8.8 Bind at full droop

[Buddy Holly]

I am currently swapping an 8.8 into the rear of my yj without an SYE. I had the pinion angle set to about 1 degree higher than what the Dana 35 was at, to accommodate for the lift the jeep has (sagging 2" springs, about 1" over stock SUA). The angle is now about 3 degrees. The issue I am having is with the driveshaft binding at full droop. The ears of the DS physically are hitting the flange adapter. The only way I was able to get it to not bind is by installing 6.5 degree pinion shims under the springs (something I am extremely hesitant to run). Even with the shims there is less than 3/8" between the DS and flange adapter. I am planning on buying an SYE when I get the money saved up. I didn't plan on doing the swap without it, but the 35 was worn out and about to blow the R&P so something needed to be done ASAP.

Any ideas on this? The 35 never bound up like the 8.8 does and it was an even shallower pinion angle. I am fairly certain the binding is because of the flange/flange adapter of the 8.8. Is there a flange adapter that has better clearance? Would a conventional yoke give me more clearance?

 

[Bogleparsons]

can you post a pic?

 

[strange1]

I cant find a good pic of my old setup, but I made a bracket that attached to the rear diff via longer cover bolts and attached a limit strap to the center of the rear diff. I didn't have a lot of down travel, but it would still flex at the tire without putting any tension on the strap. Here is a flex pic, you can see the yellow bracket on top of the diff. I never felt like it was a limit on the trail, however you would feel it on the street and on high-speed sections. Depending on how long you can make it, you may never notice it.



I should add that I did not have an 8.8, nor was it binding on the axle end. With my set up, I had to limit mine to keep from maxing out the joint at the transfer case end of the driveshaft. I had a double cardan shaft and had rotated the pinion up to where it needed to be, but was within just a few degrees of maxing out the t-case end at ride height. I never had a driveshaft problem.

 

[Tarheel 4WD Center]

Ditch the adapter and install a yoke for the appropriate sized u-joint. Your d-shaft will be effectively a bit longer and it should take care of the bind.

 

[Buddy Holly]

can you post a pic?

I had a pic somewhere but it got deleted. Everything is disassembled again.

I cant find a good pic of my old setup, but I made a bracket that attached to the rear diff via longer cover bolts and attached a limit strap to the center of the rear diff. I didn't have a lot of down travel, but it would still flex at the tire without putting any tension on the strap. Here is a flex pic, you can see the yellow bracket on top of the diff. I never felt like it was a limit on the trail, however you would feel it on the street and on high-speed sections. Depending on how long you can make it, you may never notice it.

View attachment 163662

I should add that I did not have an 8.8, nor was it binding on the axle end. With my set up, I had to limit mine to keep from maxing out the joint at the transfer case end of the driveshaft. I had a double cardan shaft and had rotated the pinion up to where it needed to be, but was within just a few degrees of maxing out the t-case end at ride height. I never had a driveshaft problem.

I don't have much down travel either which was what had me confused.

Ditch the adapter and install a yoke for the appropriate sized u-joint. Your d-shaft will be effectively a bit longer and it should take care of the bind.

I took some measurements between my old yoke and the flange adapter. You are right! The yoke allows for about 5 degrees more articulation where I need it. Headed to East Coast Gear Supply today to pick up a yoke.