Best racing locker for a D60?

nctom

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2008
Location
CONCORD NC
This is for you guys that beat the pudding out of your D60's... What has held up the best for you?
 
this is my ECORS first season with a front locker...after 2 races, I hate it. If its in the front, I would go with a selectable.
 
Spool! Light, cheap, predictable, reliable, simple. But only for the rear. For the front I'd want a selectable locker or open.
 
Tom if we do go full hydro I'd say Alex is right. A spool in the front is the way to go. Super simple and super strong. I've also been hearing good stuff about the Grizzly lockers for the rear. I like the idea of a locker in the rear instead of a spool. The spool will make the front end push in corners.
 
Sounds like I need to yank the rear spool and put it up front. Here is my favorite Steve McQueen quote... "Oversteer (Sliding the rear) scares passengers... Understeer (Pushing) scares drivers"! :D Oh well, I like a little excitement.
 
I never liked having a locker in the front of my buggy, steering SUCKED. Even after I put an ARB in the rear it didn't turn worth a crap. That may have been because there was not much weight on the front tires, and the fact that Toy axles don't turn as sharp as a D60. That was with a lockrite in the front.
 
Imo, spool up front for most of the courses ECORS sets up equals a lot of three point turns. .
Only if you cant get front wheel drive only. Depends 100% on how your vehicle is set up...if you add cutting brakes to the mix you can out maneuver anyone.
 
Only if you cant get front wheel drive only. Depends 100% on how your vehicle is set up...if you add cutting brakes to the mix you can out maneuver anyone.

This is true, but making the turn in one shot without throwing it in fwd or trying to oversteer around is almost always going to be fastest. I've been passed and I've seen plenty of others passed in this same situation. That's at least why I went with an ARB. Being that it's a scout on fullwidths, cutting brakes are probably going to be the best option.
 
As I sit here healing from 4 hernia surgeries (y'all boys don't over do it and end up like this), thinking outside the box.

Why not run a spool in front with pucks, then you can vary per course? Fast and wide open, 1 puck; slow and climby, 2 pucks? Is this even feasible for this type racing?

Spool and one puck you know which one WILL DIG.
 
so if i understand this right. the fast guys shift the tranfercase to frt. only and steer with the cutting brakes (rear axle only) for the sharpest manuvers? Done at speed then shift back to 4wd and proceed with the hammer down or climb what's now in front of you.
 
As I sit here healing from 4 hernia surgeries (y'all boys don't over do it and end up like this), thinking outside the box.

Why not run a spool in front with pucks, then you can vary per course? Fast and wide open, 1 puck; slow and climby, 2 pucks? Is this even feasible for this type racing?

Spool and one puck you know which one WILL DIG.

Glad you made it through your surgery! Getting old aint for sissies, is it brother?
You come up with some great ideas, so quit putting them on here! :D Tell me about it Sunday when I see ya'!:)
 
so if i understand this right. the fast guys shift the tranfercase to frt. only and steer with the cutting brakes (rear axle only) for the sharpest manuvers? Done at speed then shift back to 4wd and proceed with the hammer down or climb what's now in front of you.
I never shift to front only during a race. 4wd all race.
 
We front dig sometimes during races but only for really tight turns. Most of the time a simple yank of the cutting breaks will do it, but Chris does have branik high clearance shafts.
 
As I sit here healing from 4 hernia surgeries (y'all boys don't over do it and end up like this), thinking outside the box.

Why not run a spool in front with pucks, then you can vary per course? Fast and wide open, 1 puck; slow and climby, 2 pucks? Is this even feasible for this type racing?

Spool and one puck you know which one WILL DIG.
Seems like that would make it pull to one side, and more likely to break an axle. I don't see any advantages to that over an open diff.
 
For sharp turns I would pop my front output into neutral (D300) on the fly, turn deep and gas the rear around. Remember the hairpin at Spartanburg last season? My 109" WB MJ was able to one shot the turn every time.
I rocked a Lockrite in my 60 front last season
 
I've only raced bikes in the woods so I'm behind on going fast in 4wd, unless you count the high schools years and contest to get accross our old stomping grounds as fast as you could and then race to town to cruise all night.
Anyways seems being able to keep it light in the back and sling it around at speed would be optimum. Anybody play with slight gearing differences to make one end pull quicker. A slightly higher front in my head translates to faster turning responce on the ground, in effect dragging the front around faster than the rear can push you through the turn.
 
I never shift to front only during a race. 4wd all race.

Agreed, Travis turned me onto the spool up front, we were skeptical but with full hydro I never felt like I had to pull the rear out, 4wd the whole time and she steered great even on a few technical hairpins in the rocks. Highly recommended...can't beat a $150 indestructible part :beer:...got an ARB/compressor for sale if your interested though lol
 
Spool front.
Selectable rear.
Cutting brakes.

Learn to drive that combination and you'll be set up just like the fastest people in this sport.

Order it all from me and I'll tell you how to drive it too.:D

Will fawking gets around some corners, too. I was watching a couple of the hairpins in Auburn, guys having to 3-point and other nonsense... Will would slide the rear around with the cutting brakes and keep rolling. :beer:
 
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