break 22R balancer bolt w the starter?

I've used a chain wrench on the pully before. Never tried the starter though.
 
Thanks, I just got a 92 2wd that runs nice/quiet. I went to change the oil and found one of the bottom oilpump bolts loose and leaning on the back of the balancer where it had wore a small groove around the pulley. I was able to pull it out upwards. Some dumass apparently forgot to put the bolt in, found out after it was assembled and said phukit. The factory bolt is too long to clear the pulley and get in the hole, so he got a shorter stainless bolt, wrapped tinfoil around the threads and stuck it in there, it does not reach the threads in the block. It was done about 7 years ago @ a shop when my BIL owned the truck. Does anyone know if that hole is straight through to the crankcase? there is fresh oil all over the motor though I'm sure the V cover is leaking also.
 
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If you have an impact then the crank bolt should be no problem. If I can remember correctly the oil pump has some bolts that thread into the cover and some that run all the way to the block. It's been awhile since I did the timing cover gaskets so I could be wrong. If it is leaking check the bolt under the dist. gear, it'll cause it to leak like no tomorrow.
 
I don't want to pull the radiator and don't have a real impact. I'm guessing the head was not pulled when the timing chain was done by the shop. I did this w my own truck years ago and fabed a gasket to replace the piece of the headgasket between the head and timing cover. That actually worked, no oil leaks. I'm also guessing the front seal was not replaced and the bolts in the cover that need sealant on the threads were just reinstalled w/o being cleaned and coated w sealer.This shop in west raleigh also screwed me decades ago when I took my wrecked truck to them after a wreck (not my fault) and did cheesy repairs. I found out later they did most all the claims work for the at fault drivers insurance co. and my truck probably should have been totaled :kaioken:
 
When I did mine I just used RTV Black at the top of the cover. The starter truck should work on the 22R, I did it in my 5VZ when I changed wp and tb. Basically do it how you described in the op.
 
Yes, it will work. Done it multiple times.
One note, be careful and only bump it. If you don't remove the radiator, there's not a lot of space to fit your ratchet, and it dosn't take many turns for it to be pushed backwards into the radiator, leaving a big dent in the fins and you unable to get the wrench out.
Ask me how I know...
But based on what you've said - really you need to plan on taking that timing cover off, cleaning it all up and starting fresh w/ new seals etc.
 
btw there's another trick. The "rope trick".
Pull a spark plug. Get a long bit of thin poly (non-hairy) rope. Feed a bunch of it down into the cylinder. Be sure to leave some hanging out so you can pull it out ;-)
Now use the ratchet to turn the engine counter clockwise. Eventually that cylinder will get stopped by the rope and the crank wil lstop moving. A little profanity and a cheater bar will break the bolt loose.
Same works for tightening.
 
If you want to spend $60, you can get a proper tool to bolt to the pulley to lock the pulley to the frame with a pipe or breaker bar depending on the brand of crank tool. Then you can use whatever you want to get the bolt free.
I've got one for my pair of Subarus and it was worth every penny of the $35 I paid for it. Makes things a snap without worrying about destroying something accidentally.
 
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