Best place to get new centers for hummer beadlocks?

i've made 3 orders with usa6x6 and never had any problems.
 
The rock rings are a great idea, as is using the band saw... I would LOVE to have one of those...
 
I am going to try using the cheap harbor freight bandsaw at work to cut them with, but we will see...

As for the new centers, I will have to go with usa 6x6. I can't run the 'flat' centers as they will rub the rear brake calipers (they hang over the hub 1/8" or less). I could probably grind the calipers, but I doubt I will unless I can't get the centers from USA 6x6. I like theirs the best anyways.

The magnesium runflats are a pain to get out though...
 
I got some from USA6x6 back in December, with no problems other than actually getting through on the phone. Took the order on a Wednesday afternoon and they were at my door the next Tuesday.
 
i cut mine down with my HF band saw, i did it outside just in case. The motor always runs hot so i made a tin deflector to keep dust/chips off that too.. I just used my adjustable roller/stand to help support it... Then just hit it with the grinder to clean them up...

All in all it was a pain in the ass.. I bet i spent 20-30min on each 1/2 by the time I was done.
 
I ordered some re-centering and rock rings from Greatlakes offroad. IIRC the rock rings were $125. and centers were $40. ea. I will post a pic Monday
 
I got my centers from 6x6 and my rings from blackout. I wouldn't run anything but a full rock ring. I am not so worried about denting a rim, more about messing up the bolts. I would hate to have to break apart a rim on the trail when the threads are all messed up. I did cut down the centers on my cheapo bandsaw. I cut 1/2 of one with a sawsall and then I went and bought a bandsaw.
 
stazworks---great guy John is. Us the pvc instead of the magg. But cut up the magg and take it to the woods with you. It makes for great fun around the campfire.
 
Kinda off-topic, and don't mean to hi-jack your thread, but i have a burning question....What is the purpose of new centers on H-1 wheels? I just got a set to bolt onto my '79 F-350 dana 60's and was told they WILL bolt right up, so IF they do, why is there a need for the new centers? Also, The run-flat inside...why cut it down? to fit a smaller than 36-37" tire on em? If i continue to run a 37" tire will I have to do anything to them, or will they be just fine as i plan to use them? I only bought these wheels/ tires so i could keep from hanging the tires WAAAAAY out there with the new full width axles. Sorry to "barge" in, but figure if all the great H-1 minds were in here working, then maybe they wouldn't be too bothered by my presence? Thanx again to EVERYONE who is on here! This site is SO awesome for gaining needed info, BEFORE finding out the hard way it wont work, or I should have done it another way!
 
fbpd227 said:
Kinda off-topic, and don't mean to hi-jack your thread, but i have a burning question....What is the purpose of new centers on H-1 wheels?
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1) The tires will hit your leaf springs/links, frame etc when turning due to the stock back spacing.

2) The lockout will stick way out and get destroyed on rocks


fbpd227 said:
Also, The run-flat inside...why cut it down?
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When you air down for trail riding, the stock magnesium run flat will make contact with the inside of the tire and cut it while rock crawling. Most people switch to pvc inserts.
 
THANK YOU VERY MUCH! I know it was a stupid question, but I guess the STUPIDEST question is the one that doesn't get asked! Again, THANK YOU very much! It all makes alot more sense now!
 
USA 6x6 sells the best centers. Whether or not you want to do business with him is up to you... but I've ordered from him a couple of times. It's always been quick and painless.
 
Grinding? on the magnesium runflat? I would say that's inadvisable.
 
Rich said:
Grinding? on the magnesium runflat? I would say that's inadvisable.
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It's an alloy. They're not particularly flammable, so long as you're careful.

If you don't smooth off the edges, it cuts the inside of the tire.
 
What is the purpose of new centers on H-1 wheels?
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The main reason is backspacing. The H1 wheels have 7" of backspacing, whereas most offroad wheels are between 3-4". Also, with a lot of hi-steer setups, the H1 wheels will hit the arms before they get close to seating on the hub. Also, just looking at things as I was trying them out, Im not sure that the center hole is big enough for the 1-ton hub. With that said, I never actually checked it, so that is just something to be aware of.

I just got a set to bolt onto my '79 F-350 dana 60's and was told they WILL bolt right up, so IF they do, why is there a need for the new centers?
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Assuming you aren't running hi-steer, and you won't have any tire rub issues due to the backspacing, you should be fine.

The run-flat inside...why cut it down?
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The magnesium runflats have been known to cut a tire at low pressures. The 8-bolt wheels came with magnesium runflats, 36" bias ply tires, and the wheel flange on the inner half. The 12-bolt wheels came with rubber runflats, 37" radial tires, and the wheel flange on the outer half (presumably so that if you loosened all the nuts instantaneously with pressure still in the tire, the loose half would blow towards the vehicle instead of the person). Also, the magnesium runflats just don't seem like they would provide a very good ride at low pressures.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Also, with a lot of hi-steer setups, the H1 wheels will hit the arms before they get close to seating on the hub. Also, just looking at things as I was trying them out, Im not sure that the center hole is big enough for the 1-ton hub. With that said, I never actually checked it, so that is just something to be aware of.
Assuming you aren't running hi-steer, and you won't have any tire rub issues due to the backspacing, you should be fine.
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You've got that backwards. If you don't recenter the wheel, you usually have to run high steer arms. You'll have to cut the stock steering arm off in order to get the wheel to fit. There may be a few knuckles out there that work as-is, but that's the exception rather than the rule.
 
ok, good, that's relieving, since I had PLANNED on going with the hi-steer set up, and was now worried it might not fit inside the wheel. I would imagine with a SOA you almost HAVE to go hi-steer to keep the geometry somewhat tolerable for steering safely. I dont imagine there is any interfearance with fitting over the hub since the hub hole on the H-1 wheels is over 5 1/2", so should not have any other "hiccups" after that. THANX guys!
 
No, with standard hi-steer arms, the wheels hit the arms. That's why they make H1 wheel compatible hi-steer arms. They are probably all like that these days, but a year or so ago when I bought mine, that was an extra $ option. I don't know if they hit the stock points or not, as mine never went on like that.
 
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