Arb or detroit or truetrac

fourwheelinj1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2011
Location
Raleigh
I have a used set of arb lockers and a set of detroit truetracs that I have acquired over the years. I am in the middle of building my cj8 and I am trying to decide which units to put in my axles during the regear. I am doing a full frame off restoration. I am not going to lie this truck is not going to get wheeled hard. I will have too much money in it to tear it up,but I do want to run the trails at uwharrie and maybe brown mountain a few times a year. Mostly the jeep will be a weekend lake vehicle and also be driven around are farm. I am wondering if having arbs that get used infrequently is going to be a maintanence problem. Truetracs are probably all I need 98% of the time but I a wondering if being fully locked will be beneficial enough to prevent the need for more throttle and potential breakage. Give me some opinions. Keeping it mind I already own both. I need to have the seals replaced in the arbs so installing them will cost more that the truetracs but it shouldn't be too bad. Should I go arbs, truetracs or a combo or truetrac rear and arb front?
 
Arb hands down especially if you are going to drive it on the road. Replacing seals are not to hard to do and don't think they are much of a maintenance issue. Only time I've ever replaced seals is when I had it out changing r and p. Just cause it was convenient. My first jeep had arb front and rear. My crawler now has arb in front and Detroit in the rear and really really dislike the Detroit especially on the road.
 
I'd vote for the ARB's as well, as you've already got them. They'll add value to the rig and are the best of both worlds.

The true tracs are fine if you don't get a tire off the ground. They will slip like a posi carrier if one wheel is unloaded. I wouldn't even consider them. ARB small parts are cheap. Poly Perf has the parts catalogs and prices online.
 
While I will also vote ARB, isn't it true that on an auto you can simply "over-ride the brakes" in a wheel off the ground situation with a true-trac and get power to the wheel with traction?
H1 drivers are taught this.
 
It helps but it still will slip. The thing I like least about them is that it is hard to know when they will slip and it can throw you off something or get off line before you have a chance to stop it. I doubt the rig in question will be on big obstacles but thinking of dickey bell, I'd rather have the ARB's
 
I've never owned an ARB, but I've driven on the other type for years. I like having a rear locker (Detroit, Aussie, powertrax) full time for occasional use but open rear does feel better and helps with tire longevity. If you can afford it, go ARB. However I'd never own one.
 
Another vote for ARB's.
 
If the initial cost of an ARB can be overcome, they are hard to beat and I run one myself. People have air leaks with them but in my own experience they are due to 2 things: improperly run air supply lines and not enough carrier bearing preload from a poor install.
I vote ARB rear and some sort of locker up front as long as you have lock out hubs (like you do). In non lock out hub applications like post CJ jeeps, ARB (or other selectable) front and rear is the only way to have your cake and eat it too.
 
Thanks for the responses. I picked both the arbs up used so that is the reason I want to replace all the seals in them before install. I am assuming that the seals are the only parts that really wear out very easily.
 
Another vote for ARBs.

Seals are pretty cheap, you can always bring it up to ECGS and have them rebuild anything that they would need.
 
I plan on putting a powertrax lock-right in my 70, any reasons why I shouldn't go another route? Mainly a dd
Just go with it.
 
What are the rest of the specs on the truck? From the sound of your usage, ARB's to me seem overkill. Why not sell them and use the money elsewhere in the project? ARB is far superior in the traction department but is it warranted? They will also get you into a pretty good bind if you aren't careful playing in technical stuff where the Trutrac would just give out which may be to an advantage if this is going to be more of a clean ride. I would vote for the more modest differential.
 
Trutracs are awesome. I also vote sell the arb's and use that money elsewhere. They will give much more traction, but do you need it?
 
Jeep will be running a stock dana 44 rear, dana 30 front with chromoly shafts all geared 4.27 with 33's for now and maybe 35s later. I will also drive it in the snow in the winters but here is Raleigh that's not much. I figure a truetrac rear might be better in the snow than the arb, to keep the back end from sliding out, but I figure a truetrac in the front may cause issues in the snow with 4wheel engaged where as the arb I could just leave disengaged in the snow unless i get stuck.

Honestly the arb is going to be overkill 99% of the time, but I bought them for just a little more than the cost of the truetracs and recently i have heard a few negative comments about the durability of truetracs. The owners manuals for truetracs also say they are not to be used with tires bigger than 32s.

I keep going back and worth on which differentials to use which is how I ended up owning both kinds. I do plan on keeping this jeep for the next 15-20 years though so I want it to be right.
 
I've always been very pleased with my Trutracs in both fronts and backs. Everything from light to heavy snow...works great. They do "lock up" very easy and spin both wheels when you throttle up so you do need to pay attention to what you are doing when in the skinny pedal. Honestly, if that scares you then snow is not your thing. Zero complaints from me. I actually despise an open diff for street driving because when I want to go, the last thing I want to do is wait for traction. One reason why I cannot drive modern cars with traction control.

I really think you are hung up on this. When you say that down the road, you may go from 33's to 35's, that tells me that you want to tackle rougher terrain. You may be better off with the ARB's if you head down that road in the future IMO. Don't get to caught up in the decision. The correct tire pressure, right line, and decent momentum will get you over a lot of stuff. I've seen good drivers blow past people with all the bling. ARB's just make it easier if you know what you are doing.
 
Not sure if they are still manufactured anymore, but the Auburn ECTED locker would probably be perfect for your needs. Limited slip when unlocked, and like a spool when locked. Electrically actuated so you don't have to run air compressor and air lines. Generally considered not as heavy-duty as an ARB or OX locker, but no one else offers a limited slip when unlocked, which makes the most sense for 95% of the wheeling world. Also, its easier to resplice a wire than a torn airline.
 
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