Advice for cutting tree down

X2, my same protocol. The only thing I’d add is maybe a snatch block low on something where you want it to fall so it gets pulled to exactly where you want it. Pull with vehicle as a winch won’t typically be fast enough to make sure it gets headed in right spot. With a meaty hinge cut its going to be fine.
I run a snatch block but thats because my cable is too long. Running it low is pretty standard. I mean if your cable is run up into the tree then its pretty obvious you'll put your snatch block at the bottom of another to pull from.
 
Jeeps are for wimps. :-D @shawn


On a serious note I would pull it with a winch or rope the way you want it to go, then cut. Small tree so should pull pretty easy. You might can uproot it with a strong enough rope, gets rid of the stump too.

I winched about a 15" oak that was leaning about 75° back upright and then down the other way, used the 30k lb winch on the wrecker.

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On a serious note, don't listen to any of the suggestions on the back cut. You want an open notch on the felling side, plunge cut to make the hinge, then wedge it and cut the trigger wood last. Making a deep notch and trying to chase to the hinge is a recipe for a barber chair, especially if it's a gum or poplar. That shit will kill you.
 
@Tacoma747 no crap @rcalexander105 needs a hand tomorrow. Have you got anything I can take to him off wallburg rd near HP tomorrow?

I actually don't have anything here that is tagged. I sold the wrecker. I only have one driveable truck, but it still needs more before I can actually drive it on the road.
 
On a serious note, don't listen to any of the suggestions on the back cut. You want an open notch on the felling side, plunge cut to make the hinge, then wedge it and cut the trigger wood last. Making a deep notch and trying to chase to the hinge is a recipe for a barber chair, especially if it's a gum or poplar. That shit will kill you.

I guess I am just ignorant and from the old school of watching the old timers to learn but I don’t have the slightest clue what those fancy words mean regarding trigger wood and plunge cut. But I may just be a newb.
 
I guess I am just ignorant and from the old school of watching the old timers to learn but I don’t have the slightest clue what those fancy words mean regarding trigger wood and plunge cut. But I may just be a newb.
Yeah, that's for people who never learned how to cut but have decided to hit the youtoobs and get edumacated. I've used a trigger one time and honestly it wasn't needed. Dude just wanted to do it.
 
Yeah, that's for people who never learned how to cut but have decided to hit the youtoobs and get edumacated. I've used a trigger one time and honestly it wasn't needed. Dude just wanted to do it.

I’ve seen many tree crews use this style. It is used for heavy leaners to prevent barber chair. Once you’ve been next to a tree that does that you’ll never take the risk again, if you survive.
 
When I was working with my dad doing tree work, we cut leaners like this many times. If its leaning too far to pull it past center in the opposite direction of the lean, tie a rope in the opposite direction of the lean for the tree to pivot off of, then pull and fell the tree 90 degrees to the lean. It works great and your pivot rope keeps it from falling on your shop. And if for some reason your pull rope breaks, it doesn't slingshot back onto your shop. We used a rope come along to pull the pivot rope tight. Be careful with how much tension you put on it. Especially if its a white pine. I can't really tell from the picture. And also, NEVER make an angled back cut on a tree like this. If it sits back on the back cut, the pressure from the angle will compromise your hinge wood much faster as it puts a horizontal force and a vertical force on it. A straight back cut puts mostly a vertical pulling force on your hinge. A lot of people think the angle will hold it and keep it from falling better than a straight cut but this is not true. My dad had 50 years experience between logging and owning a tree service and I managed to learn a few things over the years of working with him on my days off.
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When I was working with my dad doing tree work, we cut leaners like this many times. If its leaning too far to pull it past center in the opposite direction of the lean, tie a rope in the opposite direction of the lean for the tree to pivot off of, then pull and fell the tree 90 degrees to the lean. It works great and your pivot rope keeps it from falling on your shop. And if for some reason your pull rope breaks, it doesn't slingshot back onto your shop. We used a rope come along to pull the pivot rope tight. Be careful with how much tension you put on it. Especially if its a white pine. I can't really tell from the picture. And also, NEVER make an angled back cut on a tree like this. If it sits back on the back cut, the pressure from the angle will compromise your hinge wood much faster as it puts a horizontal force and a vertical force on it. A straight back cut puts mostly a vertical pulling force on your hinge. A lot of people think the angle will hold it and keep it from falling better than a straight cut but this is not true. My dad had 50 years experience between logging and owning a tree service and I managed to learn a few things over the years of working with him on my days off.
3373d47a756b36509262841eb9e7071f.jpg


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agreed. Just make sure your notch is wide enough so it doesn’t close before you’re ready for your hinge to break.


This was a fun one.
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Sitting here staring at this dead tree in my neighbors back yard ... my garage right now.....
Thats an insurance claim for sure. How much do you want a new garage?
 
Quick update, the bastard is down and cut up. They are coming out to regrade my shop area tomorrow and the guy said he'd take out the stump so I wanted to get it done before they got here.

Tied it off, notched it and dropped it right where I wanted. They are going to clear the stump and level this area and gravel it so I can have a trailer parking area for the boat, camper and car trailer.
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