96 f250 saddle tank removal

redneckjeep87

redneckjeep87

Landscaper Extroidanaire
Joined
Oct 10, 2007
Location
Woodleaf, NC
Anyone dropped their saddle tank without pulling the bed? I have to repair a rusted brake hard line and it is in the way.

I dropped the skidplate to find that the bolt for the rear strap on the tank is accessed from above. I may be able to finagle it out between that bolt and the heatshield kwhich is accessed from above as well), but it appears that it is going to be a bitch.

Wasnt sure if anyone has been through this or not. I am rather perplexed. Wtf was ford thinking
 
The strap bolts should be accessed from the bottom. Look above the driveshaft for either a bolt going up, or a stud coming down with a nut on it.

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That's a lot of work just for a brake line, I just leave the old line and stab a new line behind the tank and hook it up. I like to use the "armor steel" line it has a plastic coating so you don't have to replace it again for a long time.
 
I had a rusty old junk truck, a 1990 f150. Needed to change the fuel pump, so I cut 3 sides of a 1ft square hole in the bed, bent it up, changed it, then welded the bed back down. Then found out the problem was the dual tank switch. Figures.
 
fordwheelinman said:
The strap bolts should be accessed from the bottom. Look above the driveshaft for either a bolt going up, or a stud coming down with a nut on it.

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I agree, they "should be"....ford decided otherwise. One of them was from the downward side. The rest are on top with nutserts on the bottom. The same went for all the heatshield. Cut away some of the heatshield to shorten up the bolt on the rear strap so i could clear the bed with bolt. Was able to get all the heatshield bolts out, awkward but i got them.
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49willys said:
That's a lot of work just for a brake line, I just leave the old line and stab a new line behind the tank and hook it up. I like to use the "armor steel" line it has a plastic coating so you don't have to replace it again for a long time.
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I feel ya there, definitly thought about it, but i am going to take advantage of the situation and mod the vent so i can fill the tank faster. And also would like to go ahead and clean the pickup screen. Truck has 400k on it and has been sitting for quite a few months since brake line blew out
 
I'm betting that someone else has had the tank out in the past. Probably for broken straps. The clips and bolts are too clean for on, and I have never seen a Ford gas tank strap stick past the frame like that.

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10 4. Well shes out and old rotton line is out. Had to pull it from rabs valve all the way to rear soft line. Thinking im just goimg to order a full stainless prebent kit for the entire truck and be done with it. Foimd them for about 200 bucks
 
You could just get a roll of NiCopp and a inline flaring tool for $80 total. That stuff bends and works super nice. Like pull it straight off the roll straight with no effort.
 
Wound up getting the stainless prebent kit from inline tube. 200 bucks. Got it off of their ebay page, it was 100 dollar cost savings over their website. Was here in 2 days
 
AV8 said:
Let us know how you like it.


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Install on the front to back framerail line went great. Only had to do a mi or amount of tweaking to get the union of the front half and rear half to match up. They were about 1.5" to long overall, but was able to tweak just enough to stay off the framerail slightly and to match up. Definitly impressed with the product, and would recommend it highly. Way faster than bending and flaring your own! Even came with a nifty sheet of labeled pictures of what line is for where. Also came with 2 extensions, one for ext cab trucks and one for crew cab trucks.
 
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