Briggs and Stratton gurus.....

mommucked

Endeavoring to persevere
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Location
Rural Apex n.c.
My 12 yo, 240 hrs. Craftsman 24hp Intek is missing and stumbling on start up. I noticed it missing last week when I throttled down after mowing the backyard. It was worse when I cranked it and drove it out of the shed to work on it. All the valves/rockers needed to be tightened up a bit, and new plugs but that did'nt help at all. The oil is clean but smells of gas. I smelled gas when I shut it off the last few times and the carb. has never been rebuilt nor the fuel pump replaced. Any troubleshooting advice is very welcome.
 
You could try cleaning and rebuilding it depending on which carb is on it, but from my experience, it usually gets replaced. What's the engine model number and spec code? Valves should be set at .005" intake/.007" exhaust COLD, and be sure to use ONLY a Champion RC12YC or NGK equivalent. Be sure that the anti-dieseling solenoid on the carb is functioning (should be able to feel it click when you turn on the key), and contaminated (gas-diluted) oil could eventually find its way into the intake via the crankcase breather, so be mindful of oil levels. Lastly, those engines don't like contaminated oil, so get that stuff out ASAP.
 
model 445667
type 0413 E4 or E1?
code 050608yg

I pulled the NGK FR4s, one was a bit glazed. I went to the wrong place tues. and they only had the autolite plugs. I set all the valves @ 005 per some chart on B&S website. My owners manuals were apparently put in the trash by an compulsive organizer/clean freak I married. Is it worth rebuilding the carb or better to just buy a new one? I've changed the oil/filter every year and plugs almost yearly. My yard is far from flat and I've worried about oil pick up/starvation on the steeper slopes, I'm really surprised the motor and auto trans. have lasted this long working hard mowing grass and mowing/blowing leaves every fall. I had a push rod fall out years ago and never knew it till I was done mowing. Put it back and adjusted them all and it's run fine since then until last week. It is not smoking at all.
 
Needle hanging in the carb. Fuel shut off solenoid is EPA crap. Clean the jets and passages, replace needle and bowl gasket and you'll be good to go.
 
I was quoted $90 for a kit that had to be ordered, and another shop had one in stock for $89. I can get a new carb on ebay for that price shipped. new carb on the way. thanks for the advice
 
Tried installing the new carb and it seems the flange on the plastic intake is warped. I can see daylight between the bores w the carb installed and visually see a curve in the mounting surface looking down it. Googling, it seems it's a common issue and I'm assuming it's been leaking for years. I tried to take the corners down w a file but it still has a curve in the center of the flange. Could a thicker/crushable gasket be added to the stack that came w the carb to close the gap or should I just buy another intake and do this all over again in a few years? Am I supposed to or should I paint the flange or mating gasket w high tack or another sealer to try to seal the cracks?
 
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Tried installing the new carb and it seems the flange on the plastic intake is warped. I can see daylight between the bores w the carb installed and visually see a curve in the mounting surface looking down it. Googling, it seems it's a common issue and I'm assuming it's been leaking for years. I tried to take the corners down w a file but it still has a curve in the center of the flange. Could a thicker/crushable gasket be added to the stack that came w the carb to close the gap or should I just buy another intake and do this all over again in a few years? Am I supposed to or should I paint the flange or mating gasket w high tack or another sealer to try to seal the cracks?

It's normal. Even the newest engines still have this gap. Run it, then never buy another B&S engine.
 
After more research it appears the small raised circles around the tubes seal the carb gaskets even with the gap you can see through between them. I put it back together w new fuel pump,oil/filter,air cleaner,pre filter and plugs I will soon replace and it runs good w a bit of noise I think is from the valve lash, I set them all @ .005 and apparently the exhaust should be 007. Did a few passes in the dark and put it back in the stable so's not to piss off the neighbors. I'm pretty satisfied w the engine, it's been rode hard and put up wet a many times, a month or so ago I dragged a 5' water tank aerator up down and sideways all over my yard, put too much water in it at first and then drained most of it out when it spun out on hills. I think from now on I'll limit my running time to 30 mins, rest and run again instead of 45/60 mins. at a time..........and try not to mow grass and blow/mow leaves when I'm drunk and don't give a shit :driver: thanks again for the advice
 
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