Advise needed from seasoned Toyota drivers

upnover

upnover

Grumpy, decrepit Old Man
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Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Morganton NC
My son has a 85 Toyota truck he is gonna be heeling. We got to talking and since neither of us have experience in the Yoda's, I thought it would a good idea to hear from some of the Yoda guys as to what he should carry out on trail rides for spares and repairs.

Just to let you know what he has in the truck I am sure would be helpful.
85 truck with a 22RE engine
5 speed, with doubler, twin stick rear case with 4.7 gears, and a rear drive disconnect.
5.29:1 gears. Lock Rite front, welded rear. Long fields in front.
39.5 TSL's hoping to find a set of 37 or 38's to buy or trade.
Dual batteries, 10 gallon fuel cell.
Hydro assist.
Front PTO shaft, rear schedule 80 shaft.

I have seen many carrying spare drive shafts, but only seen one change one out. It was a stock twisted one.
I figure u-joints would be a good spare, are they all the same size?
Bolts and nuts, what are most popular sizes and lengths?
Maybe a spare fuel pump, what PSI pump does it require?
Also seen the top four bolts on the knuckle fail, so I assume that would be a good spare to carry too.

What else? need good ideas

Thanks in advance
 
10, 12 and 14 mil will pretty much take the truck apart.

Ujoints are tough as hell, you usuualy will twist a shaft before you pop a joint, if your gonna get spares. Get oem from toyota.
 
THe ones he has are different from what I have seen. Fronts have a grease fitting in the cap, rears do also, but has a cap covering them. Are these OEM? or aftermarket?
 
I am in no way seasoned but a few things that could be useful to at least have back at camp....

Spare geared 3rd member
Knuckle studs
Hub studs
Spare knuckles
Bearing/seals
Full set of spare stock shafts (even with Longfields)
Spare set of leaf springs
Driveshafts
Welding rods (6011, 6010, etc)
Scrap metal/tubing
Spark plugs

It's a Toyota so the one thing you don't bring will break. :D
 
I always ran the driveshafts backwards, slip yoke toward the pinions. I also ran the slipyoke with the weakest u joint I could find.........call it a fuseable link. the reason I did this was that 4 bolts on the flange and slip another flange and ujoint in in 5 minutes, and not break the 3rd member!
 
Also you can swap out the mini axels for FJ axels and gain a 9 1/2 ring gear! Knuckels interchange with the stouter axels.
 
Also seen the top four bolts on the knuckle fail, so I assume that would be a good spare to carry too.
chip just torque them down before everyride i think that's alot of problem with them,but hydro is alot harder on them. i have no problems with mine i just torque them before i head out.
 
upnover said:
THe ones he has are different from what I have seen. Fronts have a grease fitting in the cap, rears do also, but has a cap covering them. Are these OEM? or aftermarket?
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i would use toyota oem they are strong,i learned my lesson by putting brute force in on the water fall :shaking:
 
yup oem joints are best. (even old used ones)
check knuckle studs, I plan to torque mine (havn't looked up how much yet) but then I can monitor if/when it starts loosing torque vs just keep tightening them.

FWIW you can upgrade to the 6 shooter stuff so at least there is an upgrade path.

Most depends on your driving style though with that size tire anything is fair game..

On the diffs watch the setup, really crank on the carrier preload.

Bottom line there are TONs of upgrade parts since many folks are running very similar setups.
 
Carry a spare rear shaft. A spare Lockout is always helpful. I carry a complete one because all the parts are there. I also carry some of the relays that are in the fuse box.
 
The best thing you can carry is as little as possible. Keep the weight down on toyota parts and they hold up incredibly well. Get heavy with it and ring and pininons, rear shafts, output shafts are all going to cause problems.

like everyone else has said, check the torque on the knuckle studs before every trip and they usually will not give any problems.
 
Do the knuckle studs back out? nuts loosen? or do the bolts stretch? What kinda torque do they require? Should they be lock tighted? sillyconed? or?
 
The knuckle studs have cone washers underneath. No matter whether they are torqued to the "proper" rating or not they tend to loosen up. Just be sure to check them and make sure they are snug at the beginning of each trip and you're usually good to go. Like cumminsdzl said carry as little as possible and keep the weight down and the truck will survive surprisingly well.
 
And keep a couple drive shaft bolts on hand because they are the only bolt on the whole rig that is the same pitch as the brake line stuff so if you bust a brake line you can just plug it and keep on trucking. :beer:
 
lbyota85 said:
And keep a couple drive shaft bolts on hand because they are the only bolt on the whole rig that is the same pitch as the brake line stuff so if you bust a brake line you can just plug it and keep on trucking. :beer:
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That plus they seem to have a way of coming loose regularly. About every other trip someone is stopping to bolt a shaft back up.
 
On the drive shaft bolts replace the spilt washers with new ones and loctite. As for the studs with the cones, I went to the local Nuts and Bolts place and got steel lockers and new split washers and torqued to spec and never had a problem after the new studs were installed.
 
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