Advice on getting a better crawl ratio

In our region and some of the slick goopy stuff we encounter I often find myself needing wheel spin. My 4banger TJ with 33s and 4:88s was perfect for low technical stuff and still had the wheel speed needed in 2nd-3rd. Often cruised the trails between 2nd-3rd. I went to 36s and it was still acceptable however I really wanted 5:13s to make up for it.
I think it all depends on wheeling style, but I wouldn't want to be too low without the option of having plenty of wheel speed when needed. However I am a fan of skinny pedal and wheeling hard at times.
I really think you would like the axle gears just fine, then decide if you want to go lower later. Being super low will not help when you encounter a muddy rock face or have muddy tires on rocks. Need to be able to sling it out/heat the tires a little.
 
Another big plus of the D300 is it being significantly shorter than NP231w/SYE. TJ rear driveshaft length is already too short.

Regarding gearing, here's what I've had through the years:
Stock 4.0, NV3550, NP231w/2.72, 4.56's, 32" MT's - Too low, but only had it for a couple weeks
Stock 4.0, NV3550, NP231w/2.72, 4.56's, 33" MT's - Still too low, but very tolerable, just revved too high
Stock 4.0, NV3550, NP231w/2.72, 4.56's, 35" MT's - Good all around, occasionally have to shift out of 5th on the highway because of insufficient power
Stroker 4.6, NV3550, NP231w/2.72, 4.56's, 35" MT's/AT's - Awesome everywhere! Plenty of power on the street, reasonable revs, still low enough offroad
Stroker 4.6, NV3550, NP231w/2.72, 4.56's, 36" Iroks - Still good on the street,but 5th was occasionally lacking (36" Iroks were 37" tall, but light)
Stroker 4.6, NV4500, D300w/2.62, 4.56's, 38" SX's on H1's - Needs more gearing everywhere. The 38" SX's were 37", but tire/wheel combo weighed 170lbs EACH
Stroker 4.6, NV4500, D300w/4:1, 4.56's, 38" SX's on H1's - Great offroad, weak on road. Accel is fine in 1st-3rd gear, and can carry highway speed (barely).
Stroker 4.6, NV4500, D300w/4:1, 4.56's, 38.5" Creepys on Alloys - Great offroad, Pretty good on the road too. Still lacking in 5th gear, but reasonable.
Cardinal sin: 1 tons gone, swapped in D30/D35 for a couple months, then 9" rear, now HPD30 and Ford 8.8
Stroker 4.6, NV4500, NP231w/2.72, 4.88's, 35" MT's - Plenty of power but uncomfortable on highway, fine around town, good offroad.

Now I never drive it because I don't like it because it looks stupid to me without the 1 tons and it rides/handles terrible. I wanted to go back down and save weight (jeep was over 5200lbs for quite a while) but it just doesn't look right since I saw it with full widths for about 10 years.
 
I always found that my stock TJ on 31's and 3.73s never really crawled slow enough for general trail usage without riding the clutch more than I personally liked. My XJ on 33's and 4.56s I thought was a pretty sweet spot to be for general trail usage and not heavy crawling.
 
I appreciate all the opinions, and I think I will take your advice, and go ahead with my planned 4.88 gears and see how I like the crawling with that. Also with that, @shawn, I get to keep my "fancy belly skid crap" haha :D
 
BigClay said:
I appreciate all the opinions, and I think I will take your advice, and go ahead with my planned 4.88 gears and see how I like the crawling with that. Also with that, @shawn, I get to keep my "fancy belly skid crap" haha :D
Click to expand...
You are doing it all wrong see. Now is when you start cussing at people and tell us we're all wrong and for your style a double 231 is best.
 
A double 231 would be sweet. You wouldn't even need a rear driveshaft. You could hook the t-case output right to the rear diff with a little spud shaft.
 
shawn said:
A double 231 would be sweet. You wouldn't even need a rear driveshaft. You could hook the t-case output right to the rear diff with a little spud shaft.
Click to expand...
Yep. I would loosen the cross member bolts and use a big washer and old valve springs. Sounds legit.
 
shawn said:
A double 231 would be sweet. You wouldn't even need a rear driveshaft. You could hook the t-case output right to the rear diff with a little spud shaft.
Click to expand...
Just make sure you use poly motor mounts. The rubber ones won't hold up as long (but the rubber do flex out better).
 


Write your reply...
Back
Top