4l80e vs NV4500

Ricky B

Ricky B

Wiiide Open
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
Aight, so my tranny is def shot, no questions about it, its slipping bad and the fluid smells like burnt french fries and oil and IDK what.

Anyway I'm gonna swap in a 1 ton tranny, might take me a couple months to get around to it since $$ is kinda tight right now, but I'd like to get some opinions so I can keep an eye out for deals if they happen to pop up.

I have been a die hard Auto fan until here recently when I rode in two trucks just like mine with similar engines one auto one stick, and it seems night and day difference in the power that stick has over auto, plus it'll help with gas mileage, plus its stronger, and the list goes on.

Main thing I don't like about it is annoyingness of having to shift all the time, but I'm kinda over that now from seeing the difference in performance it makes.

Here's the real kicker is $$ what its gonna cost me to swap either in, if there is significant difference in price I might go auto instead of manual or vice a versa.

Assuming either tranny is in fair working condition what are my "other" costs or things im gonna be looking at with the swaps?

With a the auto it seems like a shift kit would be it anyone know cost on a decent kit?

With the manual its seems like id have to get clutch linkage/hydro, new flywheel and possibly a new clutch itself (not sure if the clutch from behind a big block bolts to a smallblock) anybody know prices on a flywheel and if the big block clutch bolts up?



obviously I'm probably forgetting something so please let me know if you see a flaw in my planning, and it goes without saying I will need a 32 spline input for my tcase for either tranny.

Thanks
 
BIGWOODY said:
Wouldn't even consider an auto if you plan on towing with it...period. But it's going to cost more to swap in I'd bet.
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Def planning on towing with it, I mean the tranny is the only thing I havn't replaced with one ton stuff yet, lol.

I'm leaning toward the manual, just not sure yet, also curious as to if anyone know if the clutch from a 454 will bolt to a 350 flywheel and what kinda flywheel I'll need. Is there a nv4500 350 specific flywheel or can I use a flywheel from a sm465 350?
 
ricky, i saw you had asked me that question in pm, but i don't know the answer. blkvoodoo is the gm buff if i remember right, might want to pm him.
 
If I was in your situation, I would just put a decent used 4L60E back in the truck or pull yours and take it to reputable shop for a rebuild. Once you are out of school (this is your last semester right?) and making money, sell the Z71 and buy a used Dodge with a CTD and manual tranny. I honestly think that is the best move you can make if you are going to continue to wheel and need a tow rig for your Jeep.
 
pheery said:
ricky, i saw you had asked me that question in pm, but i don't know the answer. blkvoodoo is the gm buff if i remember right, might want to pm him.
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Yea tryin to figure that out, bout the clutch/flywheel, I thought he was the yota buff?

drkelly said:
If I was in your situation, I would just put a decent used 4L60E back in the truck or pull yours and take it to reputable shop for a rebuild. Once you are out of school (this is your last semester right?) and making money, sell the Z71 and buy a used Dodge with a CTD and manual tranny. I honestly think that is the best move you can make if you are going to continue to wheel and need a tow rig for your Jeep.
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Yea I know, but I'm way beyond the point of no return with the Z71, and nobody's gonna buy the thing, besides like i said the only thing left thats not 1 ton (or at least 3/4 ton in some places) is the tranny, like I finnaly got all the little bugs/quirks/towing problems and upgrades squared away she's setup to safley tow a frikin gooseneck if I wanted to not a dual car gooseneck mind you but a car and a half one probably. . . . cept the tranny is shot :shaking::lol:
 
The only decent shift kit worth putting in is the transgo hd reprogramming kit. Which requires total trans disassembly.

The 4l80e also needs a seperate computer different than a 4l60e. 4l80e's are also more expensive to build but can be built to easily handle 1300hp(ask me how) Jasper is getting $2000 for their 4l80e's

I would build you a heavy duty 4l60e that would hold up very well in your circumstances if your interested (and i'll warranty it for a year) They can be built to withstand HD towing and abuse.
 
you can never go wrong with a NV4500. I've been a manual transmission guy for years. The auto is conveient, but I've seen a lot of them go bad on trails and on the road towing.

Find a flywheel that fits behind a 350 and use it. Make sure you get the bolts as well cause the maual trans flywheel bolts are longer than the auto flexplate bolts. I am almost 100% sure a clutch from a 454 will not work on the 350 flywheel. The clutch from the 350 will more than likely be an 11" clutch, the 454 should be bigger.

NV4500 transmissions are easy to find used and rebuilt ones can be had for a fair price. You'll need the bellhousing to fit the 350. Make sure you get the gas version of the NV4500 because the diesel version is different. Beware of the Dodge version as they are different than the GM versions. I think AA has a bellhousing to fit the Dodge to a 350 if you find the Dodge one with a 6.72 first gear. The Dana 300 bolts to the back of the Dodge version. I'm not sure what TC bolts to the back of the GM NV4500.

My opinion, go with the NV4500. It'll prob be the same $$$ or even cheaper to go with the NV4500 and you wont' be spending more $$$ polishing a turd, you'll be upgrading with something quality and actually improving your truck, especially if it'll be used for towing.
 
If I had to do it again, I'd buy the NV4500 parts. All items can be swapped on and you avoid needing to possibly have to swap PCMs (may just need a tune for the stick) I would just go find the used parts from a big block nv4500 setup. Swap the pedals etc..

