Auto tranny experts

willness33

willness33

Here for the memes
Joined
May 3, 2005
Location
Alexis,NC
I'll start with a nice story. I've got a 2WD '89 Chebby 1/2 ton with a 350 and the dreaded 700R4 trans. The truck has never let me down, until yesterday. The one think that has always been on my mind in terms of failure is the tranny. Well, my fears have finally been realized. The transmission shit the bed. I was putzing around town and noticed the trans wasn't shifting into OD. A few miles later, it wouldn't shift into D (3rd). At this point, I knew I was in trouble. I turned and headed for home. Over the next 3-4 miles, the trans was slipping badly, all the while never shifting out of 2. I had to stop at a light. DAMN! I tried to go when the light turned green, but no amount of revs would get it moving. I slammed it down into 1 and revved it up. Horray, moving! I tried to put the shifter back into D, but it wasn't coming out of 1. Well, 1 mile later it had enough. The beautiful part about the over-revving trying to get it to move was the impeller decided to part with the rest of the waterpump. JOY! 2 broken parts. Overheating and no trans is just how I like my trucks!

Ok, story over. Now, I know this is probably a terminal problem and it's probably going to cost me an ass and a leg to get it fixed since auto trannys are voodoo to me. My options are to rebuild (with a very experienced eye over me), pay for a rebuild, buy an unknown working 700R4 from someone, or to say ditch the POS entirely and throw in a TH350. So, what's my best and cheapest options? Is the 700R4 a completely unreliable turd that I couldn't expect at least another 50K miles out of a rebuild? The turbo 350 sounds like a great option, but how do they compare to the R4 in length? I'm not really looking for any d-shaft mods just to accomodate a trans without OD. In conclusion, are there any auto tranny gurus near me that want to make a little cash? I'll pull it, do some work, whatever you need as long as it gets done right. Hell, teach me as I do the work and you enjoy cold beverages. Whatever gets it fixed.
 
Oh, and I should mention that this tranny was actually rebuilt around 45K miles ago. I guess it wasn't done right? This was before I owned the truck. It's always shifted like crap as long as I've owned it.
 
the 700r4 and th350 are equally reliable. get it rebuilt, and get a separate tranny cooler.
 
ok...
#1 there is no strength difference between a 700r4 and a th350. (the clutch packs, and everything are interchangeable just an extra set for the OD) A 700 is a 350 with OD
#2 if it only has 45k on it and doesnt never shifted well the TV cable was never adjusted properly and you burned your tranny up.
#3 If you want strength go to a th400 or build the shit outta the 700
#4 a th350 or th400 will require D shaft mods
#5 If you can pull the tranny and replace it yourself I have a friend just South of Gastonia that will rebuild it on a bench for ~400 or 1,000 if you watch/help. And he will guarantee his work for 1 year regardless of use or mileage.

#6 you can help a 700 live a long happy life while you are in there with a 10V front pump a better 2nd servo (the infamous vette servo is over rated) and some premium friction pieces. BUT IF YOU DO NOT PROPERLY ADJUST YOUR TV CABLE YOU WILL BURN THE NEXT ONE UP ALSO.
#7 When the tranny started slipping had you have pulled over and stopped, Id bet we could have saved it.
#8 If you dont have an external cooler get one now. All auto hate heat and a 700 is worse than most, it is too tight to dissipate.
#9 For a big pimpin 700 search for the th700raptor....its EXPENSIVE but you wont kill it.
 
a few more
make sure you fully flush the old fluid out while the tranny is out or ou will dump clutch grit right back in your new tranny

also how about the other specs on your truck. tire size gears etc. is this simply a case of over lugging the trans? When I was doing ATS on the side I cant count the number of k10 with stock gears and 44s that came here for tranny repair (stock 10b or 12b too)
 
SkyHiK5 said:
BUT IF YOU DO NOT PROPERLY ADJUST YOUR TV CABLE YOU WILL BURN THE NEXT ONE UP ALSO.
Click to expand...
Not trying to hijack the thread here, but I'm getting close to finishing up swapping a TF727 into my CJ7 behind a 258. It's got the TV cable also and I want to make sure it gets adjusted correctly from the start. What is the correct procedure for getting it adjust correctly so things don't eventually go slip,slip,no go.
 
700r4 is a good trans to run.I run one in a 69 Chevelle with a 450 HP SB in front,set up for road raceing.Runs great still tight after 50K on it of hard beating.
 
Just to let all of you very helpful folks know, it does have a separate tranny cooler.
SkyHiK5 said:
a few more
make sure you fully flush the old fluid out while the tranny is out or ou will dump clutch grit right back in your new tranny

also how about the other specs on your truck. tire size gears etc. is this simply a case of over lugging the trans? When I was doing ATS on the side I cant count the number of k10 with stock gears and 44s that came here for tranny repair (stock 10b or 12b too)
Click to expand...
The truck is bone stock, all the way down to the 235/75/15s. I rarely tow with it and just occasionally haul stuff. It's more of a backup vehicle and well, a truck. Everyone needs a truck, right?

Thanks for all of the info so far guys. It's much appreciated!
 
SkyHiK5 said:
if it only has 45k on it and doesnt never shifted well the TV cable was never adjusted properly and you burned your tranny up.
Click to expand...
Ummm, yeah. After reading up on the TV cable, I believe that's what happened. Back when it actually moved on it's own, I'd be pulling up to a stoplight, sit there for a few seconds (maybe ten) and it would actually downshift into first well after being stopped. Upshifts would hesitate a little, then bang into the next gear. I'll say in my defense, the rebuild was done before I owned the truck. I just thought that the tranny was a turd from the beginning. Now I guess I know better. Time to save up for a rebuild now.:rolleyes:
 
Before you rebuild it, check at the Chevy dealer. Its possible that you can pay just a little more for a new one then a rebuild, and you will get a warranty.
 
SWAMP RACKET said:
Before you rebuild it, check at the Chevy dealer. Its possible that you can pay just a little more for a new one then a rebuild, and you will get a warranty.
Click to expand...


a new 700r4 will run $1900 (not counting install)
There is a shop (mentioned above) 30 minutes from him that will rebuild it for way less than $500 (and maybe as cheap as $2-300 if he is slow) and give him the same warranty (1 year unlimited mileage)
 
SkyHiK5 said:
a new 700r4 will run $1900 (not counting install)
There is a shop (mentioned above) 30 minutes from him that will rebuild it for way less than $500 (and maybe as cheap as $2-300 if he is slow) and give him the same warranty (1 year unlimited mileage)
Click to expand...
I'm trying to work out a buddy deal on the rebuild, but I'd sure like a PM with more detail of this place/guy if this mechanic falls through, which is very likely.
 
looks like this thread has died, but gained some good insight as i am having the same problems with the same transmission, just wanted to add for future ref. L and R transmissions in winston salem rebuilt mine, in the truck for around $1600 with a 50,000 mi warranty
 
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