401 swap into my CJ7

Put the oil pan on this morning, oil filter and filled with oil, hooked up the drill to prime the oil, and got 5 psi. I'm going to re-install the .007 thin oil pump gasket and see what happens even though I'm a little concerned about it putting undo stress on the cam and dizzy gears. But at least I'll see if it boosts the oil pressure to a reasonable amount.
 
I put the .007 gasket in. I got about 8 psi on the drill and I can not turn the pump from the top of the engine with a screwdriver because the clearances are so tight.

So now I have ensured that the gauge is not the problem, ensured that the pick-up is not sucking to the pan, re-did the pump with a steel midplate, thin gasket, oil filter bypass plug, so I'm thinking in has to be inside the engine, I reckon I'll pull the timing cover and check the galley plugs there and under the intake, unless someone has and other suggestions for me.
 
Thanks guys, I think its unlikely that a plug came out, but its my last hope before the entire engine comes out, gets stripped and goes back to the machine shop for new cam bearings and re-check crank and mains at a minimum.
 
After a weekend of camping and trout fishing in the mountains, back to working on the jeep. I decided it would be easier to go ahead and pull the grill, so I got the grill, radiator and fan out of the way. Then pulled the belts, AC compressor, alternator, power steering pump, fuel pump, water pump pulley, crank pulley, main crank bolt and unhooked all hoses. I have to go rent a harmonic balancer puller, that will have to wait till the morning, and the timing cover will be ready to come off. I'll update on what I find tomorrow.
 
After remembering the hard way that the water pump has to come off before the harmonic balancer, everything came off this morning, and both galley plugs behind the timing set are there and sealed, thats not the problem, can't see the upper ones without pulling the intake.

So I think to myself, what to do next. I think "hey, lets pull a valve cover and see if oil is getting to the rockers" then immediately after that "hey dummy, you pulled the timing cover, too late" So I put the timing cover back on with a few bolts and the old gasket, hoping it would seal good enough and it did, 5 psi oil pressure on the drill, no leaks. I pulled the driver side rocker cover and ran the drill for a good 2 minutes straight with around 5 psi oil pressure, never saw a drop come out of any of the push rods to any of the rockers.....not good.....

So I guess I will keep disassembling, I'm thinking intake next, which I'm going to drop some coolant into the oil pan when I pull it, but shouldn't hurt the engine to prime it with a little coolant mixed with the oil will it? I'd like to prime it after pulling the intake and see if I can see anything else.
 
Pretty sure I found the problem, which I was not expecting because I honestly did not notice a difference in engine sound, I reckon I'm just deaf or something.....Now.....What all do I need to replace/check? Obliviously all new push rods, those are the factory original ones with spacers under the rockers to make up length. Should have gone with new hardened ones when I rebuilt.

Should I buy a tool and measure for new ones, go original length and use shims again, which may be easier. Any company ya'll recommend to order push rods from? What was the probable cause for this? Too much HP/RPMS for 30 year old stockers or something I did wrong during assembly?

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I borrowed a cylinder leak down tester this morning and ran a test on the #5 cylinder, which is where the intake push rod broke. It passed and none of the air coming out of it was coming out of the intake port on the head or the exhaust. I'm thinking either the metal of the push rod was fatigued or I just over revved it. Either one is possible.

I went ahead and cleaned everything up and re-installed the timing cover, water pump, harmonic balancer and the alternator. I'll leave the AC compressor and power steering pump off just to keep them out of the way while installing the intake. This afternoon I plan to pull the rockers and old push rods, clean up the intake, and maybe open the bolt holes on it just a little, it was a PITA to put on on the stand, gonna be worse in the engine bay. Opening those holes a fuzz won't hurt anything that I can see, or am I wrong?

I'm debating on whether or not to install the intake, which then I could install the grill, radiator and everything else, or wait until the push rods get here and install the intake after putting the valve train together, any opinions on that?
 
I'd inspect all those lifters good too while you there, that might have been the culprit and or valve lash to close/loose and it got messy once the heat got in it.

To save you further grief, if you're the one who put that GM dizzy in it, it and the cam gear need to be a matched set or they will destroy themselves and put metal all thru your engine. Seen that happen more than once.

The 5 spd comment earlier; if you mean the AMC T5 version, I tore 3 up within 6 months of putting a V8 in my Jeep - T5 can't handle anything bigger than a 6 cyl in a Jeep.

For vapor lock I have an electric holley pump in the rear pushing and the fuel line runs partly inside the frame.

Since you said you might go down in tire size; I cut 8 lbs off my flywheel back when I last built my engine (1990), with small tires it'll wind up fast, but, you do lose some torque effect which wouldn't be noticable with a 401. Mine has a 2500 to 6000 rpm cam in it.


Good luck and I hope it's on the road soon.
 
Its all back together and I have oil pressure!!!! However, now I have a weird ticking sound, it sounds like its coming from the front of the engine, not from under a valve cover, but I could be wrong. I'm going to remove the belts and turn everything by hand to see what happens. I'm betting its the pulleys hitting in one spot, we'll see. Thanks again guys for your help finding and fixing the problem.
 
Took the power steering belt off, noise went away, put it back on, kinda loose, noise was not as loud, looks like I may be in for a new power steering pump before long. I also found that the water temp gauge is reading 250 degrees+ all the time, the engine is obviously not that hot, so I need to look into that too.

