I on the right track or should I pivot?
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There's a pretty massive price jump. I've ordered an H2D for work and it should be on hand this week but have no other experience with it beyond that.
I think it really comes down to the questions of
(1) build plate size - do you really need that massive 350x320mm vs the 256mm? I have an X1C at home and rarely have cases I need to make something bigger that can go diagonally. It does happen but it's not frequent.
(2) 2 materials simultaneously at higher speed / lower waste. The P2S can print multiple materials and colors, its just slow and uses more waste material (and I don't think can do TPU in combo w/ anything else...?). How often will you do that?

It really depends on what your expected usage is. I had an Ultimaker dual-extruder at work and I used to think I would want that at home. Honestly it very rarely comes up bc 98% of the things I print are "functional" parts and only 1 material and I can make support from the same material or just deal with the wastefulness of the switchout on my X1C.
If you wanna often make pretty things that have multiple colors or anticipate TPU+PLA or whatever in the same model, then it might be worth it. Or maybe you really need that big bed.

Everyone I know w/ a P2S loves it. IMO that w/ the AMS bundle its the best value out there for home DIYers.
 
justjeepin86 said:
Haha, the first one i made from pla, melted on the upper radiator hose. Well, didn't melt, just moved where it wanted to, lol.
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I wonder if ASA would do better
ABS is warping super easy if I dont let it completely cool all the way down in my P2S. Even then ive had some small parts till warp (like spare spray tubes for spray paint / wd40 cans)
 
ckruzer said:
I wonder if ASA would do better
ABS is warping super easy if I dont let it completely cool all the way down in my P2S. Even then ive had some small parts till warp (like spare spray tubes for spray paint / wd40 cans)
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ABS is really temperature sensitive. ASA is too, just slightly less so. But it hast he advantage of being more UV tolerant.

I've been printing a lot of car-stuff with PCTG lately. There are variants that are as heat tolerant as ABS but its way easier to print and also more chemically resistant.
 
RatLabGuy said:
ABS is really temperature sensitive. ASA is too, just slightly less so. But it hast he advantage of being more UV tolerant.

I've been printing a lot of car-stuff with PCTG lately. There are variants that are as heat tolerant as ABS but its way easier to print and also more chemically resistant.
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supposebly the P2S can print carbon fiber? What do you think of that for car stuff?
 
ckruzer said:
I wonder if ASA would do better
ABS is warping super easy if I dont let it completely cool all the way down in my P2S. Even then ive had some small parts till warp (like spare spray tubes for spray paint / wd40 cans)
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I haven't had warping issues after printing, but I have had much better luck with ABS since I raised the bed temp up to 110°. It keeps the chamber warmer, and helps keep it stuck to the build plate instead of warping the corners up.
 
Tacoma747 said:
I haven't had warping issues after printing, but I have had much better luck with ABS since I raised the bed temp up to 110°. It keeps the chamber warmer, and helps keep it stuck to the build plate instead of warping the corners up.
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oooooh yeah. The stock Bambu profile for ABS is just wrong, at least for my X1C. I always run at least 100 and sometimes 105. also you gotta let it sit awhile and get the chamber temp up, if its not at least 40 and ideally 50+ it will warp.
This is where the newer higher end printers shine w/ the built in heater.
 
RatLabGuy said:
oooooh yeah. The stock Bambu profile for ABS is just wrong, at least for my X1C. I always run at least 100 and sometimes 105. also you gotta let it sit awhile and get the chamber temp up, if its not at least 40 and ideally 50+ it will warp.
This is where the newer higher end printers shine w/ the built in heater.
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Yea I would love to get an H2D. I moved my printer out to the garage, so I have to let it heat up for at least 30-40 minutes before printing ABS, depending on the garage temp. I need to order a nozzle for my X1C, I keep having issues with the 0.4 nozzle when printing ABS (after a couple hours of printing). I am not sure if the fan is cutting off or what. No issues with the 0.6. the 0.4 probably has 1500 hours of print time on it, I'd say that's way better than my old creality, I seemed to change those like candy.
 
Gotta learn my settings better to avoid stuff like this PLA tough

IMG_3787.jpeg
 
I have both the X1C and H2D in my home office and materials vary depending on what I'm printing. Both printers print quite well and there are quirks to each that I've learned

For example, the X1C is great at printing PLA, PETG, etc but I have to leave the door open because it cannot cool the parts well enough to keep them from warping on larger/longer prints.

I preheat both printers before using ABS, ASA, or PA6-CF. I've gotten in the habit of always using glue regardless of material or build plate. When printing ABS, ASA, or PA6-CF, I intentionally position the parts as far back on the build tray as possible. There is a decent temperature difference from back of printer to the door and I've observed, on many occasions, parts warping in the areas close to the door.

I absolutely love the surface finish to PA6-CF. I've played with support settings to achieve a pretty good surface finish but also learned that PA6 is best removed from the tray/supports once it has completely cooled. The supports basically fall off. I also print PA6 (any variant) from an external dryer that is running the entire print time along with a 12-18hr preprint drying session.

If I was to do this all over again, I would order the H2S over the H2D and the sole reason is my use case. I thought I would be doing multi material prints more often but the reality is, for what I print, I have never used multiple materials in the same print. The H2S has a larger build volume. Yes it is the same sized machine, but the single nozzle being centered can reach more of the plate than the offset nozzles of the H2D and not require a seam in the part if it is larger than any one nozzles achievable area.

I would also order the HT AMS with the printer just for the sole fact that my OCD likes matching things and the Sunlu drier I currently have is a sore thumb on my work station lol.
 
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