8.8 swap

lagnaf311

lagnaf311

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Location
Wilson NC
I have a 1998 TJ, and I am planning on switching the rear 35 for an 8.8. I woundering just how much work would be involved in this switch. I am also interested to know the pros and cons of the 8.8.
 
lagnaf311 said:
I have a 1998 TJ, and I am planning on switching the rear 35 for an 8.8. I woundering just how much work would be involved in this switch. I am also interested to know the pros and cons of the 8.8.
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Not gonna go over all the points on here but if you want to give a shout I will be happy to talk to you about it. We do at least a couple 8.8s a week for TJs.

Andy
 
I want to do the 8.8 sometime soon in my cherokee, I know other than cleaning and getting it ready to be put back on you have to put new spring perches on and get your brake lines and E brake all set up. Dont hold me to it but Im pretty sure thats some of the steps required.
 
lagnaf311 said:
I have a 1998 TJ, and I am planning on switching the rear 35 for an 8.8. I woundering just how much work would be involved in this switch. I am also interested to know the pros and cons of the 8.8.
Click to expand...

While you have it out. Go ahead and regear it and lock it. The downfalls of the 8.8 are 1) carrier 2) intersection of tubes and housing 3) c-clip axle. The pros of the 8.8 are 1) your bolt pattern 2) 120% stronger than d35 3) almost same width 4) disc brakes 5) relatively easy to find in good shape 6) cheap. The shortcomings of the axle are easily overcome: weld the tubes to the housing, throw a detroit in to eliminate the carrier problem, and if you break a shaft the calipers should keep the shaft in so you can limp back home.

For your application you'd need to strip the axle of all the old brackets and weld on buckets and mounts for your control arms, etc. The axle is slightly narrower than the stock 35, so you may need to get spacers or different wheels. Andy can help ya' if you have any urgent questions. Hope this helps, Josh
 
there are tons of writeups online. stu-offroad has a nice writeup. the biggest PITA on this swap is the brackets. If you dont have some sort of jig its hard to get them all perfectly aligned.
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
The shortcomings of the axle are easily overcome: weld the tubes to the housing, throw a detroit in to eliminate the carrier problem, and if you break a shaft the calipers should keep the shaft in so you can limp back home.
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I can vouch for the caliper holding the axle in. After I had installed mine, the c-clip, at some point, had fallen off the axle and stuck in the locker. When I was rotating my tires I pulled off the right rear and the axle came out with it. This was after a 150 mile trip that day, who knows how long they were held in with just the brake caliper :-\.

As stated above by thebluyak about the perches. You'll also have to install control arm and trackbar brackets since you have a TJ. I was able to do mine, with a regear and locker for $2000.
 
As far as strength goes

COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.

Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500
Click to expand...
 
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