I run autometer gauges usually. I like mechanical gauges in a performance car because I think they can be more accurate. But on a street vehicle or if your mounting them on the a pillar electric are easier to work with. I have mechanical gauges in my 67 Fairlane and on my truggy.
I don't like digital gauges unless they also have a sweeping light bar like an analog gauge because they're harder to read under stress. For instance my gauges generally point straight up when things are OK so I can glance down and see three needles (oil, temp, voltage) between 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock and I know to keep hammering away. Race cars take it a step further and will install the gauges crooked so the needles point 12 o'clock exactly. With digital you have to focus on the number (while bouncing off road) interpret the info and decide if its good or not. Digital is OK if there's a light bar that sweeps around the outside like analog or if it'll change the LED colors to red or something but that's the only way I'd run one.
Is there a reason for that besides the plastic tube is like having a whole spool of weed eater string coiled under the dash? I currently have an analog plastic tube gauge for op and would like to upgrade (leaks at the fittings).
Copper is less likely to melt or get cut. Its more durable. Twist a coil or two into it between the engine and firewall to allow for chassis flex similar to brake lines
I like it better because you can bend it away from places you don't want it to be, it holds up better to high heat, looks better, seals better to the gauge and the fitting. Under the hood where it is out in the open, I put some vacuum hose over it to protect it from crap coming in while on the trail.
I'm a cheap wad and do the lawn trimmer string / plastic and have never had a problem? Have ran many over many years. Trick is to get it tight the first time. But they do crimp really easily in the process. Tie it up real good and don't even breath on it ever again.
If you do plastic oil pressure line, just remember that the crush sleeve in all the fittings is only usable 1 time. They sell them in a packet separately.
Old school: Mechanical Oil / Electric water. Gives an accurate reading always and every time.
I always pay the extra and do Volt meter instead of Amp meter if buying a 3 gage cluster. Can't go wrong reading 14 volts. Amps only seem to really tell you something on start-up and then they are real iffy.
Also, I like my water temp wired hot at all times. Especially when you are over heating and pull over you can watch the temp without everything else turned on by the key. Same for a radio or a CB but that's another story...
If $25 is too much for the last time you will ever need to buy it, and a guarantee that it will never break and the assurance you can disconnect and reconnect it as often as you like then good luck.
For a daily driver sure.
For a trail only rig, mechanical has no current draw while sitting over long periods. Plus it has less parts prone to failure and is more accurate than an electrical gauge. That's why I prefer mechanical.
Mechanical vs electrical have their share of advantages and disadvantages.
For me, my gauges will be in a dedicated gauge pod that I will have a master quick disconnect. Having mechanical gauges in this instance isn't as practical.
The way I designed my electrical is I have two master kill switches in my cab that splits power to everything electrical, half of it at a time. One half contains gauges/gauge lights, turn signal related flashers and relays and also f/r led lighting, just about anything id need in an emergency. That half has roughly 40amp draw while the other half has everything else non emergency related at about 50 amp draw. Going all mechanical would cut down draw on switch one to 30amp or less.
Have ran many over many years. Trick is to get it tight the first time. But they do crimp really easily in the process. Tie it up real good and don't even breath on it ever again.
