Axle Swap and SPOA

jeepn-jason

jeepn-jason

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Greensboro
Finally got tired of fooling with the amc 20 in the rear of my 5 swap in my 3/4 ton crap. Just have a few ?s. I am running a D44 front and 14 bolt rear both geared 456 with a detroit in the rear lockright front. I plan on running either a 37" Irok or 38" sx tire. I am also wanting to use waggy springs in the front and xj rears. I have already moved the rear spring mount back 5"s on the previous stretch, so I am extending the rear frame rails now. The questions I have are,

What kind of lift should I expect out of the XJ springs, stock. I dont have any body lift now and dont want one. The rear has been comp cut and I would like to stay as low as poss. I have some stock chevy half ton springs i could bastardize them with.

I plan on moving the front axle forward 2 inches with the waggy springs. What kind of mods will be needed to make the steering work. I will be using flat tops knucks and possibly hydro assist in the future. What kind of pittman or are there specific steering arms that will be needed. I will also be keeping the shackles mounted up front if that makes a difference.

And I also would like to shave the 14 bolt. i have seen lots of guys doing this and was wondering if this should be tackled by a proffesional or could some ole shade tree like myself handle this??

I will be posting pics as I go along on the swap and any info recieved will be greatly appreciated. :beer: :beer: Jason
 
You will get about 6.5" of lift out of the stock XJ springs in the rear.

It would be best to go high steer & use a waggy pitman arm(has a little drop in it, if your springs are arched up some & not flat you can use the waggy arm) or a 90's chevy astro pitman arm wich is completely flat(for use with 7/8" TRE's & flat springs) or you could use your stock pitman arm if you don't use 7/8" TRE's(not enough beef for 7/8" TRE's).

You might have to move your steering box forward and inch. I moved my axle forward one inch. The SRS/outboard system I have did that for more clearance behind the tires. I used KC4x4's steering arms & some low profile spring perches. I had some that were too tall and the tie rod would rub on the springs. If you want to keep your rig low you have to have some tight tolerances.

Some have used a TJ pitman arm, it is shorter but works good with axles moved forward for that reason. The only downside is that you lose some turning radius and you have to file down some of the keys on the arm so it will fit on the CJ steering box.

Here's a pic of mine. Stock rear CJ springs in front and stock XJ's in the rear with 37's 101" wheel base & 78" tall.

aimg99.imageshack.us_img99_446_sideshot7lf.jpg


aimg99.imageshack.us_img99_9968_jeepdriveway9ax.jpg


aimg99.imageshack.us_img99_6687_jeeprearshot5sw.jpg
 
Did you put an add a leaf in with those cj packs or are they stock?? Looks like they gave quite a bit of lift.
 
Nope, I took out the smallest leaf. The springs are completely flat. The SRS/outboard kit added another inch of lift.
 
Finally got the springs in last night. Still havent welded the shackle hanger in place yet. How do I determine were it will go? I dont have the axle hangin on it yet, so I figured it would pull them down further with the axle. Basically I just need an idea of what angle should be on the shackle with the weight off of the jeep and no rear axle. Right now i have it clamped at 20 degrees. Let me know what ya think.
 
the only real way to measure is have the weight of the jeep on it. mine is probly at a 50 degree angle. should have done probly a 45 or little less.

i have 39.5 TSL's with XJ's rear and 3" body lift (taking it off) it has enough room to flex and i should be able to flex and not hit anything with the body lift off.

i also have waggys front and moved the axle foward 2 inches. didn't have to move the steering box or anything. and i have crossover steering..
tyler
 
Basix shave of a 14 bolt is easy. I used a porta band to cut off the major meat, then a grinder to smooth it out. If you wanna do more, there are some guys here that will cut major meat off, turn the Ring gear down, and weld a plate to the bottom. Gives A LOT of clearance! That's what I want to do if I ever get the funds. Just Empty Every Pocket.
 
upnover said:
Basix shave of a 14 bolt is easy. I used a porta band to cut off the major meat, then a grinder to smooth it out. If you wanna do more, there are some guys here that will cut major meat off, turn the Ring gear down, and weld a plate to the bottom. Gives A LOT of clearance! That's what I want to do if I ever get the funds. Just Empty Every Pocket.
Click to expand...

Id really like to get a lot shaved on the bottom. I will probably only be running 37s since I still have a 44 for the front. I am wanting as much clearance as possible with the 14, within budget also.
 
Finally got the rear axle in, been working alot of ot put me behind. The shackles ended up at a 45*angle, looks great. I now have a 96" wheelbase. Now to the front, I think I will move the front axle 5" foward to achieve 101". Will the xj springs live up front? i will be doing a full hydro so steering should not be an issue. Also the rear shaft measurements ended up at 27.5" Should I use a cv with this?? My oem shaft was only 22" but I didnt have near as much flex as now.
 
If you already have the rear axle in, I'm assuming you welded the perches? If they're welded you probably should have decided on the CV driveshaft first. What is this 101" you're shooting for? Is this the optimum length for rockcrawling? I'm just curious.
Off road = on jack stands!
 
ive shaved 2 14ff rears with a sawzall, to take off the lip, then a grinder to smooth everything out.
 
jdubb said:
If you already have the rear axle in, I'm assuming you welded the perches? If they're welded you probably should have decided on the CV driveshaft first. What is this 101" you're shooting for? Is this the optimum length for rockcrawling? I'm just curious.
Off road = on jack stands!
Click to expand...


I want the longer wheelbase for climbing hills, and for stability. I wheeled my rig pretty much stock for a year and watched alot of other guys seems to me that the wheelbase really helps out. I havent welded the perches on yet. The axle is merely bolted in place right now. i am going to try to figure the weight of my gear in the back of the jeep before i weld on the perches.
 
grapehead said:
ive shaved 2 14ff rears with a sawzall, to take off the lip, then a grinder to smooth everything out.
Click to expand...


I am going to pull the axle back out this weekend and do this myself. i would definatly like to shave a couple of inches off of the bottom later down the road.
 
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