I got the timing to 8 DBTDC and idle at 800 rpm and went for a drive, felt good. Filled it up with gas, after the drive it had 28 PSI oil pressure at idle. Around 50 PSI cruising. Looking forward to taking it to work tomorrow, thanks guys.
 
BERTIE RENEGADE said:
Glad to hear you finially had some good news.When you learn this way you damn sure don't forget!
Click to expand...

Thanks Bertie Renegade, the entire engine build has been one large learning experience, hell just owning a CJ is a learning experience.....

I've messed with the timing and idle some more in that past day or two and have it running pretty good now. I bought a mechanical water temp gauge to install in place of the not working electric gauge, I haven't used a mechanical before, can the capillary tube be removed from the back of the gauge? I know that tube is filled with a gas that expands as it heats up but don't know if it will mess it up or not if I remove the tube from the back of the gauge, not a big deal during install, but when I have to pull the dash later, it will be important to know.

I also noticed that I have a small amount of oil on the bottom of the bell housing, I think either the oil pan or rear main is leaking, I don't want to pull the oil pan again, but looks like I might have to.
 
I decided to return the mechanical gauge and stay with a manual. It turns out that I'm having trouble finding an electric gauge locally, looks like I'll have to order one, anyone have any recommendations?

I seem to have it tuned in pretty well, driving good, running smooth, glad I switched to a manual choke. I do have one new issue. When I come to a stop while driving, the idle is around 1200 rpm, I gently tap the throttle and it goes right back down to 800 rpm. The external throttle return springs seems to have good tension on it, but something is causing the throttle to stick slightly open. It doesn't take much to get it back to full idle, just a small bump of the throttle, anyone have an idea before I randomly start replacing springs?
 
I used the stock heads, aftermarket high flow heads would be nice, but were way out of my budget.
 
Its been a while, tore a tendon in my foot, had surgery in December, just now getting to the point that I don't have to be on crutches. The 401 has about 800 miles on it and running good, even though I haven't ran it in over a month. While out of work and sitting around the house not allowed to drive, I've been doing a lot of reading, planning and shopping for parts. There are a few little things I got ready to go in when I'm back on my feet like 3 point seat belts to replace the lap belts, tow shackles, 26 gal Aero fuel tank I picked up from Spraypaintman, and an NV4500

I bought a Dodge gasser NV4500 with GM input from a member of the sight who said it had gotten water in it, I took a $50 gamble and picked it up, most internals were toast, only good parts were case, input shaft and countershaft. By shear luck I found a guy in MO that had a 4500 that the front bearing went out on and ruined his case, input shaft and countershaft, so he shipped me all his internals and shift cover for $250.

So now I have all the parts to make a working 4500, I have a full rebuild kit on the way with new 23 spline output mainshaft, 5th gear and 5th gear nut. I also have the AA full bellhousing adapter kit on its way and 5 quarts of the Amsoil NV4500 special oil to go in it. From everything I've read and people I've talked to, my Dana 300 should bolt right up to it.

Not sure what I'm going to do for driveshafts or cross member/skidplate yet, will have to cross that bridge when i get there, I'm thinking about getting a double cardan shaft from the front of an XJ and have it shortened for a new rear shaft, or I may just go ahead and get all new shafts, no sure yet.
 
Will do CJ5Walt, don't hold your breath though, probably gonna be a few months before I get everything done.
 
Got the case parts cleaned and painted today. I put a light coat of WD-40 on the interior and unpainted parts to keep them from rusting until its assembled. Also recieved the rebuild kit today. I attempted to make a 5th gear nut wrench. Worked on it for a while trying to make it fit the nut just right,then realized that I picked up the wrong nut and made it to fit the diesel version output. Reckon I'll try again with he correct nut later on. Anyone happen to have a 5th gear nut wrench for the 23 spline gas version I could borrow?
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Don't count on WD40 to keep thing from rusting. It does a great job of displacing water and cleaning off oil and grease but that is the problem, it cleans so well that it leaves things vunerable to a very nice uniform rust patina!
 
Thanks, I'll keep an eye on it, hopefully will begin assembly next week. I'm not far from beaver trail, have to check out that scout some time
 
Made a wrench for the correct nut today. Its ugly as sin, but hopefully it will work, that nut is torqued to 270 ft-lbs, hope my wrench is up for it. I also went through everything and noticed that I'm missing a roll pin and 2 thrust washer retaining pins. I went ahead and ordered a small parts kit that has those parts, along with new snap rings and shims to make sure that the mainshaft and countershaft end play is in spec. I also ordered a new shift tower at the same time.
Tomorrow I'm going to try and make a base to go on my floor jack to help lift the trans and also to help with the gas tank when I do that. I think I can unbolt the current metal pad on the jack, and make a metal frame topped with plywood that will bolt in its place, I'm thinking about 1' by 2' would be big enough.
 
Cleaned and organized everything today, hopefully all the parts I need will be here in the next 2 to 3 days. The used parts that I bought hadn't been completely dissasembled, so I finished taking everything off the mainshaft and laid everything out in the order it came out if the trans, to make it easier to assemble. I cleaned everything up, but ill make sure the parts are clean again before final assembly. I realized today that I'm missing one 1-2 syncro hub spring and one of the 3-4 springs are bent, so i ordered all new springs and struts for the shift hubs this morning, guy said they will be here in 2 to 3 days. Until then, I can go ahead and press on some new bearings, install the countershaft and check its end play, I'll start on that tomorrow probably.
The platform I made for the floor jack is going to work well I think, we'll see.
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