94 YJ d-30

bootsyj

bootsyj

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2010
Location
Concord nc
I hear alot about going to a 1 piece shaft.
what are the benifits? and where do I find
the parts I need? New to 4x4's getting
into the game a little late in life. Any good
advice would be apreciated.
 
We just did this swap in a 93 a couple of months ago. We picked up the shafts from a later madel cherokee at the local u pull it. Then we miced out the shaft and the inside of the housing where the seal would be on the pass. side (no seal there,it's down at the other end of the axle tube).I could throw part numbers at you but really best way is to measure it out and go to a GOOD parts store like napa or carquest and let them match up what you need.

oh,the benefits are larger u- joints and not worrying if the front is engaged or not.

It's kind of involved but the swap is doable if you have a little mechanicle knowledge.
 
so I dont have to worry about frt axle grab when I turn? will it not try to push on pavement? thats really what I was trying to say
 
nope,as long as you are in 2 wheel drive,it'll just free spool.They did away with the vacume operated system of locking the axle together.You change the shafts and it will be like a later tj wrangler.No problems and no worries.
 
The Center Axle Disconnect in your yj is a vacuum disconnect 4wd system that has a tendency to stop working after a few years. Putting in a later model shaft will eliminate the CAD so you'll never have to worry about whether your 4wd works. It won't drag or pull however you may notice a small drop in mpgs. All you have to do is pull an axle shaft from a late model tj/xj at a your local pull a part, crack open the CAD unit which is the box on the pass side of the axle and remove the shift fork, then replace your inner diff. seal, which is part #471763 at any local auto part store, and put your new axle in. Hope that helps.
 
is that number for the replacement seal at the cad? If it is,it's the number we couldn't find.If it is for a seal at the pumpkin where there isn't one,it would be better to measure them out and get the right one.Since the inside diameter of the tube isn't machined for a seal,it can vary enough to keep a seal from installing.I wasted a so called correct seal trying to get it in.
 
cool thanks for the infomation. I had to disconnect the vacum hose cause it wanted to keep my diff locked that is why I was worried about the drag. It was binding when I turned , both wheels wanted to pull. Will look into the shaft swap real soon.
I suspect that the vacum swith at the transfer case is stuck. but again thanks for the info. I had one guy tell me to put a lawn mower throttle cable in the vacum can and make it a manual. Just dont like the Idea of another Knob in my drvers area.
 
dont know, hope not, just bought the jeep last of march.
real clean under the hood and chassis. dont look like anyone ever had it off road much. I cant see why anyone would weld it for the street lol. but you never can tell about some people. The switch is only about 14 bucks so may put one on it and see how it works for awhile. plan on an engine swap in a couple years. If the old 4 banger will live that long.
 
The CAD, Center Axel Disconnect, front axle is basically a redundant system on a YJ. The CAD axle resulted in Jeep trying to eliminate the locking wheel hubs while not creating any issues with the remaining drive line as well as being able to shift on the fly. As it turns out the "New" NP231 in the YJ Wranglers worked just fine for disengaging the front of the drive line without the CAD axle and there was very little parasitic drag from spinning the front axles and drive shaft. By eliminating the CAD there are less moving parts and less to fail on the trail which is why Jeep discontinued using the CAD on TJ's.

Now if your current stock set up is dragging or pulling you may have other issues not related to the axle itself. Even if your axle was engaged it should spin freely while in 2wd. Most likely you have a transfer case issue wit hit not going into 2wd from 4wd.
 
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