But if your interested to go for a ride in my truck stop up this weekend. (454 w/4l80e ) I went through the 4l80e rebuild process, I've got a standard rebuild with HD converter, and the transgo HD2 kit. I'm happy with the end result but getting there wasn't fun. Knowing what I know now I understand what they want 2K for a rebuild.. (not saying I'd pay it but its understandable)

That said the only way I'd tow with a 4l80e is with the HD2 kit, it's night/day difference. It shifts hard and fast. But you do need to have a good cooling system and have the computer and gears dialed in right to tow. I also just got my chip adapter so I can tweak the converter lockup points and enable 2nd gear lockup for pulling the big hills.

Good luck.
 
sha_ba_do_bang said:
The only decent shift kit worth putting in is the transgo hd reprogramming kit. Which requires total trans disassembly.
The 4l80e also needs a seperate computer different than a 4l60e. 4l80e's are also more expensive to build but can be built to easily handle 1300hp(ask me how) Jasper is getting $2000 for their 4l80e's
I would build you a heavy duty 4l60e that would hold up very well in your circumstances if your interested (and i'll warranty it for a year) They can be built to withstand HD towing and abuse.
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Yea I've heard good stuff about transgo, I'll look into it for the 4l80, as far as the rebuilt 4l60 I'd rather just go with the 1 ton now and not have to mess with it again later

rockcity]you can never go wrong with a NV4500. I've been a manual transmission guy for years. The auto is conveient said:
If I had to do it again, I'd buy the NV4500 parts. All items can be swapped on and you avoid needing to possibly have to swap PCMs (may just need a tune for the stick) I would just go find the used parts from a big block nv4500 setup. Swap the pedals etc..

But if your interested to go for a ride in my truck stop up this weekend. (454 w/4l80e ) I went through the 4l80e rebuild process, I've got a standard rebuild with HD converter, and the transgo HD2 kit. I'm happy with the end result but getting there wasn't fun. Knowing what I know now I understand what they want 2K for a rebuild.. (not saying I'd pay it but its understandable)

That said the only way I'd tow with a 4l80e is with the HD2 kit, it's night/day difference. It shifts hard and fast. But you do need to have a good cooling system and have the computer and gears dialed in right to tow. I also just got my chip adapter so I can tweak the converter lockup points and enable 2nd gear lockup for pulling the big hills.

Good luck.
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The computer shouldn't really be an issue cause the tbichips.com guy can make it do w/e so if I did want to go 4l80 no prob but I'm just leaning more toward the nv4500, it does sound like the HD2 kit is the way to go if I go 4l80, thanks for the offer on the test ride, I'm sure it shifts good, not too worried bout that, like I mentioned in the beginning its all really gonna come down to the end price probably




So it seems like the extra's I'm looking at are:

If I go 4l80e
-HD2 shift kit will need to be purchased

If I go NV4500 (from behind a Big Block)
-New Clutch will need to be purchased
-Flywheel will need to be purchased

And for both:
-32 spline input for np241 (or more likely whole new np241 with 32 spline already in it since GM wants $200 just for a friggin 32 spline input gear)




Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks for the input guys :driver:
 
Bellhousing on the 4500..
 
pedal assembly, master cylinder

I have no idea about chevy apps, but is the drivetrain the same length? IE will he have to adjust dfriveshaft lengths and or crossmember locations?
 
has bellhousing, and all necessary pedal assembly already.

i am betting the driveshafts will have to be modified.
 
damn, didn't even think about driveshafts, the front is no big deal but that damn rear custom shaft from fleetpride was expensive :(


Patrick you think you could measure the length from the front of the bellhousing to the tcase mating surface for me too so I can get an Idea on length issues?




Anything else anyone see's I'm missing?
Thanks
 
hscrugby said:
Drive shaft lengthen/shorten shouldn't be to pricey.
Not compared to the rest of what you're doing.
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Well if it was shortening then it wouldnt be too bad just cost for cut, weld and rebalance which is like $100 I think

but if it lengthening then I have to pay for a whole new tube and two cuts two weld, and rebalancing, which is like $150 to 250 I think
 
pheery said:
you need to go to olivers in winston, much cheaper than fleet pride. good guy too.
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hscrugby said:
Or triangle drive shaft up in Durham.
That seems REALLY pricey.
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Yea Feetpride is pretty pricey, the guy did good work thou and went above and beyond taking care of me with a little issue we had, but yea, I'll probably go with w/e I can find cheapest.

BIGWOODY said:
Stop with the turd polish and buy a real tow rig rather than dumping money down a hole...... http://nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37477
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But Greg Turd Polish is Buy one get One free right now man :shaking::lol:

Besides, I have no money, well, at the moment I have like $600 but I don't think thats enough to buy another truck with
 
I think the 4L80e for the ease of the swap, youll be up and running in alot less time.
I dont think your puttin out anymore power then a new 6 liter chev, and if your geared right id say the 80 should last fine. JMO
 
I've stated on here a zillion times of what I think of fleetpride's prices.:flipoff2: Even Brakes Inc in North Raleigh can do a shaft for half their price.
X2 for Triangle Drive Shaft as well... ANYBODY but Fleetpride.:flipoff2:
 
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