79 Ford Dana 60 Camber

I only question his sanity because he's running mud grapplers :shaking:

More positive caster definitely won't make anything drive worse, it's just a matter of the relation between the caster angle and pinion angle. When you add positive caster, your pinion gets turned downwards. I always run at 3-5 degrees caster to get the pinion up as much as I can.
 
I try to do the opposite in my applications. Pinion angle down to clear oil pans and upper links (low riders)
Got a pic of how your front is setup?
 
Was that reference to me or him? Cut and turns on a 60 are kind of a pain in the ass. They're a .002-.003 press fit on the axle tube, so unless you've got the right stuff to get the inner Cs off, you'll lose your religion trying to get it apart.

There's not much special about how the front is setup in either of my trucks with D60s. Both have leaf springs. One is a Chevy 60 and the other is a 78/79 HP Ford 60. Even being a high pinion, the relationship between the caster angle and pinion angle is terrible on the Ford 60. The front drivelines in the old Ford trucks was pretty flat from what I've seen, so that explains that. The old CUCV is fine and I'm still using the stock front driveshaft.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Was that reference to me or him? Cut and turns on a 60 are kind of a pain in the ass. They're a .002-.003 press fit on the axle tube, so unless you've got the right stuff to get the inner Cs off, you'll lose your religion trying to get it apart.
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True, but there is another way.
Cut the tubes and sleeve them. Set pinion angle, rotate knuckles to desired caster, tack weld the tubes, burn in. I've done that a few times before when the outer knuckles looked like they would never budge.
 
I had thought of that too, but I don't need to turn them...that's why I was confused as to who he was talking to.

I did toss in an offset u joint just to give me some extra droop on the axle end. Otherwise, everything is lovely.
 
Maybe he was suggesting I cut and turn my low pinion down :lol:

True, according to pirate4x4, 9* caster shouldn't work but there's two daily driven 1 ton rigs in Columbia SC that rock that exact number that blow that myth straight off the map.

It boils down to personal preference and desired handling. I sure wouldn't go out of my way to cut and turn an axle because the internet says it should ride better according to third person opinion.
:driver:
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I only question his sanity because he's running mud grapplers :shaking:

More positive caster definitely won't make anything drive worse, it's just a matter of the relation between the caster angle and pinion angle. When you add positive caster, your pinion gets turned downwards. I always run at 3-5 degrees caster to get the pinion up as much as I can.
Click to expand...

It was in reference to this, talking about the compromise between caster and pinion angle. Set your pinion where you need it, cut the Cs loose and turn them.

XJsavage said:
It boils down to personal preference and desired handling. I sure wouldn't go out of my way to cut and turn an axle because the internet says it should ride better according to third person opinion.
:driver:
Click to expand...

You do it because the pinion angle has to be one thing and the caster should be another, not because of an opinion. For example, on mine I have to run a CV front shaft because my portal boxes do not have locking hubs. The front driveline spins all the time. Thus, I had to set my pinion straight up at the T-case first. Then I had to get an appropriate amount of caster so the thing would drive properly down the road. The internet did not tell me that. Maybe for all you guys that have part time 4wd and only play around on trails you can get away with improper pinion angles and do not really care. I did not have a choice as I would be nuking u-joints all the time.
 
I built mine to run everywhere from 5*-10* caster. Started at 6* and fine tune adjusted to where it handled ideally and eventually settled at 9*. Pinion to driveshaft angle is same as t-case to driveshaft, 1350 u-joint both ends. I've had mine up to 60 mph before with 4wd engaged (testing purposes). Mine is also 100% street capable and driven quite often. No trailer queens here.
;)
 
Mine drives great on the road and the pinion angle is good enough that it works throughout the range of suspension movement. It's not worth my hassle to turn the Cs in this case. There's a high angle CV at the transfer case end and a 1350 joint at the axle. If I really needed to, I could just go up to 1410 to get more angle out of that end.
 
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