ARP part # for Toyota hub studs

Just threw them in mine a month or so back and ordered as a kit with all new hardware. Daves Offroad Supply out of PA was the best deal around. I think it was around $52 per side shipped...6 new ARP studs, cone washer, lock washer and nut.
 
oh and you know this, probably but dont fall for the "super metal" trail-mart bs.

Stripped out 2 installing with a 1/4" ratchet
 
I have had the trail mart ones for almost 4 years never had one let loose broke 3 stock hubs before that in my opinion the only reason for them is to get the extra torque so they don't come loose if you are good about checking your stock ones I think they will be fine also all that being said flanges are the way to go for sure if your not street driving
 
Trail Mart is not an option for me.

I've been running the ARP set from Front Range on my front axle for a while without issues.

I sheared all the pins and bolts off the FF80 rear hub and am now repairing it. I have no doubt is was due to loose bolts.

I'm hoping to find a part number that would correlate to the ARP catalog. :D
 
For the FJ80 rear, just drill the hubs for (6) 3/8 dowels and (6) 7/16-20 socket head cap screws like the ones @drkelly linked to. There are 7/16-20's in that link that are supposedly stronger than grade 8. Throw some lock washers on there while you're at it and a little locktite then never worry about those things again.
 
Someone link a picture, I'm very curious about this now.

You really want to use hardened washers under the heads of high tensile socket head cap screws BTW. There's less bearing area under the head so you need something to distribute load unless there's a reason that you can't. Regular lock washers need not apply.
 
karatejosh said:
I have had the trail mart ones for almost 4 years never had one let loose broke 3 stock hubs before that in my opinion the only reason for them is to get the extra torque so they don't come loose if you are good about checking your stock ones I think they will be fine also all that being said flanges are the way to go for sure if your not street driving
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FWIW I was running TG flanges on all 4 corners. Actually split 2 of those as well...
 
Fabrik8 said:
Someone link a picture, I'm very curious about this now.

You really want to use hardened washers under the heads of high tensile socket head cap screws BTW. There's less bearing area under the head so you need something to distribute load unless there's a reason that you can't. Regular lock washers need not apply.
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From when Wizzo did the same mod to his old rig.
ai702.photobucket.com_albums_ww24_wizzo1983_fj80_20axles_SANY1376_1.jpg
 
What a weird hub setup.
StretchASU said:
From when Wizzo did the same mod to his old rig.
View attachment 213401
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Those are the most useless lockwashers you can get. They only partially work from spring tension (they have very little tension), don't work properly once they're tightened down because the split cutting edge is flat to the surface, they're split so they don't distribute load very evenly, and can also spread apart so the diameter unintentionally changes. Basically, you'd be better served with a good quality hardened washer which works much better as a washer and just as well as a lockwasher (did I mention split lockwashers suck?)...

Basically, those lockwashers are making things worse. If they aren't making things worse, that means the problem is probably something very different than what you think it is.
 
Fabrik8 said:
What a weird hub setup.


Those are the most useless lockwashers you can get. They only partially work from spring tension (they have very little tension), don't work properly once they're tightened down because the split cutting edge is flat to the surface, they're split so they don't distribute load very evenly, and can also spread apart so the diameter unintentionally changes. Basically, you'd be better served with a good quality hardened washer which works much better as a washer and just as well as a lockwasher (did I mention split lockwashers suck?)...

Basically, those lockwashers are making things worse. If they aren't making things worse, that means the problem is probably something very different than what you think it is.
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I get the feeling you have never worked on a Toyota or Samurai front axle before.
 
drkelly said:
I get the feeling you have never worked on a Toyota or Samurai front axle before.
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Yeah, that's true. But, you're shooting yourself in the foot if you're trying to solve something with that type of lockwasher. Has no one produced a hub with a splined drive plate instead of the stud (or cap screw) and dowel pin setup? Adding more pins and more screws just seems like a crutch for a design that is far past it's intended usage.
 
NCJeeplover said:
$$$$$$$$

Longfield Studless Hubs, longfield, studless hubs, toyota hubs, hub, studless hub, longfield studless hub, longfield hubs, longfield hub, anniversary sale Longfield Studless Hub (Toyota) KIT,HUB,STUDLESS,TOYOTA
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Yeah, that's what I'm talking about. That's a true solution. That's actually not a bad price for a pair of aftermarket hubs and spline plates and bearings, but I'm used to race parts and not truck parts.

For the drive flange designs, why not stick with studs and nuts instead of using cap screws? Any cap screw that length is likely going to be fully threaded instead of having a portion of unthreaded grip, and fully threaded fasteners aren't very good in shear.
 
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Somewhere Bobby is turning over that his name is on that product....
 
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