94 Cummins 47rh Advice

[ObeseFieldMouse]

Truck has a 47rh transmission. When I bought the truck, I had to put a junkyard transmission in it. Few months after putting it in and making sure it was good, I bought an ultra low stall converter from RevMax in charlotte, a modified valve body, and a few other springs, pistons, and struts to go with it. When I bought the truck, it didn't have a fuel plate in it, and had a BHAF and exhaust ready to install. All I've added are gauges. I have had converter bolt issues since install. One stripped out on install, so I ran 5 for a while. Last Sept, it developed a horrendous double knock, so I retorqued the converter bolts. Another broke off in the converter, but this solved the knock. On full throttle it has a scary grindy sound from the bellhousing, so before this weekends Flatts trip, I attempted to retorque the bolts again. Two of them felt like they were going to break, so I decided to use the Powerstroke to get to the Flatts.

First question is this. Does it sound like I'm going to need a flex plate when I pull this converter out? I'll be taking it out and getting it back to RevMax for them to fix it, or replace the back half.

Second question. Does overdrive flare any for you guys at lower RPMs? Converter is a billet single disc so I dont think it's slipping, so I'm assuming the clutches in the overdrive housing are. When I pull transmission, should I plan to rebuild it, and if I do, what goodie bits should I consider putting in it?

Keep in mind, I don't intend to make any more power with the thing, I just want a reliable tow rig capable of dragging approx 12k pounds thru the mountains.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Hurley]

flexplate to converter torque is nooooooootttt that high...

" a modified valve body, and a few other springs, pistons, and struts to go with it." - you need to know what all has been done, as you may just need to replace the clutch packs and tweak the line pressure to be fine. If so, just get a standard rebuild kit and run with it.

Otherwise, off the hip, here's what I like to see in a 47RH:
- Transgo shift kit
- upgraded sonnax Pressure regulating valve (has built in check valve to allow converter charge in park, don't use if the VB has been drilled to allow the same), steel switch valve, steel TV valve, upgraded governor parts
- billet strut & anchor, 3.8 or 4.2 apply lever, and flexible direct drum band
- upgraded front servo (or if you're wanting to spend more $$$ a billet one with (4) seals/rings. The red one has a larger area but may cause bind with the 4.2 lever.. I think that's what I'm experiencing. The black one is $100+ but has stock apply area)
- 'billet' accumulator (red one)
- (+1) friction/steel in direct drum
- stock count in forward clutch pack
- (+1) friction/steel in OD brake pack
- (+1) friction/steel in OD direct pack
- aftermarket 6-pinion rear planetary (original 5-pinion aluminum)
- steel 5-pinion front planetary (original aluminum)
- upgraded OD piston support (has o-ring groove for better sealing)

I am not a builder/mechanic, just an enthusiast.

 

[ObeseFieldMouse]

I'll have to get a hold of my receipt from buying the stuff I put in it. I know theres a bigger strut and apply lever, but i dont remember which lever. there were two pistons i put in. I'll have to call revmax and see what exactly they do to the valve body. Thanks for the reply!