Builder question...

RobMcBee

RobMcBee

Slow n easy when you're not gettin greasy....
Joined
Jan 12, 2009
Location
Fort Mill / Indian Land SC
Reading another post about garage heating got me thinking about insulating the walls on mine. I have a lil problem though. My studs are 12 inches on center. Do they make a 12" batt or do I need to squeeze in 16? I was always told if you compress insulation it looses its R value. Spray in is out of the question its too damn expensive.

Next question, why would they have built it wit 12"oc walls? It's a 24x30 with a small apt above. It has a double 12" LVL running the 24' length and 2x8 joist running the 15' from each side of it. Was this done just to support the upstairs?

Thanks
 
It's 2x4... I was just curious, I've never seen it done like this. Even in multiple level houses. I'm not complaining, I'm glad they didn't cut corners... Well at least not in th framing lol
 
Or - buy 24" insulation and cut it down the middle.

Is other stuff about the garage overbuilt? My brother did that on a small garage he built b/c he wanted to hang some long shelves that would hold heavy stuff. it added very little to the total cost. It can depend on the sizes specs and how the wall lengths end up relative to one another, sometimes (lets say a 10' wall) you're going to end up w/ a short space on either end anyway so you may even out the spacing and only add 1 or 2.
 
^^^^That kind of thinking makes it a pain when you have to cut the first and last sheet of plywood because it doesn't start out correctly.
 
Like said above get an insulation knife and cut down something wider. That knife will make cutting it down a lot easier.
 
GotWood said:
^^^^That kind of thinking makes it a pain when you have to cut the first and last sheet of plywood because it doesn't start out correctly.
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Not following you on this. It's the exact same Sheetrock sheets, and the length is still divisible in feet so you end up with studs on the ends. For a 4' span, you just have 5 instead of 4, etc. For that 10' example, normally you' have to split a 2' bit across 3 studs that are spaced the with a 16" and then a little 8". Instead it's just 12-12.

yes, it only makes sense/works out in certain circumstances.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Not following you on this. It's the exact same Sheetrock sheets, and the length is still divisible in feet so you end up with studs on the ends. For a 4' span, you just have 5 instead of 4, etc. For that 10' example, normally you' have to split a 2' bit across 3 studs that are spaced the with a 16" and then a little 8". Instead it's just 12-12.
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You shouldn't have a short end on both sides. Just one lay out from one side start with a full or half and then on the end side cut what is needed. From what I understand you saying is your trying to get both end sections to be the same basically creating double the waste and work for no reason
 
Loganwayne said:
You shouldn't have a short end on both sides. Just one lay out from one side start with a full or half and then on the end side cut what is needed. From what I understand you saying is your trying to get both end sections to be the same basically creating double the waste and work for no reason
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Who said anything about a short on both ends? I said either end.
I'm just saying that in some cases it's only barely more wood to do the framing that way. If you're not an idiot about it the wallboard will work out the same.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Who said anything about a short on both ends? I said either end.
I'm just saying that in some cases it's only barely more wood to do the framing that way. If you're not an idiot about it the wallboard will work out the same.
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Sorry misread either as both as I was reading it.

In that case ya small stuff wouldn't make much of a difference but full house it would. We've started adding an extra jack and stud to both sides of every window and exterior door stiffens it all up
 
broncosbybart said:
By (today's) code, a 2x4 wall over 10' tall needs to be 12"o.c. See this often in garages.
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Thanks guys, yeah I forgot to mention I have 10' ceilings. I'm guessing that's my answer.

I'm gonna price 24" insulation. I don't mind cutting it, I'm cheap, and I'm sure a special order of 12" would cost more.

The framing on the garage seems really well done, it's the other stuff like an improperly sloped slab and some shoddy wiring that have bothered me. I get water in my garage ever time it rains.
 
If 12" oc is code now, I would think you'd be able to get 12" insulation without special ordering...
 
Good point, I know Lowe's doesn't have it, probably gonna have to find a builder supply that sales to the public...
 
If 16" is the cheapest I wouldn't worry about squeezing it down a little, it's just a garage so it's not like you'd be loosing a whole lot. Only 2" on each side.
 
We have a spray foam fleet we service in Boone. They sprayed a portion of our shop which isn't heated. I'll never use any other type of insulation. It's good stuff!
 
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