8 lug dodge Dana 60 front from a 96 2500?

Flex5

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Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Location
Lenoir NC
Is anyone running one of these or has anyone run one? What are the drawbacks and Is it worth having?

I know, I know.... wrong section. Move it for me please. I clicked the wrong tab-uh-whatever.
 
I think that is a disconect axle and pretty sure it has unit bearings, not really sure when that was put in. But if so those would be a weak point.
 
It is a vacuum disconnect but I am fairly certain the bearings are not unit. My 97 2500 dodge does not have unit bearings. What I am really questioning is should I run a chevy 8 lug, manual locking D44 kingpin with flat tops or would this dodge axle provide any benefits? I can get this axle and the matching 8 lug 70 rear pretty cheap.
 
I'm running one in my 96 Ram :)

Stock 96 2500 front D60 will be ball joint, vac disconnect, 30 spline outers with unit bearings. Mine is upgraded to 35 spline outers, locking hubs and alloy shafts, one piece shaft on the passenger side which does away with the vac disconnect. Plenty strong for most applications. Mountain Ram here on the board is running the same axle, pretty much stock, in his 2500 trail rig on 42s. He beats that thing hard and it has held up fine for several years.

The call on the 44 or the 60 will depend on tire size you plan to run. Inners are going to be smaller on the 44, R&P is smaller too. 60 is set up for coils. Lots of stuff to consider before you make your choice :driver:
 
I intend to run it under a YJ using a 4BT as a power plant, NP435, and D300. Good to know that it can be converted to a manual hub and solid shaft. How much did that cost you?
 
It's stronger than a Dana 44 but weaker than an older style Dana 60 that's been upgraded to 35 spline shafts.

The biggest benfits I see are you get a stronger r&p and big Dana 60 ujoints. The bearings and stock shafts probably won't hold up that much better than an older dana 44. The 44 has smaller OUTER shafts.

I wouldn't pay to upgrade anything except maybe gears. Shafts and manual hub conversion are way too expensive. It should be fine to about 38-40" tires.
 
Any ideas about running a locker and using the vacuum disconnect manually like having a selectable locker? Like in the stock YJ and TJ axles w vacuum lock. I was planning on somewhere in the 37" range for trail tires. I know that in my 97 dodge the front end will hop significantly when 4wd is engaged, much like the locked front end in my CJ. I mean it binds and jumps, no slip or skip in the axle itself and that is a 10,000lb rig.
 
Flex5 said:
Any ideas about running a locker and using the vacuum disconnect manually like having a selectable locker? Like in the stock YJ and TJ axles w vacuum lock. I was planning on somewhere in the 37" range for trail tires. I know that in my 97 dodge the front end will hop significantly when 4wd is engaged, much like the locked front end in my CJ. I mean it binds and jumps, no slip or skip in the axle itself and that is a 10,000lb rig.
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You can put a cable operated mechanism on the CAD/vacuum disconnect - usually called posi-lock. A lot of places sell or it you can make you own pretty easily. Keep in mind if you "unlock" it that way you are always disengaging power to the right front wheel and the left front will still have power in 4wd.
 
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