Bead rolling interior panels tech

ORV design and fab

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Location
Raleigh area, NC
Just got a bead roller and looking to step into some interior stuff only buggy, anyone have some experience? I know Chris Marshall is the man at marsfab but wanting to do these myself and learn to do some sheet metal work any advice other than pay someone else! Lol
 
Yea, it's a good resource for sure, I've got the time and buggy to learn it with. Gonna do steel right now, I have a sheet of 18g but thinking of going thinner to play around on for center pieces and such
 
Deuling design is another name to watch for bead rolling; along with lazze, and Jamie Jordan

Matt
 
I got the Eastwood economy roller with 17" throat, it comes with 6 dies. Going to mount it remotely to the side oft table to help with holding the material and have looked at so many YouTube videos,


Looking at adding a foot switch and motor make it a one man operation

I have the same. Been trying to decide how I was going to stiffen and motorized it. 18ga will deflect the dies. It needs stiffening.

this what i was looking at doing to mine.

Bead roller write up (powered and cheap!)

All the threads I've read and never came across a wiper motor. Genius. I think I have some plans formulating!
 
Another tip i have read was to replace the preload screw with one with a t handle, and add a spring to lift the top arm up as the preload is removed.

I have the same model bead roller (but from woodward fab) and it will deflect for 18ga, it really needs to be stiffened.
 
Another tip i have read was to replace the preload screw with one with a t handle, and add a spring to lift the top arm up as the preload is removed.

I have the same model bead roller (but from woodward fab) and it will deflect for 18ga, it really needs to be stiffened.


X2. Mine doesn't deflect upward, but fore and aft, and then the gap changes.

The steel rollers will leave marks in aluminum.

I want to make a 1/4" table for mine and then an extra piece parallel to the table on the top half to stiffen it.

Then the next would be an adjustable uhmw fence or back gauge to roll steps in panels and keep the distance to panel edge consistent.
 
X2. Mine doesn't deflect upward, but fore and aft, and then the gap changes.

The steel rollers will leave marks in aluminum.

I want to make a 1/4" table for mine and then an extra piece parallel to the table on the top half to stiffen it.

Then the next would be an adjustable uhmw fence or back gauge to roll steps in panels and keep the distance to panel edge consistent.

Are your dies polished? I did a little AL work and I didnt notice any marking of the sheet steel.


I have seen 2 different ways to make a fence for running beads. One is a fence on the machine and the other is a fens on the material that rides against the die.

I picked up these Bead Roller Forming Dies for mine, however i have no clue how to use them to do what they say they can do.
 
Are your dies polished? I did a little AL work and I didnt notice any marking of the sheet steel.


I have seen 2 different ways to make a fence for running beads. One is a fence on the machine and the other is a fens on the material that rides against the die.

I picked up these Bead Roller Forming Dies for mine, however i have no clue how to use them to do what they say they can do.

Mine are not polished, and the striations in the dies print onto the aluminum.

I want some skateboard wheels or uhmw for alum.

I was thinking a third die with a .090" groove in it to catch and hold edge of panel but let it roll through and around radius corners.
 
Do you want to sell those dies?
Are your dies polished? I did a little AL work and I didnt notice any marking of the sheet steel.


I have seen 2 different ways to make a fence for running beads. One is a fence on the machine and the other is a fens on the material that rides against the die.

I picked up these Bead Roller Forming Dies for mine, however i have no clue how to use them to do what they say they can do.
 
18 gauge will be a bitch.. 20 to 22 and use the bead roller to add back rigidity. That's what it's for. A driven roller is a must for a one man band.
 
16 gauge, did you multipass it? I'm by no means a roller expert. My experience was with a pro tools unit powered with a foot pedal.
Two things I remembered about it.

Multipassing the pieces, was a loaner so I wasn't sure how hard to push it.

And feeling like I was chasing something. It was a bit higher geared than I would prefer to own.

It showed me real quick sizable pieces and cranking would require a good steady partner.
 
16 gauge, did you multipass it? I'm by no means a roller expert. My experience was with a pro tools unit powered with a foot pedal.
Two things I remembered about it.

Multipassing the pieces, was a loaner so I wasn't sure how hard to push it.

And feeling like I was chasing something. It was a bit higher geared than I would prefer to own.

It showed me real quick sizable pieces and cranking would require a good steady partner.


No single pass and it kick my butt. Had a good helper, but can't communicate what needs to happen fast enough, with one person cranking and one person steering.

It was not completely successful, but not a waste.
 
Mine are not polished, and the striations in the dies print onto the aluminum.

I want some skateboard wheels or uhmw for alum.

I was thinking a third die with a .090" groove in it to catch and hold edge of panel but let it roll through and around radius corners.


Clean them up and that will take care of that issue. The eastwood add on dies are polished and did not leave any marks on the panel. Chasing curves isnt easy with this style of bead roller. I see why the high dollar bead rollers have the dies stick out so far from the frame.


Do you want to sell those dies?

na..
 
Recently got a used HF bead roller with dies and looking to add others (tipping die in particular). Thought I would bump this thread and ask if anyone has used dies from Hoosier Profiles. They have a 3pc tipping set with a steel and uhmw lower die for $125.

I do plan to weld bracing to the back side of the roller. Most I have read use 1/4" wall tubing.
 
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