4 angry squirls

BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.

BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.

BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.
Joined
Dec 3, 2006
Location
swannanoa
before u read this please be warned that its nothing special so dont blame me for wasting 5 min. of your boring life. :lol: now that we have that out of the way. this is a rebuild i have been working on for a 97 tj. the 2.5 come in with a rattle and after droping the pan i found that it had a broke piston skirt. so the owner said fix it and make it better. after tossing around a few combos this is what i decided to do for the best bang for the buck .so her is proof that the 4 bangers have potential i am hoping to see 160/180 hp out of this and it will be dyno'd after breakin. so if u must ask why not just get a 4.0? its not worth the hassle to swap in and this is a fery clean tj and its PAID FOR so he did not want to part with it in this economy.
bore block .030 over (3.090)
speed pro pistons with coated skirts=h823cr
hastings rings
clevite bearings +.001 on rods.
melling oil pump=m81a
melling cam=mc1297(has about .020 more lift)
pbm lifters=ha204
pbm timing set=t3062
felpro gaskets
180 deg thermostat
ported head
headder
4.0 tb
4.0 helix tb spacer
bore intake to 4.0 tb.
elect. fan
4.88 gears
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25 heads have pretty decent ports so i just cleaned up the casting flash and core shift line and focused on shaping the falve guide bosses.
exaust port
ai284.photobucket.com_albums_ll35_novacayne75_100_1423.jpg

intake port
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2.5 vs 4.0 tb. the 2.5 idle control must be used or it will have a surge at idle due to the difference in the plunger hole being to large.
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here is the spacer ill be using under the tb. i have one on my zj and it does make a difference!
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the top ring gap was set at .020 and the second .022 the reason for a wide gap on the second ring is to let gasses escape instead of pushing aganist top rang and causing it to flutter at high rpm.(remember how would u rev on this little 4 banger)
the cam was installed with plenty of lubriplate on the lobes. and the crank was in good condition so it was hand polished and installed with std.mains/.001 rods and that avraged .002 oil clearance. and no i wont hand polish anyones crank:lol:
1 peice gasket is the only way to fly.
ai284.photobucket.com_albums_ll35_novacayne75_100_1434.jpg

i have also found that a little lubraplate on the ends of the pan helps it press over the gasket.
ai284.photobucket.com_albums_ll35_novacayne75_100_1435.jpg
 
i called the owner to ask what color he wanted his eng. if not black. and i was told pick whatever i wanted as long as its not pink.(hehe wrong answer buddy):gay:
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it will be reinstalled in the jeep thursday so ill post a vid to see if it goes or blows. i hope this may help some other poor basterd thats stuck with a 2.5 tj and just wants to drive in 5th gear down hill someday.
 
would it not have been cheaper to do the 4.0?
 
rushdunaway said:
How much is all this work going to run?
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it is well under $2000 less gears. sounds a tad much to spend if you have a good running 2.5 but if its got to be replaced its a good deal compared to buying a long block and labor to install for a stock engine.
 
1stgenxxx said:
would it not have been cheaper to do the 4.0?
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nope by the time u round up a 4.0, ax-15, t-case or 23 spline input, ecm,wiring harness,fuel lines,radiator and im sure theirs more. plus labor time and still have a used engine. you are better of buying a 4.0 tj.
 
burrellsjeep said:
Coming from a fellow 2.5 guy,

I running the same header, It is a bitch to get it to seal at the down pipe


Great job,

Let us know what it ended up at HP wise and a total cost.
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this headder was installed last summer on the jeep and i have installed a few others with no problems just trash the pos bolts they send with it and get some 3/8 grade 8's and be sure the pipes on the flange straight.
 
1stgenxxx said:
would it not have been cheaper to do the 4.0?
Click to expand...

novacayne75 said:
nope by the time u round up a 4.0, ax-15, t-case or 23 spline input, ecm,wiring harness,fuel lines,radiator and im sure theirs more. plus labor time and still have a used engine. you are better of buying a 4.0 tj.
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Besides that if you get 180hp out of that 4banger it is lighter than the 4.0, better power to wieght ratio.
 
burrellsjeep said:
I believe 180hp is being conservative.
I think it will push over the 200hp mark.
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i dont think im that good. i think the factory rated it at 120 hp. im just hoping that it will compare to a stock 4.0 pulling 33's. i did get it in the frame yesterday and i had a zj come in for a front pinion seal and shocks and found that the person that installed front gears did not shim the preload on the bearing correctly and i had to take care of that so didnt get to fire up the new eng. maybe today
 
Sounds like a great build. I'll have to keep you in mind as my 4 cyl gains more and more miles. Might be time to do something similar...just not the purple block and valve cover.
 
well its alive :bounce2::bounce2::bounce2: fired up instantly let it run a 2000 rpm for 30 min. to break in cam oil pressure is 3/4 up on gauge never got over 180 deg. it was late and raining so only drove it about 5 mi. (cause it has a malfunctioning lockright in the rear)it feels strong from 2500 and up. you can feel the big throttle body when roling into it and it revs fast almost sounds like a street bike. ill get some sound vids this weekend.
 
tlucier said:
Sounds like a great build. I'll have to keep you in mind as my 4 cyl gains more and more miles. Might be time to do something similar...just not the purple block and valve cover.
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sorry dude only got pink or purple around here unless u want the works:gay:
 
Sounds like a solid plan now I understand why you had asked me if there was a Mopar Performance cam for the Jeep 2.5L
 
Its a 4 banger. It can only sound so good.
maybe puttin a fart can on it will make it sound better:lol:
 
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