OK first with the rear driveshaft. If your factory driveshaft has inside lock rings on the rear yoke, you need the combination u-joint : Napa #447. If your driveshaft has outside lock rings, then you can use the factory ujoint: Napa #331(Spicer 1350).
The front driveshaft: You should be able to use the stock u-joint, if your 60 is an 84. But just in case, here is the year breakdown for you.
If your front axle is 1980-1987 you can use the oem front joint: Napa #534G.
If your front axle is a 79, you need the same combo joint: Napa #447.
If your front axle is a 77-78, you need the combo u-joint: Napa #372
People put 3/4 ton brakes on the front 60 in order to run smaller master cylinders, and to clear smaller diameter wheels.
The front brake lines for the 60 should bolt in to your frame-side lines with no problem.
As for your rear brakes, there are many different choices as far as what line, and what fitting all depending on if you want rubber or stainless lines, and if you want one flexible line going to each wheel, or if you want the factory orientation of one line down to a T fitting on the axle, then going to each rear wheel.
As far as mounting the Front axle, it should be completely bolt in as a replacement for your 10 bolt.
On the rear axle:
The easiest and fastest way to get it mounted is to chop off the perches from the 14b. Get a 14b simple swap kit (like the one from ruffstuffspecialties.com) that includes perches, ubolts and plates, and shock mounts, and make the perches and mounts match the factory 10bolt. Once you get everything located and burned in, its just a matter of bolting back in, and figure out your brakes.
You stock master cylinder will work with these axles, but it is often replaced with a 1ton unit. The brakes on the 60 require alot more fluid volume to operate than the factory 10bolt brakes. As well, the rear calipers take more fluid to operate than the factory drums, so look for one that has close to matched reservoirs as possible.
You would need an OEM 1ton Prop valve, that came off something that has the same fittings as you master cyl, and valved correctly for rear discs. The simpler solution for the prop valve is just grab an aftermarket adjustable one, and tune it to your liking.
As far as your driveshaft lengths:
Both the 60 and 14B are longer when me measured from the axle centerline to the pinion face when compared to the factory 10 bolts.
When swapping to tons, you can A) run the stock dshafts and risk binding at compression. B) have the shafts shortened, c) have new shafts made up.
What we did on our 84 1/2 SUB when we swapped in tons, the factory driveshafts were the correct length because of the 4" lift kit on it. The lift kit made the effective length of the d-shafts longer, while the axles made them shorter. I know for a fact, that with a 4" lift kit, the stock d-shafts are the correct length. I would know more about swapping to rear disc, but we kept the stock drums, and retained the factory e-brakes. We are also running the OEM master cylinder, and prop valve. This also allowed us to use the 14bolt OEM brake lines connected to the OEM frame side rear line. You sacrifice the weight savings and simplicity of rear discs, but you save time in having to find a M/C, prop valve, and put together all the lines and fittings.
If you wanted, get the axles in, keep the drums for now. Then try everything out see what you think, then swap to rear discs later on, just a thought. It would save time and money right now, and you'd be done and driving sooner.
Shoot me a PM or an email, if you have any other specific questions.
) to confirm the R&P ratios MATCH in both axles! IOW, don't assume they are what you were told, etc... pull the covers and read/confirm the numbers for yourself!
