Anyone got secrets for bleeding a clutch in 98 TJ? (Or want some cash?)

hscrugby

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
OK, got the stroker, got it all bolted up. No clutch disengage.
Assumed clutch was bad. (I might have forgotten to center it, and might have damaged the friction disk. Oops)
Replaced clutch.
Seemed good for about 2 miles, then complete loss of pressure again.
Replaced slave cylinder, same thing, noticed leaking fluid from master cylinder.
Replaced that, new one leaked immediately. Exchanged that one for a good one.
Tried bleeding it, seemed good, but now it seems to have gotten air in the line again.

Any ideas? Or anyone want to swing by and do it? I'm in N Raleigh. Will toss some cash if you can get this fixed.
Stupid jeep. :D
 
yager said:
How exactly are you bleeding it? It's really a 2person job.. Where in N. Raleigh ?
Click to expand...
tried the method of buddy making sure it didn't go empty while I pushed the rod on the slave cylinder.
Tried the pumping the crap out of the clutch pedal, the bleeder valve while present, is allegedly pointless?
(I can't even get it to open to be honest)

Off of Leesville and 540.
I think my buddy is more annoyed at it than I am to be honest. :lol:
 
those are a one peace system, they are not bleedable, $150 from car quest for a new one... it is a closed system with the master and slave along with the line that comes pre-bled and all. just bolt up and go...
 
I have swapped a new slave onto mine before. It's supposed to be a closed system, but I've done it (97 tj 2.5) Not sure if it's different on a 4.0. I bled mine by just pumping the clutch pedal a million times. It bled all of the air out of the line and was good to go.
 
After arguing and then buying a sealed system from 4wp (even if I have to deal with Greg still kind of like supporting local?)
It wasn't bleeding it. Its not depressing enough. I put a spacer on the slave cylinder (on the end of the plastic cap) and it works perfectly. :( nothing like throwing money at a problem.
 
You can buy it as a sealed system, AND you can replace each part individually. I replaced my master and slave separately. They can be a bitch to bleed, but it is very doable.

Basically, with a full master, remove the slave, and compress the rod manually, like 100 times. Let it sit overnight, and repeat if necessary.


And yes, it definitely needs the little piece of plastic on the end of the rod.
 
Nothing against used parts. But I just bought a complete NEW master/slave/tube setup from Rockauto for $120.

It IS very possible to bleed the system. There is a small setscrew looking bleeder on the slave. You should be able to get a good bit of the air out by gravity bleeding it. Just keep the master topped full.

IMHO your better off with new parts then messing with 100k parts anyway...
 
It was new parts.
There is something weird, I don't know if part of the pivot ball stud is broken or what, but it just will not move enough to disengage the clutch until I put that spacer on in addition to the plastic tip. basically it needed to be 1/2" longer than it was.
 
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