buying a truck

1977chevy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Location
Rock Hill
Hey guys, looking to buy a older higher milage diesel, leaning towards about a 2000-2002 dodge cummins 3500 dually 4x4. anything i need to look for? Anything to steer clear from? i've found two in the area that seem to be in good shape, both are just under 200k miles for around 11k. Does this seem too high? Any help would be great. Thanks in advance
 
Stay away from "53 blocks" this is actually important I've seen one cracked in person, google it

auto trannys suck in dodges unless they're built all to heck not just "rebuilt"

6 speeds are better/more trouble free than 5 speeds

idk pricing seems a tad high I bought three dodges in that year/mileage range, two duallys one SRW, back in 08/09 for at or under 10k
 
thanks man, well guess i should keep looking then both are auto's and i have no clue bout the blocks, how would i find out? can i tell by the vin?
 
1977chevy said:
thanks man, well guess i should keep looking then both are auto's and i have no clue bout the blocks, how would i find out? can i tell by the vin?
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Its a Big casting number on the block, if I remember right its on the front of the block just above the oil pan line kinda under where the power steering pump is, is where the number would be casted in, but def google it there are numerous articles about it, heck I even got a thing in the mail where Cummins/dodge one or the other had lost a class action lawsuit about it and as someone who owned a truck I was entitled to compensation if I had a cracked block bla bla its a legit concern on the 53 block and like I said saw it happen first hand to a buddy water jackets on the driver side are real thin and prone to cracking on 53 Blocks kinda under the exhaust manifold
 
and I mean on the auto thing, some dudes will argue all day long they are fine but I just see too many of em fail all the time with what I do, plus anything I drive likes to find ways to fall apart or break so I like to play it safe

on top of that anyway chicks Dig Stick Shifts . . Bang Gears, Screw Slushbox's . . In diesel Daily driver type truck at least . . but If your planning on doing any kind of competitive pulling you'll need a built auto, or a heavy as you know what southbend and a special touch on the clutch
 
Thats cool man thanks a lot for the info. Does anyone know if that can be determined by the vin# in anyway? This truck is a pretty decent drive away and i doubt a salesman is gonna climb under the truck to search for this number. Also, ive seen a black one dodge 3500 on outer banks craigslist, anyone know anything about it? I text the guy but dont get any replys. Maybe he thinks im a spammer.
 
the 1998.5 - 2002 Cummins Rams use the VP44 injection pump, which are very expensive to replace when they go out. They will die if the factory lift pump is not replaced. If the PO has already added an aftermarket lift pump setup, you should be in good shape.
 
yea dodges are priced high, and hold there value great anyways. pricing sound normal to me. back in mid 09, I bought a 98.5 2500 Cummins, 5spd extended cab shortbed. Had 232k miles on it, and KBB was 11,900. I got it for $10k, put 6k miles on it, and sold it fro $10k. IMO, a person is better off getting one with some miles on it, you know atleast most of the big maintenance items have been replaced, especially teh injection pump
 
Thanks for all the help yall, if someone has a min could yall che k the outer banks craigslist 2001 dodge 3500 diesel black and let me know how it sounds or if anyone knows anything about this truck. Thanks again
 
My 2000 just rolled 304k miles a few weeks ago. Pulling my buddy's lifted Powerstroke Excursion on a 24ft gooseneck when it rolled 304k and it's still running strong.
 
the truck will fall apart around the motor.
that one in OB Id check for rust
 
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