Cam shaft in 95 exploder

spykosshow

spykosshow

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
Anyone changed out a cam in a 95 ford exploder? The dealership is telling me that there's too much slop in it, and therefore the cam sensor can't get a good reading and is making the engine cut off at times. They said 350 in parts and like 8 or 900 in labor.

I'd like to tackle this myself if I can to save on that labor.
 
Are they quoting you for a cam change for 8-900??
What do they say is the reason for the slop?
 
cam

There is no way you could have slop in a cam. The slop (timing scattering) is from the timing chain. Is it the 3.8 or 5.0?
 
It's the 3.8 I guess, It's the 6 cylinder. I talked to my friend and he said that it might be the one where the timing chain is on the rear of the motor?!

The dealership said it's the cam assembly that needs to be replaced. It's throwing a code 214, which another mechanic said leads to exactly what the dealership was saying.
 
The SOHC motor is the one with a timing chain on the rear of the motor. It didn't come out until 97. Yours is a pushrod motor.
 
'95 Exploder would be 4.0V6. It could also be a bad sensor and not the cam. IIRC the sensor is around $200 +/- you might want to try that first. How many miles on on the engine?

<><Fish
 
FishHunt said:
'95 Exploder would be 4.0V6. It could also be a bad sensor and not the cam. IIRC the sensor is around $200 +/- you might want to try that first. How many miles on on the engine?

<><Fish
Click to expand...


It's only got like ~130 on it. I'll see about getting a new sensor and see if that does the trick. Is this a part I'd want to get at the dealer or would a carquest/napa part work just as well?
 
your getting hosed- it is either the sensor, or the wiring or possibly the PCM. Of course that would take some diagnosistic work which the dealer isn't real good at. Not to mention this is a 95, the dealer is more acustomed to 2005's at the latest. Is this OBD II and need to be inspected but can't do to check engine light. if the cam lobes were worn it would run like crap, if the chain was worn allowing slop in the cam gear it would make noise, have driveabilty issues due to timing. other mechanic who said that code lead to the same thing is smoking a peace pipe at no point in time would that code lead me to cam replacement. How does it run besides randomly cutting off. Call me if you want me to look at it # is below.
 
It runs like a 95 explorer with 130k on the clock. It's not rough by any means and it's not perfect either. No noises like chain slop or anything. The second mechanic was talking about how this year they had both OBD-I and OBD-II.
 
all 95's should have obd-1 but i could be wrong, cause all 96 and ups are obd-2
but like i said could be wrong, but yea the dealer is definetly gettin you.
 
American cars that are 95's are usually OBDII escpecially fords the importers did not switch until 96. however you are right if its a 95 even if its obdII or not only requires a safety inspection. The funny thing is the dealer if they are going to put a cam in it $900 isn't that bad of a dealer price. puttin a cam in a pushrod motor in the vehicle is a pain in the ass anyway you look it.
 
Well I had the CEL come on last night when I was driving around, and it came on right after it felt like the motor misfired for a second. I think I'm going to go buy a new cam sensor and hope it fixes it.
 
spykosshow said:
Well I had the CEL come on last night when I was driving around, and it came on right after it felt like the motor misfired for a second. I think I'm going to go buy a new cam sensor and hope it fixes it.
Click to expand...

Well they did circle the problem and highlight it in blue.:shaking: Shoulda know that from day one.:lol:

But seriously, hope you get the problem fixed with the cam sensor. Good luck!
 
Looking at rock auto you can get just the sensor for like 40 bucks. Would that suffice? or do I have to buy the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PC137 More Info {CAMSHAFT SENSOR}
INTEGRAL STYLE
 
So i've come to realize that it only shuts off when you're rolling to a stop, and you're under ~5mph and then you try and accelerate again. That help anyone in the diagnosis? I'm thinking that it could be the entire cam position sensor assembly.
 
Back
Top