87 XJ D44 build w/ 96 Ford 8.8 Discs : Complete

SlyFox

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2008
Location
Charlotte / Graham, NC
Well after lots of frustration the rear axle build is complete on XJ D44 out of a 87 with Ford 8.8 disc brakes. A great improvment over the crapy D35 I've had back there.
Here is how she began after being pulled out the J/Y:
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New bearings, seals, longer wheel studs (Rear ZJ ones for Disc brakes), and Rubicon plates drilled to fit.
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Here she is before assembly:
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After a fresh coat of paint:
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Fully assembled in the garage:
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Old D35 Comming out:
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No more leaking rear:
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New D44 bolted in under the rig:
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For the E-brake I went with the loop and clamp method:
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Original Drive shaft was 33 1/8" long, it need to be 32" so here it is after a trip to the shop:
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Looks like a good amount of slip yoke travel to me at ride hieght and no vibs at all:
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Here she is sitting out back:
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I can now tell a big diffrence in stoping power going down the road and I no longer have a leaking rear end. Still need to do a little fine tuning on the jeep like installing a ZJ porportioning valve for the disc brake setup. Heading out to Uwharrie this weekend so hopefully this thing will prove it's worth.
Big thanks goes out to Steve and the guys over at TarHeel 4WD and Tim over at Unviersal Driveshafts for doing all the hard work.
Also to everyone else how help and provided advice along the way.
 
What is different about the retainer plates?
 
The origonal plates are for a D44 with drums. You have to do one of 2 things to make them work. You either have to get a spacer from teraflex that will set the properamount of spacing so the axle seals correctly and redill the origonal plate. Or do as I did and get plates for a Rubicon since they come with rear D44's and Disc brakes. You still have to redill the rubicon plates so they bolt up correctly but the proper spacing is there so the axle seals don't leak.
 
Not to be preachy but please dont use concrete blocks on edge as you did in the pics. Its the perfect way to get hurt or killed. Glad to see your swap went well, I would love to do that myself.
 
Not to be preachy but please dont use concrete blocks on edge as you did in the pics. Its the perfect way to get hurt or killed. Glad to see your swap went well, I would love to do that myself.

One I don't like using cinder blocks at all. But what do you mean by on the edge? It may be the pic angle but the jack stands are placed over top of the structure points on the block. If placed with either end the jack stand over top of the hollow portion the cinder block WILL break. That's why there on the "edge" so that the force is directed down the pillars to the ground. Besides the jack was supporting the rear 90% of the time except for when the axle was completly out. I appreciate the concern if you'd like to donate some taller jack stands or 2x6's I'd gladly except them.
 
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