760 shafts or alloys?

loki_racer

loki_racer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2005
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Well, I made it to the Gultches this weekend. 2 hour trip down there and the first rock I put my wheels on exploded by shafts. They were said to be 760 joints and I didn't even think to check them because the caps were bigger than the old ones (260's).

They aren't 760 joints, but now I'm afraid that paying money for real 760 joints is just good money after bad money.

Now the question is, do I move to alloy shafts, or just make sure I have a spare set of stock shafts?

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That joint says it's a 297, so it's the same as a 760, just the old style.
 
I'm not sure what to believe, but http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=760+vs+297 disagrees. Lots of comments about 760's being 20-30% stronger.

I'm not saying they are or they aren't. I'm not in a position to say either way. I do know I was told they were 760's, they aren't and now I have to decide if the interwebs are correct in saying 760's are stronger and risk buying some.
 
They're marginally stronger. But it's still a stock D44 shaft. You're going to stretch the ears on the shaft eventually.
 
297s are NOT the same as 760s. The 760s are cold forged.

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/products/131_0212_5_760x_spicer_u_joint_jeeps/index.html


As far as shafts are concerned, I have these: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-159906-nitro-dana-30-chromoly-axle-shaft-kit.html

They come with 760s, and I have zero complaints from them so far. After wheeling I will feel around on the u-joint to check the tightness of the caps.... nothing to worry about so far. The full circle clips seem to help a lot. My old half circle clips made the u-joint caps pretty loose.

P.S. - I still have a full set of front/rear spare shafts that I carry... just because I'm running a 36" tire on a HP30, chromos or not.
 
Looks like your stub let go first anyway. Go with a set of non-yukon alloy shafts and a spicer 760 joint, alloy joints would be a waste as the ujoints won't be the weak link. If you want to do it cheap, buy another stub and weld the next set of caps to the ears.
 
336wheeler said:
297s are NOT the same as 760s. The 760s are cold forged.

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/products/131_0212_5_760x_spicer_u_joint_jeeps/index.html


As far as shafts are concerned, I have these: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-159906-nitro-dana-30-chromoly-axle-shaft-kit.html

They come with 760s, and I have zero complaints from them so far. After wheeling I will feel around on the u-joint to check the tightness of the caps.... nothing to worry about so far. The full circle clips seem to help a lot. My old half circle clips made the u-joint caps pretty loose.

P.S. - I still have a full set of front/rear spare shafts that I carry... just because I'm running a 36" tire on a HP30, chromos or not.
Click to expand...

Good advise and the difference IMHO on shafts living and dying will be full circle clips or welding the caps.

hadfield4wd said:
get alloys. With alloy joints.
Click to expand...


That is what I would do too.
 
Stock shafts may be ok. I won't get into that debate, but I'm pretty sure the 760 joint will be all you need "IF" you install full circle clips. On stock shafts you have to do some trimming to get them on. You can get 760 joints for $25-$30 each so not a bad investment.
 
One thing to think about if installing aftermarket shafts with stock joints (although most kits come with them)........shaft warranties do not typically cover if the shaft is damaged from a u-joint failure.

Shaft warranties do cover breakage when 300M joints are used.

Just food for thought.
 
Just FYI, I don't think you are suppose to run CTM 'style' joints (the ones with bushings instead of needles) in street driven/DD rigs because they will wear out the bushings rapidly. If you have unlocking hubs and your shafts don't turn, then I would think that you should be fine.

Somebody please correct me if I am wrong on that, but that has always been my understanding of those new joints with bushings.

If I am correct, then a joint like this might be the best choice:
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-132977-alloy-usa-x-joint-dana-30-u-joint.html
 
zubz said:
One thing to think about if installing aftermarket shafts with stock joints (although most kits come with them)........shaft warranties do not typically cover if the shaft is damaged from a u-joint failure.

Shaft warranties do cover breakage when 300M joints are used.

Just food for thought.
Click to expand...

This is true... but because all of the 300M joints have no needle bearings, it jeopardizes streetability. However, I've heard that if you are adamant about greasing the u-joints, it shouldn't be too big of a deal.

I've looked at the Nitro joints for my shafts, but want to see how the 760s hold up first.
 
I sold Chris those.
I sold them to ya as 297/760 series. Yes, the 760 is the Spicer replacement for the 297's. They are more durable, not really that much stronger. If a 297 joint broke, then a 760 would have in the same circumstance.

Basically like comparing GMC to Chevy, IMO.

I do apologize if I wasn't clear when I sold them to ya.
 
No worries about the confusion. I don't think anything was done to be deceiving and was 100% happy with the sale, just not with the shafts (but that's on me).

There are so many opinions flying around, it's hard for me to make an educated decision.

alloy shafts, normal joints
alloy shafts, alloy joints
normal shafts, welded caps
on and on

Is there a best option?
 
At a miminum I would go full circle joints. From my experience, most all of my breakage started with the c-clip joints ones. I went the tack weld route as well but still had . Once I went to chromo shafts( Plug for ECGS on those) and full circ joints, my breakage went away.
 
loki_racer said:
Is there a best option?
Click to expand...
Whatever option you go with, be aware you're still wheeling with a D30 and know it's limitations.

Personally, I like to stick to stock shafts with the caps tacked. Only use Spicer joints. Anything cheaper is crap. My reasoning is stock shafts are cheap to replace and I have a shelf full of replacements from the pull-a-part for DIRT cheap. The stock shafts will usually break before you grenade the ring and pinion. It's a whole lot easier to replace a shaft on the trail than a gear set. See where I'm going here?:lol:

I should mention that I've only broken one shaft. I've found what breaks them and I avoid bouncing when I can and don't hammer the gas with the steering full locked to the side. I just wheel within the limitations of the front axle.
 
willness33 said:
I've found what breaks them and I avoid bouncing when I can and don't hammer the gas with the steering full locked to the side. I just wheel within the limitations of the front axle.
Click to expand...

I try not to bounce, but never thought about whether or not having the wheels turned made the joints weaker.

This weekend was just me being stupid. Unfamiliar wheels, tires and gears. I should have started out with an easier trail. Live and learn.
 
loki_racer said:
I try not to bounce, but never thought about whether or not having the wheels turned made the joints weaker.
This weekend was just me being stupid. Unfamiliar wheels, tires and gears. I should have started out with an easier trail. Live and learn.
Click to expand...

This is why Birfield type joints and RCV shafts are stronger.... u-joints get progressively weaker with the amount of steering applied.

Is your dana 30 a high pinion or low pinion housing? The ring gear in the HP30 is a bit stronger, but it's still a 30. Not really worth the upgrade to a driver drop waggy 44, except for the fact that they have hubs (which can be great, but carry spare shafts and don't worry about it)... a HP44 or 60 will be your best bet if you ever swap axles down the road.
 
I have dana 44s. I am replacing my 297s...with 760. The research I found is they arent saying they are stronger, but 10x more durable. How that plays out I am not sure. I know a couple of guys that are using them, and they love them. Only problem I am seeing is that the caps can come off during hard wheeling. I plan on putting mine to the test. Its worth a shot for about 35 bucks a piece.
 
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