99+ Chevy 1500 4x4 3/4 ton conversion.

The 14bolt sf also came in the Z71 trucks of the late 90s early 2000s then gm brought it back in the 18/19s? I believe. It was also used in the H2 and Tralblazer SS and some random Suburbans and pickups depending on tow packages or not. (Think light duty 2500)

On my buddies Tahoe we used a truck housing (can't remember the year) with a TB SS center section to get a factory eaton locker.
 
Is a sf14 any stronger than the 10 bolt? Is it really worth swapping in?
I can get one for around $150 all day long.
 
XJsavage said:
Is a sf14 any stronger than the 10 bolt? Is it really worth swapping in?
I can get one for around $150 all day long.
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Yes, I believe a sf14 is more like the ford 9" or kinda like a sf dana 60. Bigger gears bigger bearings when compared to the 10 bolt. While it's not the full floater it is still an upgrade from the 10bolt.
 
SF 14 bolt has a 9.5" ring gear. A 10 bolt has a 8.2" ring gear. The shafts and bearings are probably bigger too.
 
XJsavage said:
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Pair of Forged 6 on 5.5 Bolt Pattern 14 Bolt Wheel Hubs

Check out the deal on Pair of Forged 6 on 5.5 Bolt Pattern 14 Bolt Wheel Hubs at RuffStuff Specialties
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Well, dang.
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You'll need custom machined rotors, some random disc brake kit, high dollar wheel studs, etc to do that. Been there, done that. In hindsight, wouldn't have been much more costly to swap in an 8 lug front and keep the 14 stock.
 
Jody Treadway said:
You'll need custom machined rotors, some random disc brake kit, high dollar wheel studs, etc to do that. Been there, done that. In hindsight, wouldn't have been much more costly to swap in an 8 lug front and keep the 14 stock.
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Yeah it'll be expensive. A lot more than I want to spend now that I've written it down on paper.

So what's the most logical thing to do?
Swap in a sf14?
I'm incredibly gun shy about 10 bolts. I broke the 10 bolt in my Yukon XL a few years ago. Luckily the local junkyard had one and my brother in law was willing to help me swap it out. I really don't trust them.
 
XJsavage said:
Yeah it'll be expensive. A lot more than I want to spend now that I've written it down on paper.

So what's the most logical thing to do?
Swap in a sf14?
I'm incredibly gun shy about 10 bolts. I broke the 10 bolt in my Yukon XL a few years ago. Luckily the local junkyard had one and my brother in law was willing to help me swap it out. I really don't trust them.
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Really depends on what you are trying to accomplish.
Swapping a SF 14 is an option. As is adding a quality LSD and better shafts to your existing one. You having access to a ton of equipment as well as your own skills, could redrill a SF14 down to 6 on 5.5.
 
I think for just towing a single car hauler and your rig, I would freshen up the outer bearings and rock out. Been a lot of folks towing a rig with a half ton for a long time. I wouldn’t worry about it if you’re only driving it and towing. Now if you wanna throw power at it and do smoky burnouts all the time, upgrade the shafts and locker.

Otherwise you may be overthinking it.
 
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77GreenMachine said:
I think for just towing a single car hauler and your rig, I would freshen up the outer bearings and rock out. Been a lot of folks towing a rig with a half ton for a long time. I wouldn’t worry about it if you’re o my driving it and towing. Now if you wanna throw power at it and do smoky burnouts all the time, upgrade the shafts and locker.

Otherwise you may be overthinking it.
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Well, this rear axle was old man driven with street tires and 160k miles.
My Yukon was 260k with 315s, pulling a 15ft jon boat yeehawin up a steep boat ramp when it gave out.

Yeah I'm just overly paranoid for no reason. Freshen up it is.
 
XJsavage said:
Well, this rear axle was old man driven with street tires and 160k miles.
My Yukon was 260k with 315s, pulling a 15ft jon boat yeehawin up a steep boat ramp when it gave out.

Yeah I'm just overly paranoid for no reason. Freshen up it is.
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Lol yeah normal driving and maintaining it should hold up just fine. But to reiterate, bigger trans cooler, good brake controller. Rock out.
 
77GreenMachine said:
Lol yeah normal driving and maintaining it should hold up just fine. But to reiterate, bigger trans cooler, good brake controller. Rock out.
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What's your recommendation for overhaul kit and traction aid? Jake (Croatankid) mentioned TruTrac.
 
XJsavage said:
What's your recommendation for overhaul kit and traction aid? Jake (Croatankid) mentioned TruTrac.
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I’m not the best person to answer that. But I see the Master has already given his wise words.
 
