Burning Oil...READ. Not o-rings 7.3L

yea, I'm rockin out a solid 13 mpg. SUCKISH! I'm hoping the trans and the bigger tars will help out with that. 65mph=2600rpm
 
yea, I'm rockin out a solid 13 mpg. SUCKISH! I'm hoping the trans and the bigger tars will help out with that. 65mph=2600rpm

Don't be so sure my buddy put some 22.5's on his 97 Dodge dually before it had 35's mud tires on stock dually rims, went from 13 mpg with the 35's and 11 with the 22.5s we put a bigger turbo on and turned up the fuel and an exhaust for more power and if he didn't dragrace everytime he left from a stand still it would probably get better but those 22.5s are just so dang heavy it just takes more to turn em and hes got the aluminums for all 6 not even the heavy steels on the inside of the dually.
 
you must have missed the part about the fact I have 4.88s and 31's! They will significantly drop my rpms. I'm hoping to knock it down to somewhere in the 3.90 range
 
I've got steel 19.5's with 225's on it and 4.88's. I turn 2600+ rpms at 65mph.

I'm going to aluminum 22.5's with a bigger tire. I will WAY fewer RPMS with a tire/wheel combo that is comparable in weight.
 
Yeah man I read the whole thing I know you got 4.88s and all but im just telling u from my experience and my buddy who did kinda did the same deal ur planning that generally bigger diameter tires especially heavy ones= worse mpg we aren't saying it wont get better just not from what we've seen and my buds got 410s in that dually and yeah it turns less rpms now but he still gets 2mpg worse he said it don't ride as good is harder to stop and the tires cost an arm and a leg, but hey they do look sweet no argument there, just do some research but I don't think that is your best option for fuel mileage.
 
Have you ever ridden in a 550? I don't seriously think the ride can get much worse lol. I've got 19.5's already(stock) with MASSIVE brakes.
 
Yeah I've rode in 1 and I've seen the brakes on 1 just cause I'm a Dodge man don't mean I haven't worked on or drove anything else lol, and your braking will be affected maybe not as much as my friends flatbed but it will happen since the tires are taller like holding a brick close to your body compared to holding it with an outstretched arm, just requires more effort. I just think that for the money and since you want to anyway switching to the cummins will definately give better mpg and IMO a better engine if you've decided to keep the weakstroke lol, I would think regearing down to 410s would be the best thing to do you can still tow whatever you want (in our dodges we can anyway) and it would lower your rpms and be alot cheaper than all those 22.5 tires you'll buy since 2 front "steer" tires are $1000 + according to my friend then you gotta buy the 4 rears lol just talking about stuff that maybe you haven't considered.
 
Already priced the tires..I don't know where you're buyin 22.5s but I've already found all 6 of mine for under 1200
 
Already priced the tires..I don't know where you're buyin 22.5s but I've already found all 6 of mine for under 1200
Like I said going by what my buddy told me and 1200 is mighty expensive considering I bought my 18" rims and tires mounted and balanced on the truck for 1400, and they werent cheap no names it was Gear Alloy rims and Nitto dune grapplers, I'm just saying and I get 18 mpg all day long on a stock truck. But as I said before the 22.5s do look sweet but I don't think they will help the problem your trying to address.
 
so because your one "buddy" got worse mileage switching to 22.5's, that now applies to all scenarios? while your buddy's rpm's might have dropped also, it's hardly comparable considering his 4.10's/35 inch tires to this truck's 4.88's/31's. lowering rpm's alone isn't really the important part, it's where they're at currently and where they're going to be after. the truck in this thread is pretty much redlined at highway speeds. dropping the rpms back into a normal cruising range will help significantly. not only at highway speeds, but around town also since the truck will be able to spend more time in the powerband and shift less.

he's already said the static weight of the new wheel/tire combo is comparable to the existing. while it's likely the 22.5's will have more weight further from the hub (thus making them act heavier than the 19.5's when in motion), i'd say it's a pretty fat chance it will overcome the gains realized from getting the rpms down. conceding any additional rotational mass at all is only due to the larger overall diameter of the combo. while it may be the culprit a lot of times, larger rim diameter alone equaling more mass can't really be used as a standard rule. for example, my personal truck has a set of 24's and the stock 16's that i use. both have tires with nearly identical diameters of a little more than 34 inches and tread widths around 12 inches. overall weight is comparable. the 16's get a consistent 1-1.5mpg worse than the 24's. certainly there's other factors to consider such as tread pattern, wheel design, etc. but the bulk of that can definitely be attributed to the additional rubber on the 16's weighing more than the additional metal on the 24's. it takes a tire almost 2 inches less in diameter on the 16's to get the same mpg as the 24's.

also, if ~$200 per tire is expensive, you'll have to share with the rest of us where you're shopping for tires. besides, you're comparing apples to oranges again. 6 medium/heavy duty 22.5 inch tires only VS. 4 light duty 18 inch tires and wheels...??
 
so because your one "buddy" got worse mileage switching to 22.5's, that now applies to all scenarios? while your buddy's rpm's might have dropped also, it's hardly comparable considering his 4.10's/35 inch tires to this truck's 4.88's/31's. lowering rpm's alone isn't really the important part, it's where they're at currently and where they're going to be after. the truck in this thread is pretty much redlined at highway speeds. dropping the rpms back into a normal cruising range will help significantly. not only at highway speeds, but around town also since the truck will be able to spend more time in the powerband and shift less.

he's already said the static weight of the new wheel/tire combo is comparable to the existing. while it's likely the 22.5's will have more weight further from the hub (thus making them act heavier than the 19.5's when in motion), i'd say it's a pretty fat chance it will overcome the gains realized from getting the rpms down. conceding any additional rotational mass at all is only due to the larger overall diameter of the combo. while it may be the culprit a lot of times, larger rim diameter alone equaling more mass can't really be used as a standard rule. for example, my personal truck has a set of 24's and the stock 16's that i use. both have tires with nearly identical diameters of a little more than 34 inches and tread widths around 12 inches. overall weight is comparable. the 16's get a consistent 1-1.5mpg worse than the 24's. certainly there's other factors to consider such as tread pattern, wheel design, etc. but the bulk of that can definitely be attributed to the additional rubber on the 16's weighing more than the additional metal on the 24's. it takes a tire almost 2 inches less in diameter on the 16's to get the same mpg as the 24's.

also, if ~$200 per tire is expensive, you'll have to share with the rest of us where you're shopping for tires. besides, you're comparing apples to oranges again. 6 medium/heavy duty 22.5 inch tires only VS. 4 light duty 18 inch tires and wheels...??
-Yeah 1 buddy, try 3 and all three got worse mileage one who changed from stock 19.5's
-Like I said more weight further from the hub (like you said so it agrees with you) per my brick in your hand analogy.
-And I never said that larger wheels and tires "always lead to worse mpg" and I never said that it definately wont work I said It might but it may not.
-So pretty much you said what I said just in a longer more technical way to show how much you know and how little I do and didn't really add anything to the conversation.
 
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