94-98 12 valve cummins

TPoindexter

Active Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Location
Davie County
want to know first hand experience about 3000 rpm gov. springs and injectors. my truck is a 98 215hp so looking for stage 2 or 75 or 90 + hp injectors. no marine injectors.

want to know name brand and where bought. There is lots of info out there but most everything has people saying its great and others that it junk.

what I looking at is governor spring material and machining.Is the $150 set better than the $85 dollar set exc.

$200 injector set junk or are you running them with 100,000 miles on them exc.
 
Contagious Diesel is the only place I'd buy injectors from. Those guys took damn good care of me. I got a set of 5x.014 injectors and there was no way to adjust my pump to keep them from pumping smoke like a freight train (this was in a First Gen VE pump Cummins), so I wanted to swap to 7x.011s and they swapped me even for the cost of shipping. The 7x.011 nozzles don't have the correct spray angle to match the pistons, so I had him machine the bottom of the injector body, get the proper thickness sealing washers, and hone the tips to get them within a degree.

Call them up and talk to Lee. He'll hook you up. 920-517-1247. I'm betting that a 5x.012 or 5x.014 injector, a governor spring kit, and some pump work would serve you well and you would see a big improvement. You'll like the governor springs coupled with the extra fuel and more power for sure.


Also, if you don't know, learning the sizing of injectors will serve you well. Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, etc means nothing if I don't know the nozzle sizes or how much fuel they flow. If someone tells me they have a 5x.018 injector in an otherwise stock motor, I can tell how stupid they are :D
 
for 3000, buy some washers and shim the stock springs (cue the haters). I made 332/727 back in '09 with that mod and some 5x14's with +.010 lift, set at 280bar. There's really no difference in the spring kits until you get to the 5k kits, where some swap seats and some reuse stock seats.

There are a ton of considerations for injectors, but the bad experiences are mostly from a mixture of the pop pressures not being matched for the set, the wrong spray angle, or the wrong (or incorrectly machined) injector tip. You'll pay ~$500-600 for a nicely rebuilt set with modified tips, probably $400-500 for a used set of the same specification.

Honestly, join Competition Diesel or similar forum and read up there. I bought mine from a guy on the forum - Croatan's advise is sound as well.
 
Dead on about the injectors. I had Contagious up the pop pressure on my 7x.011s as well. The VE fuels hard down low so I had to do all I could to keep it from smoking. It only does now when I lay the hammer down and then it clears up when it hits about 30lbs and pulls hard up to 56 :D. I think they tweaked the lift some, I used a SAC nozzle, and went with 255 bar pop pressure. I think stock was 245 on the VE motors.
 
bahahaha^^^^
 
Hurley said:
for 3000, buy some washers and shim the stock springs (cue the haters). I made 332/727 back in '09 with that mod and some 5x14's with +.010 lift, set at 280bar. There's really no difference in the spring kits until you get to the 5k kits, where some swap seats and some reuse stock seats.

There are a ton of considerations for injectors, but the bad experiences are mostly from a mixture of the pop pressures not being matched for the set, the wrong spray angle, or the wrong (or incorrectly machined) injector tip. You'll pay ~$500-600 for a nicely rebuilt set with modified tips, probably $400-500 for a used set of the same specification.

Honestly, join Competition Diesel or similar forum and read up there. I bought mine from a guy on the forum - Croatan's advise is sound as well.
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I'm a hater!!!!!
No seriously got some good advise here. We install pacbreak springs just because their easy to get a hold of. One thing worth mentioning is go in from the top with the plate out. It's much easier (for me atleast).
We've used some of Westons injectors along with every other brand out there. Had good experiences and bad ones. The cheap Chinese nozzles seem to give a ton of trouble so stay away from those. We just changed 6 cracked nozzles from scheid for that very reason.
A combo I've really liked is a 5x12's and a 7mm dv, 3k's and something like a 62 or 64.
 
Hurley said:
I'm close - 5x14, 7mm +100cc dv's, 4k and a 63. I'm running the Pacbrake 4k's
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It's a really nice setup. Smooth fueling controllable egts and all around good power and fuel mileage. What kind of egts are you seeing with 5x14's? I've always ran 4k's but a couple months back we built a truck and Olee built the transmission and it had a slight stutter. We changed timing and fueling with no change, switched injector washers from thin to thick and got no relief until Olee talked to someone who said 4k spring will cause that stutter. Pulled the center spring and saw major improvement but the stutter was still there. And is still there to this day. I've talked to a couple pump shops that say some pumps respond that way to 4k springs, however I've installed hundreds and that was the first time I ever experienced it!
 
Forgot to mention I've racked the barrels.... so it gets hot - 1300+ on a hard run. I've tried removing the center springs on mine, but it made no difference in performance; honestly the best thing I was able to do was tighten them 1-click, at the expense of now having to give it some pedal when starting. (160 pump)
 
Nah. 56lbs of pressure :D I think I can get up around 1400 at WOT, hard to look at the EGT gauge down near the floor and at the road at the same time!

Ain't it great that with just a little more fuel, some timing, and a good turbo that these things can change completely? It's like a whole new animal!

I'm all about a smooth and reliable setup that's controllable. I can tow, drive it every day, or drag a sled/go wheeling and it's never given me a problem in any situation.
 
Hurley said:
Forgot to mention I've racked the barrels.... so it gets hot - 1300+ on a hard run. I've tried removing the center springs on mine, but it made no difference in performance; honestly the best thing I was able to do was tighten them 1-click, at the expense of now having to give it some pedal when starting. (160 pump)
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I've spent time with a few trucks finding the perfect balance between hard start/touchy throttle & desired performance results and usually end up just a touch tighter than the factory measurements.
 
thanks guys that what i'm looking for some real hands on info not my brother's friends uncle had them and there crap or great.

my set up is a 98 12 valve 3500 4x4 with 410 gears. #10 fuel plate and boost elbow. with the 410 gears 75 mph is about all she has got. I also have 240,000 and injectors are starting to act up.Have also done clutch and gauges.

looking at 17% timing
3000 gov.spring
reman 215 injectors or something a little hotter. I do look at spray angle and injector size just lower price ones list in stages

here's one from me glowshift gauges. I've had them 3 years with no problem and checked them for accuracy. I've got pyro and boost for the money there great
 
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