Oh yeah, something to help your 4l60e survive under load, make sure to use the manual function of the shifter (ie positions 1, 2 and 3) instead of letting it shift on its own. The bands that are applied are different depending if you manually shift or not.
Also, never load it with the OD on, but you know that.

Some info on the cooler to get and how to install it:

Download this link
www.eadperformance.com/trans%20cooler/Tru%20Cool%20Install%20Guide.doc

Read these:

THE Tru-Cool 40K GVW Transmission Cooler Install Thread - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums

GM Drivetrain & Suspension - THE Tru-Cool 40K GVW Transmission Cooler Install Thread - I installed one of these way back in the day(2004) and since then get questions about it about once a week sometimes more. This last time around when I installed one I took a bunch of pictures and will be...
www.performancetrucks.net
www.gmtruckclub.com

Tru-Cool 40k transmission cooler is really huge !

www.gmtruckclub.com www.gmtruckclub.com

Some premade mounts (but I'm sure you can drill a flat plate):
atomicfabandperformance.com

TruCool 40k Trans Cooler Mount - Atomic Fabrication

Laser cut aluminum trucool 40k transmission cooler mount for the 99-13 trucks. Cooler sold separately (I do not sell them). No hardware included (1/4" or 6mm is recommended).
atomicfabandperformance.com atomicfabandperformance.com

Link for the cooler:
Amazon product ASIN B0060NKA1U(but you can find it cheaper on ebay sometimes)

This cooler works amazing.
So good that's what I'm using on my buggy too.
 
Bebop said:
Oh yeah, something to help your 4l60e survive under load, make sure to use the manual function of the shifter (ie positions 1, 2 and 3) instead of letting it shift on its own. The bands that are applied are different depending if you manually shift or not.
Also, never load it with the OD on, but you know that.

Some info on the cooler to get and how to install it:

Download this link
www.eadperformance.com/trans%20cooler/Tru%20Cool%20Install%20Guide.doc

Read these:

THE Tru-Cool 40K GVW Transmission Cooler Install Thread - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums

GM Drivetrain & Suspension - THE Tru-Cool 40K GVW Transmission Cooler Install Thread - I installed one of these way back in the day(2004) and since then get questions about it about once a week sometimes more. This last time around when I installed one I took a bunch of pictures and will be...
www.performancetrucks.net
www.gmtruckclub.com

Tru-Cool 40k transmission cooler is really huge !

www.gmtruckclub.com www.gmtruckclub.com

Some premade mounts (but I'm sure you can drill a flat plate):
atomicfabandperformance.com

TruCool 40k Trans Cooler Mount - Atomic Fabrication

Laser cut aluminum trucool 40k transmission cooler mount for the 99-13 trucks. Cooler sold separately (I do not sell them). No hardware included (1/4" or 6mm is recommended).
atomicfabandperformance.com atomicfabandperformance.com

Link for the cooler:
Amazon product ASIN B0060NKA1U(but you can find it cheaper on ebay sometimes)

This cooler works amazing.
So good that's what I'm using on my buggy too.
Click to expand...
Really an easy install with that guy's kit. Pretty shady though. Just paypal some cash to random guy and hope parts come in. My brackets got dropped off a truck and run over at some point in transit, took about 3 weeks and a post office inquiry to find them.
 

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There are also 99+ 1500HD and 2500LD trucks that have 9.5 SF 14 bolts. Nab one of those and slap on some 1.5" thick 8x6.5 to 6x5.5 adapters. Boom. Done. Retain the rear discs and parking brake with another bolt-in axle option courtesy of GM keeping everything the same spring spacing :D

Or just rebuild the 10 bolt (AAM 8.6) as mentioned. They're not terrible.
 
We swapped one of the disc braked GM9.5 SF 14 bolts into a 1500 for a guy. Was a bitch to cut everything off but otherwise the swap went great.
Re-used his calipers, but the discs were slightly larger.
Had to change the u joint out for a conversion joint. 1330 to 1350 iirc

Spicer 5-648X U-Joint Kit

Driveshaft length was fine. Just different joints.
E brake and everything swapped over. We re-used all factory brackets except leaf perches.
 

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Van-go said:
We swapped one of the disc braked GM9.5 SF 14 bolts into a 1500 for a guy. Was a bitch to cut everything off but otherwise the swap went great.
Re-used his calipers, but the discs were slightly larger.
Had to change the u joint out for a conversion joint. 1330 to 1350 iirc

Spicer 5-648X U-Joint Kit

Driveshaft length was fine. Just different joints.
E brake and everything swapped over. We re-used all factory brackets except leaf perches.
Click to expand...

That would have been a bolt in deal if whoever had sourced a truck axle!
 
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