98 Cummings stock 47RE for a mild 500tq
- Thread starter ponykilr
- Start date
Junkyard Dog
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Sanford, NC
I would search out a 5 speed ecm from same year truck. Idk if that one can be re-programmed or not. But that would eliminate any questions since things like charging and crank/cam position go thru ecm
skyhighZJ
Gov retirement < needs to live
- Joined
- May 31, 2012
- Location
- Aberdeen, NC.
The crank sensor send signal to initiate the alt and your RPM on the cluster. With a 12v the ECM has nothing to do with engine management though. On mine I had the Mopar external regulator mod so the alt didn’t need to see the crank sensor. Literally the only thing the sensor ran was RPM on the cluster. Biggest thing is pedal assembly under the dash and the ‘94 has a different dash design so you cannot take the manual cluster and put it in your ‘98 so you’ll be stuck with the PRNDL on your existing cluster.
Croatan_Kid
How's your hammer hangin'?
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2007
- Location
- New Bern
A nicely built 47RE with a good, triple disk converter will solve all your problems 
Can I borrow 5 grandA nicely built 47RE with a good, triple disk converter will solve all your problems
Croatan_Kid
How's your hammer hangin'?
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2007
- Location
- New Bern
Who you going to borrow the rest of the money from?!
Ok so this truck has a fairly large factory trans cooler.
Is it smart at a babied 165k to perhaps have the trans flushed, bands adjusted, line pressure increased?
What will make the trans have a chance? I have increased torque significantly but I don’t drive the truck hard.
Is it smart at a babied 165k to perhaps have the trans flushed, bands adjusted, line pressure increased?
What will make the trans have a chance? I have increased torque significantly but I don’t drive the truck hard.
skyhighZJ
Gov retirement < needs to live
- Joined
- May 31, 2012
- Location
- Aberdeen, NC.
Find a competent trans shop and do what you listed. Cross your fingers and drive the heck out of it. WHEN, the time comes buy an upgraded auto.
Croatan_Kid
How's your hammer hangin'?
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2007
- Location
- New Bern
Flushed? No, just drop the pan and change the filter. You can unhook the cooler lines and back flush the cooler itself, if you want. Adjusting the band is always a good idea. Not sure you can increase line pressure without valvebody mods. Really, the main weak point is the stock clutches'/band's holding capacity and the material they're made from. Same for the converter clutch. It gets to a point where they're simply overpowered and can no longer hold.
When that happens...things get hot and the fluid gets this nice, dark, glittery shimmer to it
For reference:
This is bad...
But this? This is goooood!
I didn't dig in to this stock one very far, but I do know that the band anchor broke, the band was smoked (as was the drum), and somehow it still shifted almost normally.
You'll probably be fine as long as you drive it like you have some sense. This one was not driven that way. Quite the opposite, in fact! Now it doesn't give a damn what gets thrown at it.
When that happens...things get hot and the fluid gets this nice, dark, glittery shimmer to it
For reference:
This is bad...
But this? This is goooood!
I didn't dig in to this stock one very far, but I do know that the band anchor broke, the band was smoked (as was the drum), and somehow it still shifted almost normally.
You'll probably be fine as long as you drive it like you have some sense. This one was not driven that way. Quite the opposite, in fact! Now it doesn't give a damn what gets thrown at it.
Well I think I will buy the 94, it’s not overly rusty compared to what I see around here. It runs but hasn’t in a few years. I believe it could be a cool flatbed (bed isn’t rotten but has a little rust).
—————
So where I ended up a couple of weeks ago….
I kept messing with the AFC on my truck and after a few days, figured out the spring wasn’t long enough to get me where I wanted. I couldn’t get everything to consistently be dialed in because the spring wouldn’t keep pressure on the foot while still allowing enough travel. So off it came again.
This time I put in a longer spring, took 1/8” off the barrel, ground down the cupped washer and started over. I also put the #11 plate full forward and the AFC full forward.
I took my time seeking the sweet spot on the “smoke screw” setting. Guys were telling me how if you sneak up on it taking your time, you will find the magic perfect off idle spool up. Well sure as poop, I found it.
Damn truck will spin right into high.
I believe I have easily added 100 lb/ft, it rips. Acceleration in 3rd is really amazing, I try not to push it hard in 4th so as to not smoke the trans.
I gotta get the Yukon LSD I bought last year in it now for sure, it is so easy to blow the right rear into smoke now.
—————
So where I ended up a couple of weeks ago….
I kept messing with the AFC on my truck and after a few days, figured out the spring wasn’t long enough to get me where I wanted. I couldn’t get everything to consistently be dialed in because the spring wouldn’t keep pressure on the foot while still allowing enough travel. So off it came again.
This time I put in a longer spring, took 1/8” off the barrel, ground down the cupped washer and started over. I also put the #11 plate full forward and the AFC full forward.
I took my time seeking the sweet spot on the “smoke screw” setting. Guys were telling me how if you sneak up on it taking your time, you will find the magic perfect off idle spool up. Well sure as poop, I found it.
Damn truck will spin right into high.
I believe I have easily added 100 lb/ft, it rips. Acceleration in 3rd is really amazing, I try not to push it hard in 4th so as to not smoke the trans.
I gotta get the Yukon LSD I bought last year in it now for sure, it is so easy to blow the right rear into smoke now.
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I have been reading and reading.
What I think I will do is thus….
Drop the pan, install a drain plug in it. Change the filter of course.
Apparently switching to Dex 3 or Ford F fluid is the way. ATF4 is supposedly too slippery. F is the most grabby and is supposed to help the TCC not slip along with increasing line pressure.
On parts….
New billet 2nd gear band strut and anchor because the strut will bend if you increase line pressure. Increase line pressure to around 135ish PSI at WOT in OD, locked. Stock is supposed to be 95ish. So maffs get me around 35-40% more hold….In theory.
No more work really than dropping the valve body and who doesn’t love ATF hair conditioner….amiright?
Supposedly, at the power level I am at, this will hold things without much worry, far in excess of my 500-550 estimated torque.
I will then drain and fill periodically, monitor glitter and keep it till it breaks.
What I think I will do is thus….
Drop the pan, install a drain plug in it. Change the filter of course.
Apparently switching to Dex 3 or Ford F fluid is the way. ATF4 is supposedly too slippery. F is the most grabby and is supposed to help the TCC not slip along with increasing line pressure.
On parts….
New billet 2nd gear band strut and anchor because the strut will bend if you increase line pressure. Increase line pressure to around 135ish PSI at WOT in OD, locked. Stock is supposed to be 95ish. So maffs get me around 35-40% more hold….In theory.
No more work really than dropping the valve body and who doesn’t love ATF hair conditioner….amiright?
Supposedly, at the power level I am at, this will hold things without much worry, far in excess of my 500-550 estimated torque.
I will then drain and fill periodically, monitor glitter and keep it till it breaks.
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