Axle wrap on front axle, need advice ASAP

Tacoma747

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Winston-Salem
I have 44044's up front, 14" bilsteins, and a D44. I just went outside and did a flex test, dropped the drivers side tire to 12" on the shock, driveshaft had 4" showing, and probably not much left to go.

My problem normally happens going up hills or rocks (upper kodak rock, schoolbus, rock garden at Crawfords), it seems that when the front end is light (weight wise), and I am kind of in a bind, I will try to back up and the driveshaft will pop out. I am thinking that in reverse, since the pinion wraps downwards is where my problem is coming from.

I was thinking about a bar that the stock 83' Yota's had, that went from the axle forward, but I don't have any room for one, and I can't do one going rearward because that would not let the axle flex without binding.

I was thinking a limiting strap, but then I would lose a ton of flex, but I might not have a choice at this point. I am planning on lengthening the driveshaft with some tractor PTO shaft, but won't have it in time to do it before this weekend.

Another idea was to weld a bracket on top of the housing (near pinion) to hook a strap on to keep it from wrapping.

Basically, my driveshaft needs more travel, but where the problem is originating is axle wrap, I can't add any more leafs, because the front is already higher than the rear.


Any ideas?

Thanks a ton...
 
get a top main leaf, cut off end to fit just inside top main just short of rear eye, cut other end just past U-bolts, install on top of stack ABOVE main leaf

might need new U-bolts to make up for added stack height

will not interfere with flex, but will help with spring wrap,

if you want to reduce wrap when stopping, make the leaf full length, just be sure it's above the main leaf and will clear the spring eye's when the pack is compressed.

depending on your set up, this could interfere with highsteer
 
I'm having a hard time picturing this as wrap (which will torque the front axle upward)... instead of flex coupled with too short of a slip-spline. Seems all that's happening is your drooping the axle (too much flex?) and popping it apart... I'd work the new implement shaft up first and see if it doesn't cure the ills, unless there's other issues
Pepin & Jeepgod had the first shackle reversed Jeeps I can remember. Pepin's always separated the DS going uphill when pass. side was drooped. After the 3rd time on Schoolbus, the rest of us decided a "limiting chain" was needed (or we'd spend the rest of the day on the slope with the Jeep teetering over a hi-lift!) and it worked fine the rest of the day (he later rolled it on Trail1 returning to camp).
 
i have a friend with a sas'd yota that has a similar problem, his driveshaft seems too short when in reverse only. It's never come apart while moving forward, even when fully flexed.

He's yet to solve the problem, but i agree with Blkvoodoo, get an anti wrap spring. This pic shows an anti wrap spring, but for keeping the pinion from moving up.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Images/Phase-III/Fsprings3.jpg
 
Kevin, good idea, I would like to run it full length but we will see, I think my u-bolts are long enough, but I can get new ones made locally so that isn't a problem.

Dave,
I have never had any problems going up stuff, not to say I wouldn't have problems, it seems it has started since I got the dual cases and got on the harder stuff (Kodak for one). The pinion goes up when going forward, but when in reverse it rotates down, rotating down in conjunction with being drooped is what seems to be tossing it out.

I will try the extra leaf thing, but will carry a strap in case I need to make a limithing strap on the trail.
 
michael i wouldnt worry about it, i must have pulled mine apart a dozen times when we were at tellico. just carry a couple of 14mm in the center console and put it back together when it comes apart. it would be tough to get a limit strap to help because the suspension isnt really drooping any more than it should, the pinion just moves down a lot. i would just roll with it till you can get a shaft with more slip
 
The real solution is to have a custom long spline shaft made. yes it's $$$, but in the long run it'll save you Tcase, and axle gears from the backlash when the shaft spits, and save you the aggrivation of dealing with a puked shaft in a precarious position.

Had one made a few years ago from Highangle driveline, sent him a Toy front CV and flange as a core, that helped reduce the cost greatly.

He used a PTO slip spline, the front shaft can slip enough it could be used as a rear shaft in a pinch. The truck this was installed on has never had driveshaft issues.
 
LONG TRAVEL

A long travel slip is the answer to your problem. I think mine has 16" of travel.
 
The pinion goes up when going forward, but when in reverse it rotates down, rotating down in conjunction with being drooped is what seems to be tossing it out.

Actually, I think the pinion (on the front axle) should drop under forward torque IIRC...

But anyway, a center limit strap could help you and not "kill your flex"..

You're not far from Universal Auto, they could make a custom long-travel DS about as inexpensively as anyone.

Or just link the front and you won't need the long-slip.. Now THAT's saving money! :lol:
 
olivers driveshaft in winston has made some nice shafts for me in the past... might could help you out Michael...


Olivers made this one, they said when they got done it would have pleeenty of travel. I told them I needed the longest slip they had. You see what I got, a stock length slip that is not enough. Plus, last time I took something to them, they wanted $110 to do it, got it done at Truck Parts Specialists for $85.
 
Just kind of butted into this conversation and the answer to this problem is two lower control arms mounted just ot the outside of your leafsprings. I had the same problem and fixed it very cheap. I have wheel some of the hardest trails in the world (the Hammers, The Rubicon, UROC, Moab, Etc.) The longer slip yoke will help but you will still have axle wrap which over time and more extreme rockcrawling you will stress that spline and break it in half which will leave you in a real bind.
 
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