Axles & 35's?

RedRig

Active Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Location
Fletcher, NC
I need a little advice from some experienced jeepers.
My current axle/tire setup (99 TJ):
Dana30 front
Dana35 rear w/ Ten factory 30 spline and Eaton Locker
G2 4.56 gears
3.5" suspension/1" body
16" Rubicon wheels with 33" Nitto Mud Grapplers
Not trussed...
I think I can fit 35's (315/75) but I am worried about busting axles.
Any advice is appreciated.
 
find / buy a set of 44's..for moderate wheeling, you'll be fine..
keep the gears if you're happy with them, or change to a 4.88..i have 4.56 with 35's (and a v8), and i like them..

just my .02

brian
 
Mild wheeling, no elaborate use of skinny pedal and the D35 will hold up to the 35s. Start doing some moderate wheeling and you're gonna grenade it. Grenaded mine with 34s. D30 u-joints will break and shear the ears off the shafts, but that's likely to happen with the 33s as well. I went through two driver shafts. Upgrade to the larger 760 u-joints and the D30 will hold up to the 35s with moderate wheeling. Ultimately it depends on how you wheel it. I'd do the 35s and wheel it till it breaks and then decide on which axles to upgrade to.
 
My D35 held up for years running it open with 35s and 410 gears, Put a lock right in and it blew first trip out.

IMO you can baby the D35 and make it last, But locked it will be go sooner than later.

On the other had I beat the snot out of my D30 and it has (knock on wood) yet to gave me an issue. Its locked and I running 35s on it.

Swapped the D35 out for a 88 few years back and love it.


Disclaimer: Experiences may vary depending on use. I am not saying that the D30 is a great axle, I am just saying it can be wheeled locked with 35s and some common sense. Now the D35 on the other hand is better suited for a boat anchor.
 
Elocker

I run an Eaton ELocker so I can turn it on and off. I did this knowing that a D35 is weak and sometimes it is not good to be locked. I have done some moderate wheelin with it and no problems. But I am easy with the skinny. I have my money in the D35 now so I'm going to wheel-it till it breaks. But I think I am staying with 33's for now. Probably looking for some 760 ujoints and maybe some ten factory front axles.


Thanks for your input.
 
I tried running 35's on my TJ last year, My d35 was open and I exploded it the first tough hill I climb. I would highly recomend an 8.8 or a 44.
 
Umm, you'll be ok with your setup. I think most people are overlooking the fact you're running the 30 spline Ten Factory shafts in the D35. Still not the best axle in the world, but fine for moderate wheeling on 35's. Just dont let it start hopping on you. As for the front axle, again run the 35s. Even with a locker in the front, 35's arent too much for the axle. Wheel smart and you'll be just fine. I run 36" SX's on heavy beadlocks with nothing more than a locked D30 with the u-joint caps tacked and have only broken one axleshaft. That one was a dummy part on my own.
 
yeah I overlooked the 30 spline shafts. Me thinks you'll be just fine with your setup on the rear. Definitely upgrade those u-joints in the front axle and then you'll be set.
 
I didn't think about Asheville PowerTrain for the ujoints. I'll check their prices.
I try and do all my own work. I have changed gears, installed lockers, axles, lifts, trackbars, etc... Setting up the gears right took me a couple tries but that seems pretty straight forward now -just pay attention to the details and don't be in a hurry. I need to learn to weld.
I think the 30 spline cromoly axles in the rear make a big difference over stock. They have rolled splines and the c-clip area is much more substantail. I have tried a couple "can't stand-up on" hill climbs with no probs since I locked the rear. You have just be easy on the wheel hop like you said.
The Eaton Elocker is also a beefy item. Pretty impressive looking, even for the D35. Just got to be careful when turn it on. I chose it over an ARB just because I felt the more comfortable with electrical over air. Plus 4wd.com was runnning a great deal on them last fall.
Looks like I can pick up a set of Ten factory 27 spline cromoly front axles w/ 760 full circle ujoints for under $600. I think this would be the safeguard from busting the front. And it is an easy install. But it's $600. On top of new tires that is hard on the wallet.
But 35's are becoming more tempting.....
 
I know everyone has different experiences with these axles. but I have wheeled with them on 33's and an arb in the 35 for years with no issues. and just ask mike. im easy on the skinny pedal.
 
I had a Detroit True Track in my D35 with 33's. There was enough flex in the housing that the carrier sheared off a couple bolt heads. Mangled the crap out everything. Big chunks taken out of the diff, ring and pinion. That's when I got the Ford 8.8.
Just blew that up. Putting a Detroit locker in. If that blows up I'll find a Ford 9" to put on. Lots of choices from wrecks. Maybe fewer choices in the future when that 35.5MPG CAFE kicks in and people start fixing their bigger cars and trucks instead of replacing them with tiny little matchbox cars.
 
mgearly34 said:
I didn't think about Asheville PowerTrain for the ujoints. I'll check their prices.
I try and do all my own work. I have changed gears, installed lockers, axles, lifts, trackbars, etc... Setting up the gears right took me a couple tries but that seems pretty straight forward now -just pay attention to the details and don't be in a hurry. I need to learn to weld.
I think the 30 spline cromoly axles in the rear make a big difference over stock. They have rolled splines and the c-clip area is much more substantail. I have tried a couple "can't stand-up on" hill climbs with no probs since I locked the rear. You have just be easy on the wheel hop like you said.
The Eaton Elocker is also a beefy item. Pretty impressive looking, even for the D35. Just got to be careful when turn it on. I chose it over an ARB just because I felt the more comfortable with electrical over air. Plus 4wd.com was runnning a great deal on them last fall.
Looks like I can pick up a set of Ten factory 27 spline cromoly front axles w/ 760 full circle ujoints for under $600. I think this would be the safeguard from busting the front. And it is an easy install. But it's $600. On top of new tires that is hard on the wallet.
But 35's are becoming more tempting.....
Click to expand...

I bought the Nitro 27 spline chromos from ECGS for $525 shipped. They have the 760 joints as well. Not to mention the warranty and you're buying from Chase. :beer:

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-159906-nitro-dana-30-chromoly-axle-shaft-kit.html
 
Nitro 27 Spline

Thanks - didn't know about the Nitro's. I like Chase. I have purchased bearings and such in the past from him. Stuff shows up fast.
I priced the 760x ujoints at Asheville PowerTrain (in town for me) that Novacayne mentioned.$29 a joint and he carries half dozen or so on-hand.
 
on 33's with 3.07 gears i blew out the front R&P. The rear D35 lasted until i pulled it out, but i probably only had one or two more trips on those spider gears. I wheeled hard, but i didn't wheel rough (dumping clutch, hopping the axles... ect). Never once had u-joint issues, and i have seen stock TJ shafts and u-joints hold up to 35's on Daniel with a u-joint that had a 1/16th inch of play. But really what you have is a maxed out axle tire combo with 35's. They could break at any point for any reason, or they may hold together.
 
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