72 Blazer Build

scottishdave

Active Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2009
Location
jacksonville
Not much for talking so here are the basics,

Doing a frame up resto/build on a 72 k5, Plan on running 1-tons on a 4" lift, 350/th350/205. Will start with 35's and then bump to 37's once i get the fenders re-shaped as i dont want any lift past 4" Anyway...here are a bunch of pics, I have been slowy working on this for about 2 months now and am not really in any hurry. Any comments, suggestions, advice or critiques are welcomed as i am not the most experianced fellow.
 
Here it is on the day i got it
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Tired old 350
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14ff/4.56/gov-lock
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D60/4.56/open
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First pile of parts arrived
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More parts porn
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Dont even want to say how much sheet metal i bought from here
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GM crate 350, hooker headers, etc...etc....etc...
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Bunch of stuff from OffRoadDevelopment
shackle flip, HD rear shackles, hd front shackles, greasable poly-bushings all around, 4"Tuff Country EZ-Ride front springs, etc...
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Gas tank, sender
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brake lines from inlinetube
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Thats all the parts porn for now
 
started stripping the frame to metal and coating with spraycan rustoleum primer. Decided i didnt like it and ordered some Rust Bullet and held off until it comes in.
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Rear ORD shackle hangers and HD shackles installed along with Greasable PolyUrethane bushings. Except for rear spring eye which i still need to put the bushing in.
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Front 4" EZ-rides and ORD shackles with greasable poly-bushings
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Old Rockers, rocker box and floor, cab support etc...getting cut out and new metal being put in.
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Fender patch panel
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And thats it...that is where i am at right now
 
The body is as you see it, i took those pictures today. Once the rust-bullet gets here i can get the frame coated put the engine, tranny, t-case back on and the gas tank. The focus on getting the 1-tons on. Which will mean moving the spring perch's and shock tabs on the 14bolt and the shock tabs on the d60.

Got a whole bunch of other stuff to think about after that, like rear disk brake conversion, New driveshafts so i dont have to run conversion u-joints, E-brake, if i want to do crossover/high steering now or save it for later, etc...etc...etc...Not really in a hurry anymore though so its not a big deal.

Might have to borrow your welder though soon, once i get the frame coated i have some welding on the frame to do before i start putting things back on.

How is the Scout coming?
 
good base.

have to ask, not bashing just curios, you are obviously not scared to throw some coin at this given the pictures, based on that why not go efi? At least TBi
 
Good question man, reason is i am keeping it simple for now as far as engine/tranny goes. I had so so so much other stuff to do and think about that i decided it was more important to just get a good simple engine/tranny set-up and focus my attention on all the other things.

As far as throwing cash at the project, after 7 years and getting shot at for 3 out of 4 deployments the Marine Corps threw some cash my way for re-enlisting again. I set a portion aside for this project and have strictly budgeted within that alotment to get the truck driveable and wheelable.
 
Looks promising. I would probably go with the 37s to start with though. One tons have quite a bit of meat to clear over the rocks and any extra bit helps.
 
Got it and started working mid-April so been tinkering with it for about 2 months maybe. Not really in a rush though.

Picked up some cheap rollers for the the 1-tons so i can start doing that swap, gotta order the rear spring perches.
 
14ff/4.56/gov-lock
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The 14 bolt rear I delivered to you has a Detroit "the real deal" NOT a Gov-lock
 
VERY sweet project! My dad and I restored my 72 GMC Jimmy / and then sold it because I did not want to beat it up offroad!

Pretty cool to see those rocker boxes / they were either not avail or REALLY $$$ when we did mine / instead we custom fabbed our own.

You may want to throw on a small body lift to clear the 37s that way you don't "destroy" the wheel well lines on the rig by cutting em out?

I suspect with 1.xx of body lift that should be enough? Especially if you are running say BFG 37s which run small... IROCs run true to size though.

Will be watching this thread!

Sam
 
scottishdave said:
Thought all those cucv military trucks had "gov-locks" which were infact detroits
Click to expand...

CUCV axles should have detroits in them. I think the "brand" name was no-slip, but it's a detroit. If you pull the cover, the carrier will look like it has two cross pins. Those are the four ends of the center piece on the detroit.

The gov-lock has a different number.... three ends, IIRC. It's the one that has a pin that drops when one tire starts to spin, spooling the rear end. It would make a little "thunk" when the pin dropped.
 
SHINTON :Thanks for the advice, I actualy have a 1" body lift form ORD but i am not sure if i want to use it or not. I am on ColoradoK5.com alot and a few guys on there did some nice work makeing the fender wells larger while maintaining a completely stock look. Takes more time than just cutting, but nobody can tell its all 1 1/2 -2" wider.

saf-t-scissors : Thanks, i thought all cucv axles just had gov-locks. Good to know.
 
So spent some hours with the wire wheels tearing it up on the inside of my frame, the cleaned with some Acetone and brushed on the RustBullet.

Only got one side done as i want to clean up the other side alittle more tommorow. Also couldnt do the front section yet as i want to wait until my DIY4X crossmember gets here which SHOULD be anyday now

The outside section of the frame was stripped to absolute bare steel and then primed with spray on rustoleum primer and then i used some rubberized coating ontop of that.

I figured the inside should get the good good stuff as if i ever needed to sand and coat that area in the future it would require alot more work as it is hard to get too. The outside is always easy to access.
 
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