Aluminum Radiators

FELNTPSY

Active Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Morehead City
SO....are aluminum radiators worth it. I did a 350 swap about 1.5 years ago. With the swap I installed a conversion 3 row radiator. I don't use the tranny cooler (have a separate RV cooler). I am still not satisfied with the way the temp climbs on this thing. I have not used it much since the swap (only about 8-10 rides).

At URE this weekend with the new axles and letting the pedal push, I did get it to climb to 230 degrees trying to climb the ledge at Daniel (but it was a pretty cool day 65-70 degrees). I have a custom aluminum fan shroud, flex fan, and run a 180 degree thermostat. I don't really want to go elec. fan (too many electric hookups alread winch, aux. lights, cb, etc.)

Some places I've looked claim that a 2 row aluminum radiator cools better than a 4 row steel/brass unit.

What do ya'll think....should I go aluminum?

I want this thing to run cool no matter what the temp outside is.
 
I have read this from a well respected source:

Aluminum does not ultimately cool any better than a copper rad. However, it reacts more quickly to temperature changes.. it's what racecars need as they hammer down the straight, then coast down into a corner.

Us? we ride similarly all day.. Aluminum isn't much help.

What's the dimensions of the radiator? Mine's a 4-core cruiser rad, which is still pretty narrow.

You should probably look into having yours re-cored to 4, or just increase to a larger size rad and make new mounts. That's my plan for the next motor.. just get a stock radiator for a V-8 car.
 
Thanks Rich,

Radiator is a stock dimension Cj radiator that has the chevy conversion inlet/outlet......fan clearance is not an issue...in fact a 1 in thicker radiator would acutally help close the fan in the shroud a bit better, and I could use fan spacers to keep at least 1/2-1/4" out of the shroud.

Any other thoughts?

What about HI-flow water pump.(Flowcooler)...does it work? I've always thought that if you move coolant too fast it won't give it time to pass thru the rad to cool properly.....fact, fiction, or my stupid ASSumption?
 
I wouldn't touch a four-core. Too much metal, not enough air movement. Damn hard to pull enough air through them to make a difference over a 3 core. At least when you're moving slow and depending on the fan to move all the air.

Getting a radiator that's physically larger will make the biggest difference.

Both my trucks run aluminum 2-cores, FWIW.

This is a great thread with lots of solid tech:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250185
 
SO, what about the FlowKooler water pump....good or bad....more flow (Turberlance?) or less.....just stay with stock pump?

I bought the radiator new (from Mepco IIRC)....I might go have it checked and serviced to see if it is blocked (I've had new chit not work before).

Thanks for the replies.....great info on Pirate, but my head hurts now! :eek:
 
I wouldn't mess with a high flow pump... my biggest change came from getting a NEW (not reman) water pump from NAPA. That helped a bunch.

Might also wanna swap out the 180 t-stat for a 195.. SBC's run better there anyway.
 
I run a sbc 350 in my YJ , had the same prob....
my fix was a griffen alumimum radiator (2 row, but 1" wide )
also put a Weiand action-plus alum. water pump. flex fan.
put a pusher 2000 cfm electric fan on front of the radiator for the slow stuff.

End of prob.... never gets above 185 to 195 ....

Jeepskeet
 
Lee,

Stay away from the Flow cooler, Every one I know that has on has high RPM cooling problems.
I think that at higher RPMs the coolent doesn't stay in the Rad. long enough.

What fan do you have?? How many blades?? How is the fan clutch??

Check the Rad for blackage.
Check timing.

You also have the 2 pusher fans, They might be part of the problem!!

Not apples to apples but I have no probs with mine until I start playing with the timing.(Hell I have to block off part of my Rad when temps are under 60.

You may consider louvers or raising the back of the hood similar to what the XJ guys do.

Let us know!!
 
Plan now is to remove the two pusher fans (although they are only blocking where the motor of the fan is...about 3" diam. circle). The radiator is gonna be checked by a guy here in Havelock 1st of the week. Then I'm gonna screw with the timing if that doesn't work.

I have screwed with the timing some before....not getting any detonation, throttle is very responsive, and fuel seems to be burning a bit rich if any thing.

But, if all else fails I will switch to some other flavor of rad.
(oh, running a 6 blade flex fan, no clutch, and it sticks about 1/2-1/4" out of the back of the aluminum shroud I've got.
 
Lee when I was having cooling problems, I was told that optimal fan position was 1/2 in shroud+ 1/2 out of shroud, Something about the 1/2 out portion slinging air out instead of back( sort of a scavaging effect) Sounds like you may have a combination of things in play working against you!!

You may have an issue with the two "extra" coolers under your hood. Could they be moved??

With the set up you have I still think some kind of hood venting would be bennificial, especialy for the under hood coolers you have.
 
When I installed the 60s I hacked the inside of my fenderwells out...there is a huge gap now, so I don't know how much more I could vent it short of putting a cowl in the hood ( :gay: on a jeep IMO.)......I am gonna move the tranny cooler to the inside of the cab and mount one of the fans on it.....might get some air moving in my cab that way.....its worth a shot.

The fan does stick out about 1/2 inch out the back of the shroud. The problem was worse before I removed the tranny and p/s cooler from in front of the rad......stays cooler now, but I would like to have it stay right around 195-210 no matter what.....maybe I'm just dreaming?
 
Had same prob. Backed off the timing made the biggest difference. I also use a Ford Taurus electric puller fan. Works Great, clips right in, no mounting BS. Have spare fan if'n you're interested.

JB
 
IN2JEEPN said:
Lee when I was having cooling problems, I was told that optimal fan position was 1/2 in shroud+ 1/2 out of shroud, Something about the 1/2 out portion slinging air out instead of back( sort of a scavaging effect) Sounds like you may have a combination of things in play working against you!!

You may have an issue with the two "extra" coolers under your hood. Could they be moved??

With the set up you have I still think some kind of hood venting would be bennificial, especialy for the under hood coolers you have.
Click to expand...

I read an article in JP magazine I think that talks about the 1/2 in and 1/2 half out as well. It sounds like you have more than a heating problem. I may have heard it wrong but you have a 350 chevy with a belt driven fan and two electric fans. I would understand if you added one fan to help cool it if it got hot rock climbing but two fans ??. Seems to me like there is some other problem. I had a jeep with a ford 302 it had a 14" electric fan and a 10" electric fan. these fans where more than enough to cool it. I've always thought fords ran hotter because they are setup lean from the factory(may not be true). The fans were from advance auto so they weren't anything fancy. Do you have a showd? is the clutch fan enguaging? is there enough coolant in the radiator? is the thermostat good? have you checked the compression? Doesn't sound like a cooling problem. I could be completely wrong but mine never went over 220 with the 14" alone I didn't like it running at that so I got another one though. Could be your water pump? Beets me. :Rockon:
 
I didn't clear this up I guess......the two pusher fans were on there from last summer in Arkasas....my mess was hot down there! I backed the timing off since and it is where it should be to run good (IMO) like I said responsive, if I back it off anymore it doesn't run worth !@#.! I don't use the fans anymore, just been to lazy to take them off...and liked the idea of "just in case" it got hot again.

I'm gonna pull them tomm. (if the damn wind stops blowin') and see how that does.....if it still gets hot, then I might just put a 10" on at the bottom of the rad and put a therostat on it to come no at 200 degrees....

we shall see....................... :rolleyes:
 
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