89 blazer electrical question

1stgenxxx

1stgenxxx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2005
Location
Hudson
Well I picked up someone’s old project s-10 blazer last weekend. It's an 89 2 door that has had the top cut off and had a cage installed. It's has the 4.3/700r combo. When I went to pick it up the hood, fenders, tail gate, and doors were off of the truck. It was also missing the rear axle and the ifs had been cut on and partially disassembled. I welded all the cuts in the ifs and put back together what I could....I also put a rear axle in it. I just did this so that I could get it on the trailer. I messed with it for a few minutes today. I put a battery in it and I got no power at all...No interior lights headlights gauges or anything. The only wires that seem to be disconnected are the ones for the power windows and coolant/wiper tanks. The PO said last time he went to crank it...it was like the battery was dead. I know that my battery is good and no wires appear to be disconnected that would give total loss of power to the vehicle. Is there a main fuse that would kill the whole electrical system? I know that there is on the old Toyotas.

I pulled the interior fuse panel cover and found no diagram of what fuse did what.


I expected probelms because the price of the blazer was.......uh FREE
 
I cleaned the terminals and have power to everything but the starter....Mech Will is comming to get it running in the morning. :)
 
Be sure to check your grounds and the connections to the starter as well. Nothing worse than getting PO'd when it's something little.
 
There should be a fused link along the top of the firewall. I can't remember exactly where but that seems to be a fairly common problem on the blazers. It's the main power to the ignition switch.
 
I will look at that in the morning....I'm way too drunk right now
 
Nah....I don't remember what kind it is but it's not an optima. I will never own another one of those pieces of shit!
 
Look along firewall about 2 Inches below the hood line slightly to the left of center.

(Go ahead and tell me on this one year it moved to the right...probably did)
There will be a plastic 2 post connection block.
Make sure there is power there with key in on.
 
SkyHiK5 said:
Look along firewall about 2 Inches below the hood line slightly to the left of center.

(Go ahead and tell me on this one year it moved to the right...probably did)
There will be a plastic 2 post connection block.
Make sure there is power there with key in on.
Click to expand...

I checked that the other day and it was good..The starter is gettin power but not enough to make the starter try to spin
 
Other than the starter, everything else working?
 
Clean your batt connections and try a different fawking battery! 93% of the time, these are the symptoms of shitty battery connection and/or shitty battery.
 
Agree with braxton.
if you know the battery is good.
Check these things.

Are thee cable ends the style with nuts holding the wires on, if so take apart brush up and retighten, maybe with some dielectric grease. Ditto for the battery post clamps, although shouldd be side terminals if original and those tend to make better connection.

Next check the ground. It will likely be ran to the alt. bracket. make sure bolt is tight and clean getting good connection, I am a big fan of adding a strap from engine to frame and running a direct ground to frame and block (not accy bracket).

Beyond that the only other thing that comes to mind without a meter and a few minutes, is the solenoid mounted on the starter, is it "clicking"? If not replace it or preferabbly do a remote solenoid conversion.
 
There is no click at the solenoid. I jumped between the hot and ground and got a tiny spark....nothing like what I should have gotten
 
Back
Top