Brake Calliper issue?

ghost

ghost

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2006
Location
Hartsville/Camden,SC
Not sure what I have going on. Saturday at URE after moving through the trails pretty quick and braking more then I usually do for the water bars I noticed a smell I had never smelt from my jeep. I noticed when I stopped for lunch at the work day my passenger rear rotor area was smoking. Only the passenger was hot. I mean it was so hot I could not touch it and even the heat was transferred to the the wheel area and leaf spring. When I got home I washed it down good to try and see better but brakes other than bleeding I've never messed with. Hung up caliper maybe? Or just one caliper working? Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot this would be greatly appreciated. If it matters it's a D60 with lugnut disk conversion done a few years ago. So that is a Chevy caliper? Thanks.
 
Stuck caliper, I change mine almost yearly after it sits for a while. Pretty common for those calipers when they sit and rust.

I’ve had mine so hot one day from this it boiled the fluid, had to clamp off the line and pull the bleeder to get out with the other 3 calipers working.

If you drive frequently it will keep the pistons moving in the bore and less prone to getting stuck like this.
 
Go ahead and replace the flex line as well. It's crazy how often a fatiqued soft line ends up the culprit after it's ruined a caliper or two.
 
I figured it was the caliper getting stuck. Last year or the year before I put braided lines on it after toasting one in Harlan. Thanks.
 
If it's a floating caliper, check, clean, and lube the slide pins the caliper rides on. Those are often overlooked during a brake job, but I've seen several seize up on the pins and wear the inside pad faster than the outer. Brakes look good from an external inspection. Pull the caliper, and the inside pad is down to the rivets!
 
catfishblues said:
If it's a floating caliper, check, clean, and lube the slide pins the caliper rides on. Those are often overlooked during a brake job, but I've seen several seize up on the pins and wear the inside pad faster than the outer. Brakes look good from an external inspection. Pull the caliper, and the inside pad is down to the rivets!
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Thanks when I pull them apart of going to Broken Nut I'll check that too. that was actually on the list. Check and see if they slide. My jeep gets used only a few times a year so unless I break it it pretty much gets neglected until time for the Crawl.
 
These calipers are generally pretty reliable. I have a set on my bronco that is at least 15 years old. If they get water in the brake fluid then rust can occur internally and that can cause many problem such as rust. I would flush the brake system with new fluid from an unopened bottle of brake fluid and replace the caliper. Brake fluid attracts moisture from the air. Since you have the braided stainless hoses there is no need to change them since they don't break down like rubber hoses do.
 
Will do. I figure it was my neglect the last couple trips. So when I came back she got a bath and plan is to tear into it this weekend. Thanks @GubNi! IF I ever need another disc break conversion kit you will be my first call.
 
As was said replace the calipers and the shoes as well, lube what needs lubed, flush the fluid with new, and change them both, not just the one. Sitting is the worst thing you can do, so if that tells you anything, should tell you to get it out on the trail more often!
 
So I rolled the dice and cleaned the slides. Thought that fixed it but sadly no. So anyone have a part number on this caliper?
 
Its easier to get them by application since different stores use different part numbers.

1986 Chevy K20 front with jb6 brakes
 
I found some of the bigger piston brakes but they hit. I was able to make the work better. Will fix it when I get back home.
 
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