Brake master cylinder suggestion

Jody Treadway

Jody Treadway

Croc wearing fool
Moderator
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Hendersonville, NC
My new to me Ranger truggy has an inherent brake issue, the pedal pressure sucks. If this was a Jeep, I'd throw an E350 master on it and call it a day. But Ranger brake swap tech isn't nearly as popular.

98 Ranger with power brakes, unknown master cylinder (plastic reservoir that looks OEM) Waggy front brakes and Explorer rear disc brakes. I get plenty of fluid out of the bleeders during bleeding, but the pedal takes 3 pumps to get stopping power. I think I need a master with more volume. Does anyone know what application would work?

I do have cutting brakes for what its worth also.

edit: it probably just needs an E350 master...
 
I would try changing the thermostsat:flipoff2:
 
Its the loose nut behind the wheel.
 
Jody Treadway said:
edit: it probably just needs an E350 master...
Click to expand...

Fun fact:

There's nothing special about the "E350" master cylinder. It's the same one Ford used on pretty much every F250, F350, E250, and E350 for about ten years, give or take.

I might have one in the garage somewhere, if you need a measurement on the boss at the booster and/or bolt spacing.
 
Pressure bled them tonight, no more air in the system now. There was a lot in the LR circuit. Picked up an Explorer 4 wheel disc master. Gonna install tomorrow and see
 
I've got a 90'something Ranger cab on a full size Bronco chassis with D60 front and 14 bolt rear (with discs). The stock Ranger booster and MC were not cutting it. It has been a long time, but I think the pedal was hitting the floor before it got 'tight'. I figured it wasn't moving enough volume for the larger calipers on all four corners. I ended up fitting a larger F350 booster to the firewall, which took some super long 'nut' spacers. I also used the popular 78 Mercury Grand Marquis MC (I think that is the one, been a long time). Much better after doing that. I think I had to cut and lengthen the MC pushrod by the same amount for which I had to space the booster off the firewall. I think it was a few inches. Maybe that will help. I can provide pictures if necessary.
 
For anyone else having this problem in the future you can just install residual valves on the lines and not have to replace the master. You won't get the volume from a larger master but you will get the same pedal travel. My tj had the same problem after my axle swap. Stopped fi e but pedal was on the floor. Installed 2# residual valves in the lines and no more problems.
 
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