Build my Wrangler for me.

You guys are great. I looked at a few parts today and I am pretty sure that I am going to buy them. (Just need to get the OK from the boss) Here is the parts list let me know what you think. Keep in mind they are used but its a great price.

1999 Ford Explorer 8.8 rear axle, disc brakes Detroit Locker
4.88 Yukon gears custom diff guard , 31 spline axle shafts with spare
shafts for both sides
1995 Wrangler Dana 30 front axle, 4.88 Yukon gears LockRite locker
PosiLock axle disconnect

Both axles set up for stock Wrangler spring over installation

5 x 35x12.50 BFG MT (severe trail use, 90% tread) mounted on aluminum
Gambler rims
Tom Woods slip yoke eliminator tailshaft kit

The front end would not be my first choice but the way I see it with the stuff I pull out I will have spare parts J.I.K.
Thanks
Guy
 
You need a winch!!!!!

All that lift lockers gears are no good if you are stuck on a rock or in muc and no way to get out!!


And with all that upgrade, you'll be very tempted to get somewhere that will require a winch. Trust me, winching your vehicle out with a HiLift works, but its very time comsuming and a pain in the a$$, especially if its muddy and the Jack gets full of dirt/mud.

Rob
 
I am picking the parts up at the end of next week and will start installing next weekend.
- Is there anything out of the norm I should look for when installing?
- I have been told the steering will rub under flex with the SOA, can I do anything about it?
- I will look around for a winch. Any deals out there?
All you guys that offered help... Get ready I will be calling you.
Thanks for all the input!!!
Guy
 
Rob is right. A winch will get you out of most situations. It will also give you more confidence (perhaps too much sometimes). But for most of us the key is to build our rigs to where the need for a winch is lessened, but,....we still have one.
 
Yeah, he needs a winch. :)

Anyway, you'll usually find that you will use the winch more on other vehicles than your own (at least I have).

As for the steering rubbing the springs, you should be ok for the most part. it won't rub much, but if it does, you'll need a new custom tierod mounted higher or with a small kink in it to clear the springs.


Installation tips: when doing the front SOA, might as well make it a shackle reversal, it'll ride better on the road and when doing this, watch the length of the driveshaft. The front axle will now move back under compression and if the DS is too long, it will push it into the transfercase and possibly damage the transfercase. FYI



Rob
 
I noticed you are buying a dana 30? You already have one under your jeep so why don't you do a SOA to it and buy a lockright. Forgive me if you already looked into it and found it cheaper to buy that one. A winch is a good piece of equipment to have and make sure you buy a good one I've heard many bad comments on some of the cheaper ones. If I was building your jeep i'd buy what ever I found the best deal in. If it was a winch this week and axles the next. I don't really think it matters what order you do it in. If your going to buy a winch I'd also buy skid pans and a whole bunch of protection. If it's not lifted it will hit alot easier.
 
Fryedaddy,
You are correct about already having the dana 30. I just found all this in a package and all together it's a great deal.(the guy just switched to full lenght axels) I will just use the 30 for spare parts.
Rob,
What is a shackle reversal and what does it do?
Thanks
Guy
 
A shackle reversal will move the shackles from in front of the leafs to the back of the leafs on the front axle. Having the shackles on the front of the axle is not as good as the back because they will unload going uphill. Others will be able to explain the qualities better but that is a short def.
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
Having the shackles on the front of the axle is not as good as the back because they will unload going uphill.
Click to expand...

Welllll.. not necessarily... think about the direction the torque twists the pinion under throttle going forward, and what that can do for the suspension.. I've Had to drive my rig in FWD only both with the shackle in the front and in the rear, and the differences are very noticable in those situations, that are somewhat masked when in 4wd...

I did my SR primarily for approach clearance.. I was constantly smacking my shackle on the rocks I was approaching, and getting hung up.

Also, with the shackle in the front, bending/kinking leaves is very easy to do.

SR's do ride nicer on the road with the shackle in the rear, but also require a long-slip driveshaft if you've got a flexy suspension, whereas a front shackle doesn't.

Just some food for thought. ;)
 
well, hes gonna prob. need a new front driveshaft (or modified stock one) anyway with all that lift, so might as well upgrade/modify with the SR.

I know you will get better approach angle with the SR. If you drive it on the road you will notice a considerable imporved ride with the SR. I know its not you are building it for, but you gotta get to the trail and it may be your daily driver???

I don't remember everything about the SR cause I don't have leaf springs anymore, but I've heard a lot of good stuff about it in the past and loved mine when I had it on my CJ.

Rob
 
OK I'm sold on the SR. Is there a kit to buy or is this a cut and weld a few mounts kind of thing? Pictures would be nice...
Thanks
Guy
P.S.Going to pick up the parts tomorrow.
 
Yeah, just move them from the front to the back. You should be fine. However, take not of the angle of the springs and try to keep that the same. You may need to space one of the mounts on either end of the frame to get the springs to set at about the same angle/levelness. catch my drift?

Take a look at places like MORE or Tomken, they sell kits for it and also have pice online of what it looks like.
 
if you get rid of the slip yoke, you should not need to lower the transfercase. You will ned a good CV rear shaft with a decent amount of travel in the slip yoke.

Rob
 
I picked up the axles, wheels and tires today! I need to get shock mounts(to weld on), new u-bolts a drop pitman arm and shocks.(know of any deals?) Then its time to go to work. I will keep you guys updated on the progress, thanks for all your help.
Guy
 
UPDATE!
The axles are in, drive line is complete except for the rear cv drive shaft that will be here next week. I'm almost ready for my test drive.
I don't have the shocks hooked up yet and the springs seem to be fairly week. I am worried about axle wrap. What would you do? I have been told to use a full length AAL spring or add a traction bar to the rear axle.
How do you measure for correct shock length? I have a 1" mount that I am going to weld to the axles and I am planning on using the stock top mount.
Thanks
Guy
 
traction bars and I did not read the whole thread but if you are spring over axle then MORE sale antiwrap perchs for the springs. They will not completely stop axle wrap but those combined with good traction bars and you should be good.
 
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